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I Forge Iron

It followed me home


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Take a section:  drift one end larger for a pipe bowl (or work it around a small bick) and fuller around the base of the bowl to neck it down 

Slit and drift/work the eye.

Forge down the other end for the edged section, (forge welding the hole closed). 

File/finish to suit. 

Drill out the smoke passage in the bowl

I'll see if I can find the first one I was working on; pretty rough though.

This is the project where I found that my screwpress did a beautiful job, 1 heat to drive a chisel/drift 1" in diameter completely through the HC steel. (S-1 chisel/drift)

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Sweet score JHCC! 

I just got back from picking up two more champion 400 blowers, they cost me a little more then those I swapped for last weekend but their in a lot better shape too, $50 USD a piece, and they don’t need as much to get them ready to forge,

I also picked up a post vise brand I’ve never came across before, Arthur j.o’ Leary, marked 35 on the stationary jaw,

it has serrated jaws like a bench vise? 
the body an jaws are in excellent shape, doesn’t look like it’s been used much judging by the ski slope being clean from marks,

It has a bolt on mount that’s been warped at some point, so it won’t mount flush,

I would have thought the mount was cast by looking at it, but I’ve never seen anything made from cast iron warp, it normally just breaks? 

so I don’t know if I can just heat it up an bend it back or just leave it alone and figure out how to mount it like it is? 81473B93-CB08-475D-AD53-AF8F402371D3.thumb.jpeg.870f6451a5f6682ff3dd5fb3953e6e6d.jpeg

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We've discussed this brand of vise before on IFI; try your google-fu!

I've seen a lot of postvises vises with the crosshatched jaws; many of then wearing smooth and at least one that was reworked with sharp points to the cross hatching---so much so I made jaw covers so it wouldn't "pit" workpieces! 

With the plain legs and U-bolt mounting plate it still looks like a Columbian to me!

As for the plate: spark it on the underside to see if it's steel or cast iron. If steel flatten it. If cast iron, well that's a bit of a choice to attempt or not.

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Haven’t got a chance to do any brand research yet Thomas,

I was just stating that, I personally haven’t came across this brand yet… And that I’ve never seen cast iron twist/warp my experience is it cracks or breaks, 

You think it’s a rebranded Columbian? They made some cast steel products maybe the mount is cast steel, 

I’ll try spark testing and post what it looks like shortly 

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I've seen some warped cast iron. I've just not often seen it straightened out successfully. 

It is risky business and were it mine if I couldn't get it to mount well with it I'd make a replacement and keep the other for the history of the vise. 

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You could use fender washers or something under the plate as spacers to bolt it down to something flat. I don't think the whole plate needs to be in contact. Seems safer than trying to straighten it, but I'm interested to see how it turns out. It looks to be in great shape otherwise.

Brake rotors are cast and they are known to warp, but that's from heat. I wonder how that would've happened to that plate.

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On 1/13/2022 at 1:08 PM, ThomasPowers said:

Oil field kelly's are hollow; perhaps the drilling rigs they used for roads and bridges were different?

You're right, I had it wrong. I'm purely a soil sample type driller, zero experience on an oil rig. And I call people for making the same mistake. 

Worse than that I took a look at pics of the last drill I ran and the CME 75 sure enough DID have a hollow kelly bar though it was round with keys and an automatic lock and the water swivel is on top. 

The older rigs carried the water swivel on a U joint under the draw works which then coupled to the drill rod. The kelly bar was way forward, almost in the tower. 

I'm just going to sit quietly and slap my head for a while now.

Frosty The Lucky.

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How perfect George. Do you  know of a more believable story than Mrs. Oleary's cow kicking a lantern over? I can't imagine anybody who's milked a cow putting anything within kicking  or poopy tail swishing range.

Frosty The Lucky.

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A friend who’s getting divorced and moving into an apartment has asked me to take care of her anvil for the foreseeable future. It’s a 125lb Peter Wright in quite good shape, if sadly underused.   Ring and rebound are excellent, although it’s completely dead at the far end of the tail.

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By some stroke of good luck, the hardy hole is exactly the same size as on my Mousehole (aka The Undisputed King of Anvils), albeit with its asymmetry rotated 90°.

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I took these photos with the PW resting on my striking anvil/portable hole, which is a bit high. I’ll be giving some thought to the design for its own stand.

 

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60# at the scrapyard today: some good sized chain, a couple of ricer rattlers (speakers), 1 13/16 socket on a 3/4" drive extension, 1" unplated wrench, 4 card file drawers in steel,  misc.  Brought a new metalworker to visit the yard, met him at the public library Friday over lunch and have invited him to forge this weekend,  He's 75 and does Spanish colonial reenactment wants to make period spurs...

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Twisted, just mount the vise and see if it pulls down flat with the bolts. My guess it will bend as they would not put a brittle mount on a vise designed to be beat on.   And you did good on the Champion 400's.  I usually see them listed for $250.  I have one myself that needs a restoration. I think I gave $20 or $30 for it years ago. I know where one is being use as yard art, but they are not interested in selling it off due to it being her grandfather's. 

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