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What did you do in the shop today?


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Thanks all.

I enjoy making good looking practical stuff like dooropeners.

Waiting on clearcoat for one that go to my front door (stainless was better, but to expensive for what i need and not a size i find easely as a leftover)

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Two significant steps forward. First, I finished forging the mounting brackets for a stair rail project:

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 Second, I added a buffing wheel arbor and motor to my grinder stand:

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JLP, it’s meant for processing meat. The person who requested it was looking for something like his grandfather has that was use with a baton for cut through bone. The spine is 1/4” thick at the handle down to about 3/16” at the hole. The spine is also drawn back considerably.
 

I met up with him tonight and he’s pretty happy with it. So, maybe a few more hours and I’ll be happy with it and it will be done.

I’ve got to get back to some basic forge projects and build some inventory for a festival/demo next month.

Keep it fun,

David

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David is this unit going to be use to Baton thru bone also?   

Years ago when I was "into" knives I had looked into cleavers thinking there was only 1 type..   14/15yrs old. 

I soon learned there were many types..   

I had gone to an old meat processing place and seeing their cleavers and the edges was educational. 

They would saw thru larger bones.. The cleavers were used for joint separation and any soft to hard tissue junction.  (knees, hocks, shoulders, ribs). 

I'll be super interested to hear how the 8670 holds up against the cutting of the bones.. 
 

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I understand, never seen it done myself and not sure how big of a bone he’s talking about, I’d expect it to be poultry. I’m curious to hear how it works out for him. (I’m honestly not sure if it will get used or if it will be a “show” piece.)

I had 80CRV or 8670 for this project, while the 80CRV would have given more visual appeal, the 8670 sounded tougher and easier to heat treat with a basic setup. Hopefully my choice was a good one. (I’m open to hearing others thoughts on this, no offense taken if it was a bad choice…)

Keep it fun,

David

(I thought I already posted this, but at least the system restored the text so I didn’t have to retype it…)

genwood, I can’t wait to see that done. I have an image in my mind at to what it is and curious to see the out come.

Keep it fun,

David

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Gewoon Ik,  Hey, your making some progress.. Very nice..  6mmX 20mm starting stock? 

I forged out most the parts for an Air cooled Wisconsin hand crank start lever. 

Was only going to forge the socket (1" ID) but then was having too much fun.. 



 

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Ok, Gewoon, what in the .... is that going to be? Work is good just trying to figure out what it is. I am thinking octopus or squid. 

Have un upcoming "new" (to me) craft show shindig. Not sure about the crowd that will be there and i am making i bit of everything to test the waters. I figured take a few hot dog/marshmallow sticks. To make the fork i decided to forge braze a fork with a "socket" on the end of a piece of 1/4" round.

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Billy: I've made carving forks from flat stock before, IIRC 1.4" x 3/4" and they turned out pretty nicely. The one trick I figured out was to taper the tine end before splitting, spreading and forming the crux on the anvil horn. My anvil has a round horn so spreading the tines and reversing it on the horn made a pretty even crux. 

I also formed the tines one at a time, not having an anvil bridge at the time. Getting the tine's compound curves right and even was tricky.

What to do with the handle is pretty wide open, though punching and drifting the far end for a hanger or as I did at the joke suggestion of one of the guys at the hammer in a bottle opener. (My new standard finial for forged BBQ tools)

Coming along nicely John though I must say at first glance pic 1 looked like wreckage. My perception resolved right away and it looks just like what it is.

Frosty The Lucky.

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John, Looking good..  I wasn't sure where you were going with those pads with the hooks on them but it all came to light. 

Looks great..  Your getting good at the woopytydoos. 

I spent some time again at the "Moses Wilder Blacksmithing shop" in Bolton MA filming for the EAIA on compasses out of the Patterns book. 

My first one is complete..  I made a few pieces trying to figure out how they were commercially made but once that was done it went pretty well..    

Wrought iron with rasp steel tips.   I should throw it in the acid while it's still so clean..   Never thought about that till now. 

Not my cleanest work.  Decent for number1. 

 

 

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This is just my opinion as someone who came of age before the internet but IMO email is not the optimum mode of communication with places like the shops you are contacting because it is too impersonal and easily ignored.  The best is face to face contact and the second best is an actual telephone call.  If they can't/won't help you you just ask if there is someone they can suggest.  That can open up a surprising number of contacts.  Also, it is harder for them to turn you down and/or ignore you in person or on the phone.  Sometimes the old ways of communication have advantages.

