Iron Falcon 72 Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Background info: I have a Swedish anvil that has a nominal 1" hardy. It's actually between 7/8's and an inch and not perfectly square. The anvil face is HARD. It had been abused. We tried to smooth it out by hand. No joy. We tried to mill it. No joy. I ended up taking it to a machine shop and they used a head milling machine. And they said, "That dude's hard.". I also have a JHM Competitor that has a 1 1/4" hardy. I'd like to be able to use the same hardy in each anvil. Prolbem: Is it practical expand the 1" to 1 1/4"? If yes, what would be the best way to do so? Presumably that may create an issue with weakening the tail. If I can't expand it to 1 1/4" can I at least square it up and get it to a real 1"? If yes, what would be the best way to do so? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Swedish and really hard face. Sodorfors? You could probably get away with using a die grinder to widen the hardy hole but it'd be a job. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted March 27, 2009 Author Share Posted March 27, 2009 Swedish and really hard face. Sodorfors? You could probably get away with using a die grinder to widen the hardy hole but it'd be a job. Frosty Unfortunately, the manu. name is gone. Can only just barely read "Sweden". I'm not familiar with tools to use in the die grinder. Will they be able to get square corners or will the hardy corners be more rounded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TASMITH Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 You don't really want "square" corners in the hardy. If the corners are "square" (aka...SHARP) it will be a guaranteed point of a crack starting that will go through to the edge of your anvil. Any sharp transition like that in steel is the weakest point and any stress will be at its' highest at that point. That is also why you never have a 'sharp' edge(except on knives of course). Almost all machined tools have a very small radius(break) on edges, corners etc., unless they are specially designed for trimming , cutting or punching. In those cases a special tool steel is used for just that purpose. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgtwister Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 (edited) the die grinder uses a round bit so yes it would have a rounder corner depending on how small a bit you use is how rounded it would be and remember that the more metal you remove the weaker the heal will be maybe not enough to mater though it must have something to do with sweden anvils i have a farriers anvil that was made there that my pop bought from centaur forge back in the early 70's and that to has a 7/8 hole or kinda anyway and its hard to not sure of how hard but he used it for years shoeing and then i have used and there isn't a mark on it Edited March 27, 2009 by orgtwister Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Is it practical expand the 1" hardie hole to 1-1/4"? Why not just make all the hardie tools with a one inch hardie post and reduce (sleeve) the larger hardie hole to match the smaller post? A piece of angle iron would do, or a piece of square tubing with the top flared a bit. I use both methods, they are easy to make and your tools fit any anvil that is available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 I'm with Glenn! Find a piece of sq tubing that fits in the hardy hole, saw the corners down 1/2" to an inch and fold them out as tabs, drop into the larger hardy hole and not only is the hole effectively smaller but you have the soft tubing steel to protect your anvil face from the base of the hardy tools as they will rest on it rather than the anvil face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy seale Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 that would be my suggestion, to just bush up the larger hole, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Ding, Ding, Ding! We have a winner!!! I agree. I wouldn't want to do any un-necessary grinding/cutting etc to an anvil. Making a shim for the bigger hole make more sense, and then, it wouldn't be a permanent modification at that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 I have to agree, sleeving the larger one would be safer and a LOT less work. Die grinder stones, burs, etc. are indeed round but you can get them in different diameters so the corners would have a radius and be stronger as mentioned. For reference, a Dremel is a small die grinder. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Evers Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Just a quess that you have a 25 mm hardy hole. One inch equals 25.4 mm, so just a bit smaller than 1 inch. I have also sleeved my big anvil to take the hardy tools for my smaller one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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