Shoshinjoe Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 A draw knife and my second attempt at an owl opener. Tried some different techniques for the wings on this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 6 hours ago, Frazer said: I also repaired one (and destroyed one) basket twist. The one I fixed had thicker round stock and i broke out the welder to reattach a couple strands. I have been having a lot of trouble with the second weld when the mandrel isn't keeping everything in place... Any suggestions? It seems they just don't wan't to stick like the first bundle which always seems to go well. What mandrel?? It might simply be a "Nomenclature" thing. Simple observation is to heavy of a hammer hit setting the welds, and not hot enough or a combination there of.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frazer Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 Yea, I'm probably using the wrong term there, but I'm talking about that piece of round stock that you wrap the bundle around to make the first weld, then remove for the second. You'e probably right, I'll try using my little 1lb-er on the next one. As for the heat, Maybe I'm fooling myself into thinking that I'm at a welding temp when really its only the strands, and not quite all the way through. Ill give it a shot, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 I get it. Are you using the method I show in the video or something else? I personally avoid using a center rod that has to be removed (yes it's a mandrel). There is a method out there that works pretty well with a mandrel to keep the round rods centers so they don't collapse onto each other when welded.. for this you cut the sections into about 3/4" long, stack them up inside the rods with the last one being the filler piece for the weld. If you have baskets that are collapsing at the ends this can be a great tool to use, but I find if I keep an eye on that little fill piece as i am welding I can avoid the collapse. You leave these filling pieces in until the both welds are complete then remove the 3/4" pieces by opening a little space for them to fall out of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goods Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 Shoshinjoe, I like that owl. Pretty cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frazer Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 I am using the method showed in one of your videos where you had used a mandrel, but instead of a filler piece, I am doing a scarfed piece at both ends. I need the extra length at both ends since it's not being used as a handle. I do have some trouble keeping an eye on the end of the scarf for the the second weld sometimes, so I think I am missing the spot I should be hitting and just squishing the rods, then they end up burning away while I am trying to fix the bad weld. At a certain point, once it gets all covered with ash, they just wont stick. My forge isn't very big or deep so it doesn't keep a clean fire for welding for long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 If you change the method or the order of the steps it will change the outcome. It doesn't have to, but the way it was laid out was the most consistent for most people for the item shown. If you are looking to add another bar to the end like for an element in the middle of a bar this method shown breaks down because it wasn't designed for it. the weight of the bar on the other end when taking a welding heat can move all the pieces out of alignment. So use the exact method shown and then you will have to do a lap weld for second shaft part on the other end. So, ideally the mandrel is used to weld the very end where the finial would be placed.. The finial can be welded on just after the rods are welded together and before the mandrel is withdrawn if proper technique is used so the mandrel does not get welded inside the bundle.. You can use a stainless steel rod in the center of the bundle is you are worried about the mild steel mandrel being welded inside if the technique is not clean. if you can watch the video on the Herb hook as for how light the taps are when setting the weld. I'm welding 3 round 5/16 bars together.. it is so much easier with a swage, but I didn't even use one. You can here the guy ask if that was the weld, it was that quick and light. So, there are methods that would need to be changed in order to make it work in a different scenario. Draw a sketch or take a picture of what you are trying to make happen and we can work on it if you'd like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frazer Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 I actually just watched your second basket twist video where you add the plate in the middle of the twist, that was very cool! I think ill need a little more practice before trying that extra complication, but it did give me some things to think about. I was following the method in your video entitled ""How To" Forge a Blacksmith Twist Handle (Basket) for those Who have not Mastered forge welding." I wont embed the video itself, since it is long and I'm not sure how that would affect the loading speed of the page for other users. Only was scarfing and welding in both sides instead of just one (with very limited success). I do like the lap weld method for adding additional length at the other end of the twist. Its like welding on the reins for tongs, but I didn't think to do that here.. I'm going to try some of the things you have suggested and see how it goes, and if things still don't improve I'll draw up some things and share them with you outside of this thread. Thank you very much for your help and for sharing some of your knowledge with people like myself. Sorry everyone for getting a little off topic here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 Nice work shoshinjoe. Looks like some mighty fine work on the draw knife.. Preference wise, I like my draw knife handles angled more at a 90 in the corners but it's just a style thing.. Love the Owl too.. Some really nice work.. did you use a fuller to set in the cutting edge to the draw knife or peen of hammer? I had looked years ago at different styles and it was interesting to say the least how they changed over time and they also got lighter.. I think it had to do with Cast steels becoming more easily able to attain. Vs wrought iron steeled. I did notice that larger ones seemed to follow the older patterns and