What did you do in the shop today?

[BillyBones]

Jennifer, while no where near as bad as my whole hand a few years back i had a truck frame fall and almost lop off a couple fingers on my left hand. My pinky was still attached by the skin underneath the knuckle. The way it was hit though instead of cutting through bone it dislocated the knuckle joint and my finger was able to be saved. It just has a permanent 90* bend at the first knuckle now. Like i said not near as bad but i find it kind of amazing when people do things like that you relearn how to do the things you have always done. Hope ya heal up good and get back on top of your game soon. 

Was out in the barn yesterday and found about a half bag of anthracite i had bought a couple years ago. So i decided to use it. Figuring it being anthracite i mixed it with about equal portion of bituminous, disconnected the hand crank blower and jammed a hair dryer into the tuyere. (i used to run electric fan so air gate and relief were all in place still)  WOW i forgot just how fast that burns through coal. And then what to do while the metal is heating? also you know how many time i started cranking my hand blower, it has become so much of a habit i do not even think about doing it anymore. Managed  to burn one piece cause my coffee cup needed a refill, and of course not thinking just walked away. 

[bluerooster]

Dang Jennifer, don't be lopping off things you might need later.  I guess physical therapy (working at the forge) is in order. And you'll have it back in no time.  

I spent the afternoon drawing and shaping the bar that I made yesterday.  It rained pretty hard last night, and all the fuel (coke) left over from yesterday was soaking wet.  Wet coke is hard to start, I didn't want to but I started it with a handfull of green. And of course it drifted straight away to the neighbors house.  But anyway, got the bar started drawing and shaping, so far no cracks, and gained about 8" in length over 10" to start.  I have a few inches Yet to work, then the tang. I may be able to work some metal from the edge into the length, by forging the bevel, I figure that by the time I get it all forged out, I'll gain another 2" overall, and get down to a reasonable thickness. 

So far, it's reasonably straight, but a bit fatter in a place or two.

[jlpservicesinc]

This type of sandwiched knife/sword you are making is a tough one.. The welding has to be even side to side and the likelihood of a warp is off the charts..    This is a great time to learn about tension and how hammer blows are used to change this tension and straighten the blade after hardening and tempering. 


Yeah, not sure if forging therapy will make it better or not.. 

It does show me the limitations at this current time and then I can make adjustments to be still functional. 

Today I forged a little again.  Few more samples..  

Ones showing how the scarf makes a difference in how the item turns out, a hinge barrel, and finished the socketed chisel. 

I also did another set of leaves and was overall happier but it's a huge struggle as the hammer is everywhere since I can't apply any kind of support in the swing.. So once the swing launches, there is no correction during the swing. 

[Nobody Special]

I'm sorry to hear about your wrist. Guessing not enough grip strength in it to try and learn to hammer with the other hand. Nerve damage is incredibly hard to come back from. That's a lovely chisel, regardless.

My shop day wasn't nearly so productive. Rainy, windy day so I mixed some new green sand, a lot finer than what I've been using. 200 lbs of 70 or 80 mesh sand, I forget, 20 lbs of bentonite, 2.2 lbs of regular white flour, and about 10 lbs of water. Mixed it up and mulled it a little bit, now gotta let it sit for a day or two before I can mull it properly.

It's barely into the fine sand range but compared to what I was using it felt like powdered sugar. For that matter, the way it wants to bunch when you first add water reminded me a lot of mixing cold butter into flour when making biscuits.

[Shainarue]

I did make a back scratcher for the trade item at this last weekend's BAM meeting. This actually started out as something for the 1/2" bar challenge but I started it out in the sloped workshop and was so befuddled with standing sideways that I messed up the dimensions of where my stops/starts were. So I decided to draw it out and make the backscratcher. The shaft is supposed to look 'organic'. I think it ended up just looking like I had really crappy technique at turning square to round, lol - but honestly, I TRIED to make it look that way   I was happy with how the leaf turned out and also happy with the heat painting. 

