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I Forge Iron

Branding Iron

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Everything posted by Branding Iron

  1. For what the HD Yost vise cost you could have a really nice used Athol, Columbian, Prentis or similar vintage vise that will likely hold its value better. Asking one vise to do it all is a tall order that will never be 100% for everything you want. Perhaps a post vise and a good swivel bench vise?
  2. You might find a small interest from those in the nursery business in a modified hay hook. A lot of ball and burlap trees have wire mesh type baskets. Having a hook about 18” or so comes in pretty handy.
  3. $26k for a 40x60 slab?! It would cost me half that with modest site grading at 6” here in the Midwest United States. Regional price differences never cease to amaze me. If I wasn’t such a tool hoarder a good shade tree would be my favorite smithy for a good chunk of the year.
  4. Work, nice weather, family obligations and hunting have delayed me on this project. However, Not completely slacking I was able to locate a used motor over the last few weeks and cleaned surfaces for Babbitt last night. Surprisingly there was no visible bubbling of the paint when I melted it off and the other painted surfaces appear unharmed.
  5. Don’t know that I’ve ever really noticed / looked for anything on the net for differences between the two, just know what’s comfortable to me (proper technique or not) and I prefer a shorter height when using both hands swinging a hammer for striking. Probably has a more similar feel as splitting wood with maul and wedges to me growing up I guess. Glad to hear your anvil is fine. I’ll feel better knowing a $20 piece of steel is being hit by someone who has never swung a hammer in my shop!
  6. Anvil - I’ve got a small group of teenagers eager to swing the sledge on some hot metal. Mind if we come over and use your anvil? It makes me cringe to think of them around my anvil! The other benefit to me is working height on my striking anvil being lower than that of my anvil. Perhaps I’m just used to it.
  7. I’ve got a couple more weeks to think about it. Worst case scenario I’ll touch up with some wet paint.
  8. Sand blasted and powder coated. One step closer! Any reason I couldn’t pour Babbitt over paint?
  9. That’s a fantastic find and will be a great reminder for you. However, shame on you for not being back a bunch more to take advantage of free shipping!! What are the current weight restrictions?
  10. What is the return pressure testing at prior to enter filter assembly? What is your filter rated for?
  11. The best option is to leave it alone! Try using it for awhile as is and see if it interferes with your work (highly unlikely).
  12. Couple packages came in the mail today! Motor mount, Babbitt, forming shaft, shims, and rebuilding video.
  13. Fowllife - I was thinking thirds as well. What are those metal Chanel strips on the inside edge of the forms to allow bending rebar out to connect to next slab and give a locking channel called? Seems like they could be useful in a scenario like this. Vibrascreed could be your new best friend - try one out sometime!
  14. Partially disassembled, hoping I don’t have to take clutch off. Don’t see any cracks in Babbitt on shaft from outside yet. Babbitt bearings on body were shot. Main body was dropped off last night for blasting and powder coating. Yes, that’s a bit of a splurge, but I think she’s worth it!
  15. Picked up this project last weekend. Haven’t owned a power hammer before and never been involved with rebuilding one - looking forward to the education from all of you! Delivered new in 1918 to Holstein, IA. She’s a little overdue for a makeover. I’ll figure out posting pics, I know we all enjoy seeing them. Rebuild book is in hand with Sid’s LG videos on the way...
  16. Yes, the horizontal blocking installed between studs. No, it won’t help initial stopping on outside from fire source like double layering Sheetrock or using PermaBase, but it will certainly help slow spread should something catch and it provides a nice support for nailing/screwing material to.
  17. Whatever you end up doing consider fire blocking even if it’s not required.
  18. In reading your threads I feel your conundrum. Buying property for an investment and preserving historical relevance is a tight line most cannot manage. A few questions for consideration: 1) If the shop is cleared out is the intent to sell the building, razed or? 2) What would it take to preserve the structure in its current state to ensure safety and usability? 3) If you keep the structure and smithing contents for use does this allow for other needed building space? As you continue to discover and organize don’t overlook insurance needs on both the structure and contents.
  19. Responded to an ad advertising an anvil for sale - ended up being just a couple miles from my house. Nothing special for an anvil, but will be great for the kids keeping them off my good one and less than $2/lb. Had a post vise in great shape that also came home with me for $25. The best thing that came home with me from that outing were great stories! His father was a full time blacksmith... Being in a very small town he could hear his dad hammering away on the anvil pretty much anywhere he went. Sadly all of his fathers tools were scattered to the wind long ago.
  20. I started taking my youngest to events at 6 and he had a great time hammering out some knife like pointy things. As long as they have the ability to listen and follow directions... safety gear and safe handling are critical. Take a class or two together it’s a great bonding and learning experience. Start off with some basic fundamentals in forging to avoid frustrations of not making a great knife right off the bat.
  21. There is only one right answer in this case - leave it alone!
  22. Small local contractor, Habitat for Humanity or local window replacement companies would be a much better place to start. An abandoned farmhouse in Oklahoma is a good place to stumble into trouble. Snakes, meth labs, and people associated with property who don’t want you there even though they may not own it... bad combination.
  23. My advise is worth just as much as I’m charging you for it... 6” concrete for your shop is significantly more expensive and overkill unless you have specific ideas not mentioned. If 4” is fine for your cars what will you be putting in that needs 6”? 2’ rebar grid would be overkill in my area too - 3’ would more than suffice. A large power hammer would have its own footing. Take the cost savings from your concrete and insulate the ceiling. Heat and AC are really nice... A double layer of 5/8” Sheetrock (or whatever local code requires) might be better than having a curtain?
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