the newer lighter, finer ones used the hollow bevel aspect. Frazer, this forum is one of the most off topic, come back around places I have been to. Have you been on a thread where it's about one particular thing and you strike a funny bone.. Oh, that is a ride into a topic happening near the moon and back.. But somehow the topic gets back around to.. A great understanding of forge welding completely opens doors into another world of design.. The method used in the video you watched first is only one approach that can be applied to really fine wired handles.. Mild steel today complicates things some but with the right eye, all of it is possible. just takes a little longer.. Wrought iron welded to itself looks like the same bar to start out with.. those days are gone though.. Well unless you have a stock pile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoshinjoe Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 jlp I used a small fuller that i made to use on leaves and decorative stuff l. I’m going to make a bigger fuller soon and probably grind out that ugly fuller line on the draw knife. Goods, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GolFisHunt Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 (edited) I forged this out of a 5/8" car spring yesterday. The blade is 5". The quench today resulted in an impressive warp. Managed to straighten it during the tempering. It seems to have a vague knife like quality. So far, so good. I'll also try to resize the picture. Resize photo from 971X547 to 550X309 Edited March 20, 2020 by Mod30 Not sure how to resize the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 To resize the picture, edit and double click the picture. An edit box pops up and I use 500 for the width and check the box to retain the original aspect, then tab over to automatically resize the height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GolFisHunt Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 Thanks. Apparently the sideways pictures work. The width was under 500. Aspect ratio maybe the term you're missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 15 hours ago, Shoshinjoe said: second attempt at an owl opener. Are you supposed to open owls from the top or bottom? What happened on the first attempt - did you get beaked? Kidding aside I like it a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 I thought the owl opener was "Owl be home for Christmas, You can Plane on me,..." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted March 20, 2020 Author Share Posted March 20, 2020 Added some links to the chain and also a hook, and then forged a tomohawk out of 10” of 1-1/2x1/4” flat and used a rasp for the bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 Nice forgings, littleblacksmith. Well, after 10+ months in the process, I finished my forge today. Pictorial proof: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eventlessbox Posted March 20, 2020 Share Posted March 20, 2020 Finished up a two handed ax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Crew Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 Chris It looks like you spent quit a bit of time and effort both designing and building your forge. I like your "swirlivator" to mix the gas and air. Not to be negative but it looks like it is fairly high up. Why ? I bet you wish you had had your new welder when building the base! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 Thanks, Old Crew. It has to be after the Gas inlet and I don't like bending over all that much. It won't be in harms way there..............and if it is, it'll be easy to lower. A big "yup" on your comment about the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Crew Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 It has been a tough week and I was feeling depressed. So I was browsing through some posts here and came across a video of a JABOD variation with nothing more than an old hair dryer a piece of pipe and a few bricks. My forge build has been on hold for a while because I am OCD/ADD and anal. Its a bad combo. So this evening I went out and built a forge in about 1/2 an hour. I stole a hair dryer from the bathroom (alright I asked) and I had some old bricks. I set some bricks as a floor on a rolling cart and put a pipe surrounded by bricks on the floor. A few more bricks to contain the fire and I had a quick and dirty forge! Fuel ? All I had was some charcoal briquettes and a bag of coke that I bought a few weeks ago at a blacksmith demo. No coal they had sold out. I put a few of the briquettes in a used my torch to start them and put some coke on top. Before long I had fire! Soooooooo What to forge with my new found fire ? I needed a good beginner project Like a SWORD! My small amount of common sense won. So I took a piece of 1/2 round rod and forged it square for a couple inches then did a square taper from 1/2 down to about 3/16. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 wow, Chris that is excellent.. A blown forge, way to go.. I'm sorry i missed the build thread on it.. I'll have to check it out for sure. Old Crew You won't need much more than that starting out.. I'd put a little longer pipe on it, just so you can shut it off between heats but that will work well for a little while till you get totally hooked. Beautiful work LBS.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Crew Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 I forged a hammer head at a friends shop with his help and a 200# Beaudry for my first project. Very little hand hammering . So I figured that squaring and drawing to a taper would be a good beginner lesson on hammer control. I didn't have as much heat as I would have liked. Maybe not enough hairdryer or not enough coke or not enough experience in building a fire. JLP The hair dryer is not connected to the pipe. It is just blowing into it no heat transfer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 I would say from looking at your first square taper from round, you have hammer control pretty much dialed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoshinjoe Posted March 21, 2020 Share Posted March 21, 2020 Buzzkill the first one opened me right up... I posted it in another thread. Thomas Powers i hadn't heard that one before Chris that forge looks amazing. Eventless great work LBS beautiful work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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