 

But I've mostly been trying to unpack/organize/set up the shop from it all having been packed & moved and randomly dispersed. Every time I needed something (screw driver, level, goggles, whatever) I would spend 10 minutes or more just looking for it and that is very frustrating. 

I gathered up all the angle grinders and hung them inside the studs closest to the door, so they're available for easy access. I later added more hooks to hold the various extra discs for sanding/grinding/cutting.

I gathered up all the PPE and hung it from the backside of the pegboard on the tool bench. Easily visible from the door so I'm more likely to remember to use it   (You might be able to see on the wall of angle grinders that I have the cut resistant gloves and goggles hanging WITH the cutoff grinder)

As I unpacked boxes, I started piles of hand tools and once the toolbench was full, I hung those up on the pegboard. I've had this pegboard toolbench for over 5 years and NEVER had anything hung up on it, LOL! This is a perfect opportunity for new beginnings. Here's to seeing if I am able to maintain this level of pretty organization  The table is still a mess but it's mostly fasteners and random loose bits of stuff. I will truly be in the weeds when I start going through that stuff so for now, it can wait.

I hefted the drill press up onto the workbench (I'm gonna have to get a box to stand on while using that) and got the portaband stand ready for assembly. The belt sander will probably be moved to the big workbench and that foldup workbench it's currently on will probably get folded and available for use when needed. If you squint, you can see the plastic tubs up on the corner shelves. Those are all themed boxes of tools/supplies. Like grouting, sheetrock, painting, electrical, plumbing. The big empty metal stand is going to get cut in half, slid together and welded (effectively making it half the width) and that will be the stand for the gas forge. I'm also going to weld some steel plate to the bottom of the legs and add locking swivel casters so it's easier to move in/out of the basement for forging sessions. I'm also tossing around ideas for mounting the propane tank in the underside - even if it's just for storage and not during use. I feel like maybe the propane tank shouldn't be so close to the actual forge but then I also see plenty of other setups where the tank is on a shelf under the forge so I'd love to hear other's input on that.

 

 

[George N. M.]

Shaina,  I would be hesitant to put a propane tank directly under my forge.  First, it is kind on inconvenient for reaching the valve and, second, I wouldn 't be comfortable having that much flammable gas that close to an igntion source.  It seems like that is asking for a disasterous outcome.  My gas forge is near the door to another room and I keep the 30# tank there with the fuel hose coming through the door to the forge.  I do want to get an armored hose so that if a large and hot piece of metal ever fell on the hose it wouldn't be both a way to cut the hose an an ignition source.  

G

[Steve Sells]

I have to agree with George about location of the tank, not safe that close to the fire at all

[George N. M.]

Because my father was a Captain on the Chicago Fire Department I am probably more fire safety concious than most folk.  So far, it has worked.

I'm probably more sensitive than usual these days becaue in December a $750k house in our neighborhood (about 350 yards from our house across an open field) burned to the ground.  Unkown cause but seemed to originate in the attic which makes me think electrical.  Not pretty and kind of scary.  No one hurt though but absolute total loss of everything. Older couple.  Don't know if they are going to rebuild or move on to something else.

GNM

[Shainarue]

Glad to hear my intuition was correct. I just saw enough other setups (in person) with that configuration that I stated wondering. I'll still store it underneath, but in use I'll continue as I currently do - moving the tank as far as the hose allows off to the side. I've seen another person's setup had a pole that held the hose up and away - I guess to keep tension off the connection from the hose hanging down? My hose isn't that long - just the one that came with the kit - so I don't think excess weight is an issue in my case yet.

I grew up being taught a good amount of respect toward fire safety as my mother's childhood home burned down and she lost all keepsakes. She only has a few photos of her as a kid and those were given to her later from other relatives. She also has a few photos of her parents. I lost quite a bit of keepsakes in my 20s when my apartment flooded. I haven't really been much for tangible memories since then. I felt the loss of those items and grieved, but then realized it didn't take away the memories. Now I have things like songs or constellations or flowers that remind me of people. 

Anyway, straying off topic. I'll definitely keep the propane away from the forge except when storing it. 

