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I Forge Iron

Branding Iron

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Everything posted by Branding Iron

  1. I would highly recommend buying the Little Giant rebuilding video if you’re thinking about buying one. This will give you a really nice in depth visual training on what to look for. This videos would have saved me a few hundred dollars on my first purchase had I done this route myself. Just because it will operate doesn’t mean the bearings have much life, the toggle arms aren’t wallowed out on the holes, the pitman isn’t cracked, the dies will need replacement, or the motor is just simply a poor match for the machine…. Not to mention there are different styles worth knowing about. Luckily many of the parts are still available, and this is a very popular machine which equates to a lot of knowledge out there if you do run into problems. Price is highly variable. Here in the Midwest, U.S. I’ve seen project hammers for about $1,000 to fully rebuilt for $5,000 within the last year, that brand/size.
  2. A handheld router would make quick work of taking your stand down 4cm. Either trace your anvil footprint to route out or take the entire surface down. I’ve got tools that could take this off in one pass, but I’d still use the router.
  3. I think the ‘pitting’ is actually damage from some type of punch work. $1/lb difference is a lot, but I’d be leaning towards the other one, with an equal rebound. Those chips can be dealt with nicely, and it shows a lot less work overall.
  4. I’d be inclined to change the angle of the neck a few more times and play with it. Also, it appears your hardy hole has a Lot more depth than most of us, which could make it more difficult to catch the hardy shank off center. Ultimately you may have to end up drawing the neck out more to create some spring potential. That being said I can see functionality in that piece even without the ability to lock tightly. Curious to see other feedback and what ends up working.
  5. It wiggles when you put stock under the holdfast and give the top of the holdfast a couple taps with your hammer, or it wiggles when it’s placed in the hardy hole? I have a large square shank holdfast for woodworking with no real flex in the neck to help with wedging - it takes a couple really good whacks to lock it in place, but it requires stock underneath to create the angle on the stem.
  6. Whatever it’s called, it’s pretty cool. A bit different from the usual, but definitely has functionality. Got me wondering if I can sneak in a couple drawknives into the house, I mean cheese slicers!
  7. Glad that’s sorted. Now I can go build my barn out of those pine dowels and sheet my shed with those 8”x8” oak timbers I milled. Just need to pick up the screws. Hope I don’t need to buy a CNC machine to make the screws.
  8. It won’t make you a better smith, but it can certainly bring personal satisfaction to own a nice anvil. It might be worth a trip to see the anvil man - just to make comparisons of different types if nothing else. Bring a ball bearing to test rebound just in case! Otherwise $1,000 can get you a whole lot of tooling and a nice chunk of steel.
  9. The stand was definitely not made for an anvil. This anvil is not worth driving several hours for even at half the current asking price. There is damage to the face and significant damage on the edge. Not sure if the Brooks or Fisher anvil that show in the same general area are any closer, but they might be a decent option to consider if you can get the price down. At the current prices for any of those anvils I’d be looking at a new anvils!
  10. Almost embarrassing but I’ve come to accept certain projects in my life are going to take longer than initially planned. I came across a fantastic deal on a good functioning 25lb LG a few months after the last post in 2020 so here this beautiful unfinished one sits… I pulled this project out again a couple weeks ago with the intention to finish this winter. My first attempt at pouring the bearings is shown here. There were no issues with the paint bubbling from preheat and everything went according to plan (almost). Unfortunately I forgot about leaving the bearing a bit long to trim off, so I went ahead and removed these bearings to pour again.
  11. Kathy, posting a few pictures here can get you a quick price range, and point out if there is anything that might be special (I.e. standard $75 leg vise vs. $500+ Fisher double vise). Otherwise the local BAM chapter will have a better handle on local values, and might be able to assist with selling. Assuming these tools are still in Nebraska just remember there is probably a significant amount of weight and time involved if you decide to move them first. Feel free to PM me if interested in a FaceTime assessment. Full disclosure - I might be interested in purchasing a swage block, if tools are in MO.
  12. Have you looked at the Holland 200lb double horn?
  13. Beautiful anvil. I’ve always been drawn to this style, and hope to have one this year or next. Since you opened the doors, here are some questions! What are the benefits and drawbacks to this particular style versus other styles? How do you typically use the side shelf? Has the type of blacksmithing work remained consistent for you over 40 years? If not what can you discuss general changes? How long was your apprenticeship?
  14. O’Leary vise was probably warped in the great fire from O’Leary’s barn…That and a few of those new cannon balls and you can have a side business in unscrupulous antique dealings!
  15. Just saw this yesterday… Don’t know how things are turning out, but I hope things are looking brighter. Only met Dave once, but he seems like a great guy. He actually met me in town so we could follow him back to the shop and not get lost on the curvy back roads in the dark! I went ahead and ordered some more tongs from him today - he makes quality products! One of his tire hammers is still on my list.
  16. The paper cutter if useable has a far higher value in reselling than scavenging for steel.
  17. For what the HD Yost vise cost you could have a really nice used Athol, Columbian, Prentis or similar vintage vise that will likely hold its value better. Asking one vise to do it all is a tall order that will never be 100% for everything you want. Perhaps a post vise and a good swivel bench vise?
  18. You might find a small interest from those in the nursery business in a modified hay hook. A lot of ball and burlap trees have wire mesh type baskets. Having a hook about 18” or so comes in pretty handy.
  19. $26k for a 40x60 slab?! It would cost me half that with modest site grading at 6” here in the Midwest United States. Regional price differences never cease to amaze me. If I wasn’t such a tool hoarder a good shade tree would be my favorite smithy for a good chunk of the year.
  20. Work, nice weather, family obligations and hunting have delayed me on this project. However, Not completely slacking I was able to locate a used motor over the last few weeks and cleaned surfaces for Babbitt last night. Surprisingly there was no visible bubbling of the paint when I melted it off and the other painted surfaces appear unharmed.
  21. Don’t know that I’ve ever really noticed / looked for anything on the net for differences between the two, just know what’s comfortable to me (proper technique or not) and I prefer a shorter height when using both hands swinging a hammer for striking. Probably has a more similar feel as splitting wood with maul and wedges to me growing up I guess. Glad to hear your anvil is fine. I’ll feel better knowing a $20 piece of steel is being hit by someone who has never swung a hammer in my shop!
  22. Anvil - I’ve got a small group of teenagers eager to swing the sledge on some hot metal. Mind if we come over and use your anvil? It makes me cringe to think of them around my anvil! The other benefit to me is working height on my striking anvil being lower than that of my anvil. Perhaps I’m just used to it.
  23. I’ve got a couple more weeks to think about it. Worst case scenario I’ll touch up with some wet paint.
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