Frozenforge

The square type trailer spindles rated for a 3500lb axle fit very nicely in 2x2x1/4 wall square tubing. Its a tight enough fit you need to radius the corners and grind a groove to accommodate the weld seam on the tubing. With a couple of holes in the tubing to make rosette welds and then welding the end up it is very secure. These come in a 4 on 4.5 and 5 on 4.5 bolt patterns.

Go get a 50 lb scale for fishing.

Let alone how that steel would feel on a -20'F morning, although that hasn't been an issue the last two winters!

Weight is in hundred weight. 227 lb, approx 103 kg. Not any way to narrow the year down other than approximate date ranges. Like Thomas said made some time after 1910. Great condition!

That would work out to 183lb. Has a price been mentioned yet? Will the owner let you scrape some of the paint off to do a rebound test? The weld is not a good sign but it may not have damaged it too badly. If the price is within your range it still might be worth looking at!

Thats the list for Hay Budden S/Ns, 1912 by the Trenton list not that it really matters

Im pretty sure its a peter wright which woud be a good anvil. Bring a bathroom scale cause those dimensions would make it in the 160 to 180 lb range. Most people are way off when estimating weight of anvils and when usually pricing is per lb it becomes significant. In case your unfamiliar with the weight markings Peter Wright used it is the english hundred weight system. There should be 3 numbers stamped below the logo. The first number is 112lb increments, 2nd is 28lb increments and 3rd is lbs. so if it is 170 lb you would see 1 2 2 on the side. There is usually a large space between the numbers. Best of luck and dont hesitate if it is a good one cause it wont last long!

I think it is an ASO but do a rebound test or like Jim mentioned a hardness test. The anvils that have a cast base with a steel plate usually the plate doesn't overhang both sides, I have seen where it is shifted slightly to one side or the other. Hopefully yours is a cast steel not cast iron.

Cant really tell from these photos without a little cleaning. Check the rebound, if its good clean it up and put it back to work! Bring your friends granpa over to see your setup, Im sure he would appreciate it and maybe he has some knowledge to share! When and if you clean it up get some good pictures and getting an I.D. might be possible.

I use LPS Antispatter spray, waterbased so you don't have to worry about catching on fire or oily rags to catch fire. Spray down the area and your mig nozzle. No stuck spatter and just wipes off when done.

Check the rebound, looks like its had some welding done to the face. Still be worth it if the price is right

You are one lucky man! Clean it up and send us more pictures. If you paid less than $4 per lb you got a smokin deal. Anvils that large west of the plains are few and far.

Those are handling holes. Special tongs that fit these into them to securely hold the anvil while being made.

Oh yeah. Always used to see it at the end of movies but since 2000 the M has gone away. I revisited AIA and Mr Postmans information is where I read about the M being on the 100 lb Columbians

I agree with Charlotte, loose bushings. Instead of the shaft rotating in the bushing the extra clearance allows the shaft to roll around the i.d. of the bushing causing the chatter.

I believe the bottom is a Columbian, they typically had an M on the 100 lb models. Roman numeral for 100? Maybe the top one was the 75lb and they still have the Columbian.

Wire brush it really good and start using it. You have a great starting point and when you get to a stage where you will need a radiused edge there is still alot of edges around the heel to use. With the Vulcan brand the general consensus is to avoid working any cold steel and to not really do heavy sledge work on the edges. Use it for a while and figure out if the chipped edges are a problem. I think you got it for a good price and if while you are learning you add a few chips or dents it is no big deal

Welcome Jedediah The soft brick is much more fragile, better insulator, very light. Hard is much tougher, not as good of an insulator and heavy. Often hard brick is used for the forge floor for longevity and to soft elsewhere. E. J. Bartells in Anchorage has both types, I don't know about sourcing in the valley.

Green Zombie, just for your info Mikey98118 and Frosty have years of experience with propane burners and was involved with the development and improvement of this type of burner that King of Random has posted a version of. Their suggestions are based on years of experience and experimentation. These burners will "function"within a large range of tolerances with a wide range of results in temperature and efficiency. An honest mistake I assume.

If they have to ask the question then they don't get it. I try ant not let people rent space in my head, the times that I did I never got a rent check!

That would be a Trenton, approximately made in 1948-49. The later Trentons had the N that looked like an X. A very good deal indeed. Mr Postmans research didnt really have an explanation for the X other than possibly the N stamp wore out and the X was the NeXt best thing.

Considering what abuse it was designed to withstand, tons of impact force, great amounts of abrasion makes tough as nails an understatement!

Your columbian is all cast steel. The horn is not hardened so it should be repairable if you really think you need to. Does it interfere with anything you are making?

Try sanding and polishing to a 400 grit finish then slowly heat up through the tempering colors till you see the color you like and quench just enough to stop any more heat transfering. If you dont like the color you can sand and try again. Not extremely durable but with a coat of wax it isnt too bad. You might also look into different finishes for firearms.

If needed I can round up some ppe to donate to the club for anyone to use if necessary. Couple of aprons, safety glasses, face shield. Let me know.