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

When we built our forge the driver who delivers our propane said the tank needs to be at least 10 feet from the forge. You can see the 115 pound "pig" tank with the burner hose which came off a weed burner running from under the forge to the tank which is 12 feet away. Since this picture I route the hose off the pad to the right between the cinder blocks and a piece of RR tie so it's nowhere near the forge opening and anvil or post vise.

 

The tank is to the right, just out of the picture.

I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s.
Semper Paratus

 

[Chad J.]

Jenifer, I hope you heal up well, you're one of the best smith's I've seen in here and I often recommend your channel to people asking about getting into blacksmithing.  

It was tuesday, but I've been busy but I forge a few hearts for valentines day and a new skinning knife.   On Saturday I FINALLY managed to get a forge weld out of my propane forge.  The 100lb tank doesn't like being run at 12 to 15 psi in winter but I made a 4 glass wine holder on Saturday.  Now that I know I can do it, it's going to happen more often. 

 

 

[JHCC]

Started another repoussé project, of the Ukrainian Tryzub (trident) for a friend of a friend. 

[bluerooster]

Got some forge time in today. Got the blade rough shaped, and still have the tang to draw out and shape. Also a little more work on the edge.   This thing is taking way too much time.  And the tedious time consuming part is yet to come. But I'm trying to keep it the same thickness on all sides.  Which is difficult to do when everything is all welded together.  So far the blade is about 16" long, and I still have the tang to draw out some.  So far I've got about 3 forging sessions tied up in it.

 Now on to the question of the day; Why izzit that this time of year, my right hand is inundated with painful, dry cracks.   The left hand never gets cracks. I use "Working Hands" after the cracks, mabe I should keep it on at all times prior to cracks.  It sure does help them to heal up quickly though.

  Y'all keep up the nice work.

[White Fox Forge]

I cut out a newish design of knife. The steel is the usual, 8670 and the handle scales will be waterbuck horn. I boiled the horn in hydraulic oil for an hour and it got soft enough to clamp straight. I'm probably going to try a hamon on the blade.

[Julianb]

Hello!

I thought I'd just throw a few pictures in between all the really enjoyable to see pieces here.

To practice forging uniform pieces of the same shape, I attempted a small hook rack. The hooks are made from 8mm round mild steel, the plate is some old wagon wheel rim.

The riveting is still to be done.

To be able to make rivets from small round stock, I practices with the power hammer a little, drew out a small piece of mild steel. I drilled the holes to try out the automatic feed of the drill press.

 

Cheers!

Julian

[BillyBones]

17 hours ago, bluerooster said:

Why izzit that this time of year, my right hand is inundated with painful, dry cracks.

Blue, are you right handed? Do you use a propane forge? I used to get red, itchiy, cracked skin on  my hand and forearm from the IR of the forge. Or i am assuming that is what it is. If you are right handed i would guess that it may be becuase your right hand spends much more time near the forge than your left. 

[jlpservicesinc]

Chad, thanks..    Love the hearts and hair pin.. 

I'm not sure exactly what will happen with the hand/wrist.  I keep forging but it's awfully painful.  Today I picked up the large hammer and it really yelled at me. 

Peening is where it's the worse.. Having to control the hammer in flight to the target is excruciating. 

With that here are the items I forged and finished today.   The handled cold cut.. Yes, this is a cold cut, not a hot cut. 

Tempered correctly I've never seen the need for a wide cold chisel affair..  This is forged a little thinner than I'd like but will be dressed back more after a few uses.  Wanna see if I can get away with the edge being so thin with very little side to side support the blade has a () shape. 

Forged from 1.25sq 4140 by hand the eye did the old fashioned round punch way..   I filmed it for a video.. 

I'm going to be at the ABANA conference competing in the grill comp and we are making/using different tools for others in our group to try. 

As forged and then a little cleanup.  Still not a fan of going at things with the grinder but have my new-to-me Bader clear space running with VFD..  Just wired it so get to test out. 

