Problem Solving

Hi everyone, i was wondering, how does one go about calculating the vibration forces generated by a hammer's impact theoritically?? i mean, i have all the information of the hammer, but if i want to know how much vibration is being generated in the ground after passing through the anvil, how do i do so? Regards.

Just picked up a champion crank blower and I read somewhere online a while back that the tub of these blowers should be filled with oil about 1/4 up from the bottom. I'm thinking some heavy gear grease on the cogs is about all it needs, but just want to make sure I'm using this old piece like it was meant to be. I noticed another post regarding a little of this but didnt get into a lot of detail. Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse here Any ideas? Thanks a bunch

Hi guys, looking for some help. I was just asked me about making some anitques type corn dryers for someone. :confused:I'm not sure how to go about it. I'm thinking just some flat bar slit then forged out into the spikes. Could someone please give me some advice? Pictures attached. I'm sure it's simple, but I want to have an idea first. Thanks in advance.

Background info: I have a Swedish anvil that has a nominal 1" hardy. It's actually between 7/8's and an inch and not perfectly square. The anvil face is HARD. It had been abused. We tried to smooth it out by hand. No joy. We tried to mill it. No joy. I ended up taking it to a machine shop and they used a head milling machine. And they said, "That dude's hard.". I also have a JHM Competitor that has a 1 1/4" hardy. I'd like to be able to use the same hardy in each anvil. Prolbem: Is it practical expand the 1" to 1 1/4"? If yes, what would be the best way to do so? Presumably that may create an issue with weakening the tail. If I can't expand it to 1 1/4"…

A local church has asked me to modify the top rail of the rails on their steps. Skate boarders are grinding on the top rail and the church is wanting to not atrack them, and to stop damage to the rails. Ideas?

I recently accepted a commission to build the base for a coffee table. The design calls for bark textured 1/2 x 3" flats (both sides) slightly arched at the center by 2". I have pondered a number of ways to accomplish the arch without destroying the deep texturing (which I prefer to do while flat) and none really appeal. Anyone have a great ideas that will also save my arms?

Does anyone use this software? is it worth the asking price? lastly what are the alternatives?

Will some be so kind as to tell or give some info onTi, how work it. Thanks True

I live in the upper part of washington state and am having trouble finding coal locally any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have a request to build a gong out of 1/4 plate. Maybe 3 or 4 feet in diameter. Any clues onto how I can make it convex? I don't have a forge yet but if this project requires one, why not build one. I do have a set of ace/oxy torches. I was thinking of heating it with a torch and then sledge hammering it into the dirt. I would carve a bowl out of the dirt. please help me guys. much thanks greg

My apologies if we have covered this B4, but I can

Does anyone have any easy and cheap ways to build a housing around a fan, almost like on a hand blower exept it will be run by a motor instead, all i need is a housing and a ways to make it and attatch it to the fan. thanx DM

I'm new to this. Can anyone help me find cheap coke near Ballarat, Victoria Australia. What are tags? and what do you do with them.

hello everybody want to know if anyone knows whats wrong with the archives tried to get in the problem solving and i couldn't get in and does anyone know if the 500 blueprints are still coming or not

Anybody know anything about this blower?? It blows fine but not sure if its powerful enough for a gas forge blower. It doesn't blow near as strong as a hair dryer but I don't know what a blown burner requires. Hate go to the trouble of fabbing a 2 into 1 manifold if its an inadequate blower. I got it with a bunch of "stuff" that was otherwise going to the dump LOL. I googled it and came up empty but here are the specs from the ID plate: Redmond Co. Mod 3743 115 V 60 cyc 1570 rpm .3 amps type "L" 22 watts Ser# 12Q37996 Oil every 6 mos sae 20 wt HP wasn't stamped which is why CFM rating may be difficult(?) Fans 3.5" x 1.75" Ports 2" I.D. Thanks for any input, …

I am interested in how to case-harden some very thin sheet steel. Specifically, 28 gauge (.015") low-carbon sheet, 1010 steel. There is quite a bit of this material requiring treatment. I want to do it as a backyard project. The material will be cut to a specialized shape, then polished using various grades of silicon carbide. After that, I want to give it a very hard surface. My initial thought is to build a special container of aluminum, place the parts inside (with suitable separation), and fill the container with powdered charcoal, possibly mixed with boron carbonate. This would be placed into a suitably sized firebrick oven, surrounded with charcoal. After …

I made my blower from an old Electrolux vacuum my MIL was throwing out. I hooked a 30 foot hose to the blow end of the vacuum and have the thing as far away from me as possible to keep the noise down. I built my forge out of an old truck rim. My fire pot is much larger than normal because I burn wood because coal is hard to get here and the neighbours never complain about me burning wood. I control the air flow with a big old tap I found in a junk pile. Works great. I can control the air flow with the twist of my wrist, from a whisper to an all out blast. Me tap. Installed just below me work table on the side of me forge. The vacuum hose just stick in the end of…

I have thought about forging titanium with my regular gear.. steel hammers and anvils.. was researching forgeable alloys.. found an article about hot titanium and steel/iron fire scale and an exothermic reaction.... basically a thermite reaction.... is this a bad idea?? I know it will take more heat and heavier blows to forge... like some grades of stainless .....

Does anyone know a way to **hand** cut tapered wood-screw type threads on the end of a ~1/4" rod, without using a mechanical thread-cutting machine? The rod would be about 10 or more inches long for demonstrating making a mid-1800s canon vent tool. Period correct method very much preferred. The threaded end of the rod *must* be tapered. Is there such a thing as a die for cutting tapered threads? If so where may I find one?

What the rules are for the tailgaiting section? I've noticed it's mostly tools that have been put up but it says forge items. Thanks, Ryan

anyone know of a supplier(s) of kaowool or durablanket etc. in the northeast corner of SD/MN area? I think its time to quit trying to be cheap & do it right. guess I'll have to use the perlite for plants & the fireclay for pots!!!

I'm looking for ideals for a rural mail box post ...anybody made one ...got pictures. the ones I've looked at on the internet arn't what I'ed called forged

i found this anvil on ebay and im confused about the two hardy hole that are not square here is the link: This is the html version of the file NICE 58 lb. CAST STEEL Blacksmith BENCH Anvil NR - eBay (item 110358895289 end time Mar-07-09 19:05:00 PST) any feedback would be greatly appreciated thanks

Has anybody got any information about how to make a sun dial?

I have 2 8 foot long used cutting edges off snow plows. Any idea what kind of steel they might be? I was thing of building a small hand shear from one of them, or would I be wasting my time?