George N. M. Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 Yes, socket bayonets have been used for a lot more things than just converting a musket or rifle into a short pike. Soldiers are really good at adaptive uses. Ask any WW2, Korea, or Viet Nam vet about the things you can do with an M1 steel pot (helmet). The modern composite helmets certain ly give better protection but they do not have as many secondary uses. GNM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 2 hours ago, George N. M. said: socket bayonets have been used for a lot more things One of my old friends had one mounted on a broomstick. He used it for spitting rats in the barn. So, I welded the handrail onto the railing and did a lot of wire brushing. Also spot heated the railing and added my touchmark. Observant readers will have noticed the new vise stand: Which mounts both my smaller post vise and the little bench vise I got from the scrapyard: This is welded up from some 4” square tube, with shorter pieces at the base: Which are filled up with sand for weight and stability Which is held in with a cover of 16 ga. sheet: I’ve been playing with this idea in my head for a while, and I’m quite pleased with how it’s worked out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 Most of my stands are also filled with sand or floor dust (concrete floor that keeps giving of dust) with grinddust. Packs down good and cheap. Plus a nicr sweeped floor in my case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryFahnoe Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 Observant readers indeed, very nice John! I note the holes in the base plate, will be interested in how well it works for you as-is, or if you find that it needs to be bolted down. The railing project is also coming along nicely, can imagine that your clients will be quite happy with it! --Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 The mounting holes are left over from its previous life as the base plate for my belt grinder (now mounted elsewhere). I don't have plans to bolt it to the floor, as I like to have everything as moveable as possible. I am thinking about pouring the last of the bucket of sand into the column, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 I like the tines though they're a bit wide though flat is a good way to avoid the oft disastrous and much dreaded weeny spin! I know it doesn't show in the pic but the pig tail fork tines are flattened. I really found 1/4" rnd. tended to bend, especially is a youngster was using it. Someone on IFI had a great idea for a scout project toasting fork from 1/4" rnd. made around the camp fire even. It was a length of 1/4" rnd. (don't ask how long, SHEESH!) They file sharpened the ends then heated the center in the fire and bent it around a mandrel, pipe nipple spiked into wood or similar. When bent double they twisted the length to the fork location, opened the fork, wire brushed, and finished it in something food grade. AND toasted/roasted dinner. I found ladies generally liked a softer handle than a straight twist let alone pineapple twists. Now I have my belt grinder built I soften sharp edges with it. Before I broke them gently on the anvil during twisting. THEN I thought (head slapping moment) of doing a rope/ cable twist and everybody was happy, it looks cool, is easy to grip and there are no corners. Lindsay was a very hands on gal and liked the corners as milled so that's what she made. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 23 hours ago, Frosty said: Someone on IFI had a great idea for a scout project toasting fork from 1/4" rnd. made around the camp fire even. I think that was ThomasPowers of blessed memory. Interestingly, twisted wire forks date back to the Romans: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 If he didn't suggest it first I'm sure he had lots of good ideas to add. Pics of surgical forks and the appropriate side track would've been SO Thomas. <sigh> Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojo Pedro Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 I spent a couple hours and 4 anneals. Was total freehand but I like how he turned out. Cant seem to get any depth to these but fits for what I have in mind for it thanks for looking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted April 1 Share Posted April 1 Rojo pedro that looks great.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 22 hours ago, George N. M. said: Ask any WW2, Korea, or Viet Nam vet about the things you can do with an M1 steel pot (helmet). I have heard about cooking in them. Anything else? I could guess as a chamber pot but that wouldn't make wearing it again very pleasant. Cool face Rojo. Kind of a look of a hard life but still compassionate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 You're really coming along Pedro chasing and repousse takes time to get the hang of and you're getting there. I really like the emotion or mood you impart in your faces. I feel what you're tinking, Pedro. There is a way to move the material from outside the image outline you're working for the depth you want inside. Dang, that wasn't very clear was it? Maybe I'll recall, if so I'll get back. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George N. M. Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 OK, things I have done with or seen done with a helmet, steel, M1: bucket, stool, pillow, digging tool, wheel chock, pop corn popper, shaving bowl, bathing bowl, and just about any other use that that shape and size will support. Others may add any other creative or mundane uses. GNM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 How much water will one hold, George? My Uncle Fred said they made soup and stew in them. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George N. M. Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 I'd guesstimate about 2 quarts/liters. BTW, you do need to remove the liner which has all the suspension in it first. It is not like a hard hat where the shell and suspension are all one piece. I have seen field shaving stations where there were a series of mirrors with a peg beneath each mirror. The troops would scoop hot soapy water out of a 35 gallon garbage can which had an immersion heater in it with their helmets and move to the mirrors to shave. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 Being one of those crazy preppers i just so happen to have a steel pot. I keep t in a go bag along with my gas mask and MOPP suit. Here it is with the liner taken out. When i was in we had the kevlar helmets. So to heat water and the like we used a canteen cup. Try taking a bath in one of thse sometime. However being on an Abrams tank we could just start the tank and heat water on the exhaust vents of the turbine engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 I remember seeing a photo in an old National Geographic many long years ago (maybe in the early '80s?) showing some foundry workers in either Korea or Vietnam using an old M1 steel pot as a pouring ladle for molten aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted April 2 Share Posted April 2 (edited) Expecting some weather tonight so the cancelled my shift at work today. That means a free day in the shop to me. So i made a tomahawk/belt axe. Still a bit thick started with 1/4" x 1 1/2", want to draw more of a "beard" into it. 1018 flat with a 1095 bit, 1/4 x 3/4. Edit: forgot to add, it has been a long time since i made an axe of any sort so this was just a aint done one in a while kind of thing. Edited April 2 by BillyBones forgot something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goods Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 Billy, the big question is: how did the forge weld go? After that it’s all just moving material around… I finally lit the forge tonight and got to play a little. Make a spatula to go with a BBQ fork from a few months back. Not a perfect match, but it would have been way faster if I wasn’t worried about matching some what close: Made for 1/4” x 1” stock with the spatula end fagot welded to get more mass to work with. Keep it fun, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazz Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 Rojo Pedro, try sinking a bowl shape and working your facial features in. You should be able to get more relief that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 I agree in general, but I'd recommend raising the bowl rather than sinking it, especially if you're starting with thinner material. Sinking stretches out the material at the bottom of the bowl, possibly leaving too little thickness for working in the features. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyBones Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 The weld actually came out better than i wanted. I had to actually work the bit end apart little by little with a chisel to get the bit in. I can usually just pop the initial weld apart in my vise with a chisel. Nice fork and spatula, are the handles curved or is just a heavy chamfer giving it the look of being curved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 What a BUMMER of a problem, your welds stick too well. I get it but couldn't resist tossing a little at you. There are a number of welding resists you could use, it would take some special effort to clean the joint up to weld the bit but it might balance out in favor. The cleanest I can think of at the moment is "Whiteout." Or a physical barrier to welding like a little stainless steel, without special flux it isn't nearly as easy welding as steels. Just a couple skyball thoughts. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GhostTownForge Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 ive also seen people use just plain white spray paint as a welding resist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goods Posted April 3 Share Posted April 3 Billy, yes, it’s curved and chamfered: It not perfect, but the pictures make it look twisted. I guess I need better lighting? Keep it fun, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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