And, while you are contacting these folk you can apply the TPAAAT (Thomas Powers Appled Anvil Acquisition Technique) which involves asking every person you meet or talk to if they know of any anvils for sale or available.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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20 hours ago, Frosty said:

I've made carving forks from flat stock before, IIRC 1.4" x 3/4"

Frosty, that is how i usually do carving forks as well. Takes a bit of time to draw out and i was looking for a quick way to get these done. Keep the price down, and they are 3' long so kinds wont have to get close to the fire when roasting their marshmellows. 

I also do my fire pokers now with either 1" or 3/4"x 1/4" flat bar. Instead of bending and welding the turkey foot i do an upset for it, like doing the tines of a fork but just one instead of 2, so that the spur comes out more of a "T" than a ">" shape. I think it looks much better and is not that much more difficult than the cut and bend method of doing pokers. 

I also love to forge braze. I find it mesmerizing watching the bronze flow into the joint.  

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I do toasting forks entirely differently than carving forks. Most people I've known can't seem to make a small fire to cook on, it has to be a serious BLAZE and you see red hands and faces, smoking clothes, etc. Nobody wants to deal with a steel toasting fork heavy enough it won't sag if it's long enough to be a comfortable distance from a fire.

Sooooo, I had a student briefly that needed blacksmithing course to meet college requirements and looked me up. Lindsay was very into back pack camping and like most people I know was tired of her food falling off the pointed stick. 

Below is what I came up with for her to forge. I call it a "pig tail toasting fork." It weighs maybe 1lb. I don't recall and never weighed one and fits in a back pack easily a couple pieces of rubber tubing or a little tape to cover the points and you're golden. When you get to the campsite you cut a dead stick and screw the fork on the end and you're cooking. Once you've finished toasting you can poke the tines in a piece of wood or the ground, insert a candle in the pig tail and enjoy a romantic candle lit hot dog supper. Hmmmm?

Frosty The Lucky.

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Thank you Jennifer. I made later versions with one more turn on the pig tail with a little finial scroll on the end turned to lay flat but angled up so it was easy to hook a finger on and loosen the coils to remove the stick. Put your thumb on the tab and turn the stick clockwise and out it slipped.

Lindsay made a similar tab mod to the pictured one around a campfire. 

I was bummed Lindsay didn't stick around longer but she was pursuing a veterinary degree and traveling in conjunction. I'll put money on her being a terrific vet!

Frosty The Lucky.

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Frosty

The pigtail idea is great. Might borrow your idea sometime.

 

I need some new tongs. A pair for 6mm flatbar. And a pair for hoops, also 6mm. 

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I also recieved a nice couple of springs. Diameter 4mm. But coil-over style (leaking damper). Not sure how to safely disasemble the thing. The springs are very stiff. I'm not able to compress the thing by hand. So a bit scared of just twisting the gaffel off. 

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Thank you Gewoon, and please feel free to use the pigtail and spread it around. Everybody.

Be VERY CAREFUL messing with that spring. Here we call them "struts" and the piston cylinder in the center is under very high pressure. Typically nitrogen gas and lots of people have been crippled and killed taking them apart. Automotive shops that specialize in suspension have special tools that can compress and hold the piston while the spring is released and then gradually allow it to spread. 

Please PLEASE do NOT try taking it apart! I don't have so many friends I want to lose one if I can do something about it!

Frosty The Lucky.

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Would it be safer to drill a small diameter (1/16"/.5mm) hole in the cylinder to release the gas gradually?  There must be some way to safely degas these.  What do scrappers do?

If faced with this I might be tempted to take them out to the rifle range and put a bullet through them from 100 yards or so.  Probably not an option in Belgium.

Once disarmed I'd salvage the spring and discard the cylinder since the piston rod is chrome plated.

PS Re campfires:  too many folk don't think that it is a "real" campfire unless it cn be seen from the International Space Station.

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Thanks for the nice compliments on the Compass..   

I needed a hand crank for my Wisconsin engine.  

At the filming session the owner was kind enough to turn a wooden handle to go over the steel sleeve..  The sleeve was then glued into the wood. 

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Frosty, i have now stolen that idea. I do ladles for camping that are similar. I make a ladle and instead of a handle make a cone shaped socket that a tree branch can be stuck into. Fits much better in camping gear than one with a handle. 

Interesting fact i learned many years ago. During the colonial period when armies used a flintlock, the bayonets with the round socket were more often used as candle holders or skewering sticks for cooking  than they were used for combat. 

I make my hotdog sticks from a piece of 1/4" round.  These are coming out at ~30" overall. I cut the bar at 36", draw out a but and square one end to twist and bend over for the handle. Here is one on a door for a size reference. 

I am really likig the brazed on forks. The one in the pick is just done and i have not ground off the excess.  

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