The chisel was all done by hand steeled mild steel. Socket welded with floating mandrel vs horn.  No grinder here..  I did the initial cutting edge on the grinder though. 

 

[bluerooster]

Yep right handed. Coal forge. Even at work, which is where the cracks start, and get bad.  I do a lot of sanding both wet and dry, with both hands equally. Only the right hand gets the cracks.

[bluerooster]

Thought I got finished at the forge, then went to the warm shop for filing, and grinding. Everything is going along good, until I found out that I truly was not finished at the forge.  I should have forged the bevel some more, then I wouldn't have filed through the HC while filing the bevel. Other than that, and a couple of hammer marks that may or may not stay, it was going well. Straight, no cracks, but about an inch short of what I was shooting for.

Here it is, as forged

Then started filing it

 The sharpie denotes the file through.

I may go ahead and finish it up anyway but I doubt if I will put the fittings on it.  I'll make another I guess, and do it a bit differently.  Oh, and I need some new files these are getting dull.

Jennifer, as always your work looks amazing! Even with a bad hand, you can do some fine work.  There's a Japanese blade smith, Matsuba Konimasa, who is left handed.  But his master made him use his right hand, because "there are no left handed blade smiths".   He went on to become one of the greatest blade smiths in Japan.   Just a thought... 

[jlpservicesinc]

I forge with the left hand too.. But it's just roughing stuff out..  Sadly I'm just getting to be at forging speed after all those years away.. 

only to get this far and the accidents..   Eh, I'll push thru or I won't..   Time will tell.. 

So I have to ask because of where you are at..   

Your trying to make a Tanto?  Wakasashi?  with traditional HC outer skin with inner softer metal? 

Don't take this the wrong way..  Your kinda going about it the hardway..  Or the ultimate skill way..  

I often lose heart when I see someone trying something in which the chances of success are very low..  

The best way is to forge a Sunobe and forge from there..  Put in all the correct markers and lines and then go from there. 

I'm a huge fan of "Success breeding success" and within a few blades, you would be right where it would be much easier. 

Way, way back I had experimented with taking the little shortcuts and what I learned is, that there are no real shortcuts if the desired outcome is something that is "known"..   IE chasing after.. 

Way, way back. I had done the very thing you are doing on more than a few occasions..  A few of the blades I had forged right thru the HC on one side.  Yes it is possible.  At welding heat, each blow of the hammer has to be counted.. Also a flat faced hammer is preferred vs rounded face unless trying to manipulate the grain.. 

Anyhow, keep after it.  

[Frosty]

Both my hands, especially fingers crack sometimes bleed whether at the anvil or doing things around the house. I use a lot of neosporin cream for hand lotion and have a prescription for a generic silver sulfadine cream similar to Silvadine. 

I still have to slather them and put on a pair of rubber gloves to get the cracks healed and closed. I don't recall what these gloves are made of but surgical or neoprene gloves will be softened by the creams I use and don't last. 

Anyway, mine crack and it really doesn't matter what I'm doing unless I'm working with solvents or washing constantly like when I cook. Cross contaminating food is a major pet peeve of mine. After a meal that requires prep and maybe a couple pans going my kitchen hand towel is usually almost wet.

Frosty The Lucky.

[LarryFahnoe]

Our (wife's and mine) hands get cracks in the winter as well. While not a means of prevention, super glue works well to close the cracks up. I find that if I spread the crack open, drip in a little cyanoacrylate & then leave it alone for 15-20 min it does a good job. Generally speaking, less is more when it comes to super glue, so a thin coating around the cracked area rather than thick is helpful. Done right it seems to heal up well and certainly beats the discomfort of the original crack! I believe super glue was used during Viet Nam as a field expedient wound closure.

--Larry

[JHCC]

On 2/16/2024 at 3:34 PM, JHCC said:

Started another repoussé project, of the Ukrainian Tryzub (trident) for a friend of a friend. 

All done:

[jlpservicesinc]

John, very nice.. Steady improvements.. 

[LarryFahnoe]

The subtlety of the over/under and asymmetry are quite nice. Well done John!

--Larry