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I Forge Iron

What did you do in the shop today?


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Well not today all but.

 

Did some upgrade on hood mase it sidedraft and used some rivets instead of screws for it, and i attached handle to hammer 

But didint used wedges.

I dont need wedges.

Question is how i did it 

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Ran into a leather worker at the artisans market that asked about closers for leather book covers.   After a quick discussion about what she was looking for I said I'd see what i could come up with.  Well 20 minutes in the shop and some 1/4" scraps later.  She paid me for these and 2 more.  

 

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Yes, no, maybe depending on the smith.  I generally use a 1 kg hammer; but at times I use 3 kg hammer depending on the project and how in shape my hammer arm is.  I know a smith that commonly uses a 4 kg hammer.  It also depends on if I am using it 1 handed or striking for someone with 2 hands with a longer handled and heavier hammer.

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16 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Yes, no, maybe depending on the smith.  I generally use a 1 kg hammer; but at times I use 3 kg hammer depending on the project and how in shape my hammer arm is.  I know a smith that commonly uses a 4 kg hammer.  It also depends on if I am using it 1 handed or striking for someone with 2 hands with a longer handled and heavier hammer.

I plan using iz for single hand 2 kilos o have one kill to.

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Fired the forge for the first time in a long time today.  I'd been having trouble with inconsistent forge welds lately, and as a result managed to seperate the top of dragons head from the rest when opening it's mouth. So, today I did a drop tong weld, twice, for practice. Then onto another dragon head. Got it done and decided to go ahead and make the rear legs. I already had one made, so I made the second one. It's a tad bit off, but I'll be able to make it right after getting them attached to the body.  Shut down the forge, and back to the shop to get these parts put together.  Head and neck installed, hind legs installed. All that's left is wings, and front legs, then all the tedious bits (claws, scales etc.)

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All this talk of moving machinery, rings, and loose articles of clothing, reminds me of why my uncle never wore a straight neck tie.  In the 60's he was working for NASA.  There was a "uniform" code, all workers were required to wear white shirt and tie. His job required him to be in close proximity to moving machinery at times, where straight ties can cause problems for the person wearing it.  He managed to get around that rule, by wearing a bow tie, he had his whole department wear them.  They were referred to as "The bow tie gang".  He designed and built the ulage motors for the Saturn V. 

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On 3/12/2022 at 12:32 PM, Chad J. said:

Ran into a leather worker at the artisans market that asked about closers for leather book covers.   After a quick discussion about what she was looking for I said I'd see what i could come up with.  Well 20 minutes in the shop and some 1/4" scraps later.  She paid me for these and 2 more.  

would be interesting to see them in action.  How do they work? They seem quite large.

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Had a friend come over after 2pm and he helped me run the 110 and 220 lines from the east side of the shop to the west side.  Steel conduit already in place and I can say that 12 gauge is a lot easier to run than 10 gauge!   Already have the breaker in the box; just need a few more piece parts and I can finish off and turn the main breaker back on!  I had to open both 10'x10' doors to get some breeze through the shop as I didn't want to take off my Tshirt to stay comfortable.

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Aaaamax, not really all that large.   The on is maybe 2.5 inches long.  Like I said,  she was happy. 

Made three big S hooks with basket twists.   They're each about 16 inches long.   Also heat treated 3 blades, forged out one of those funky Japanese carving knives from a piece of leaf spring drop off and spent some time grinding on what will be a bollocks dagger some time in the future.   All while watching a huge pork shoulder cook on my smoker.  

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I got the "one light bulb" in the shop changed out to a receptacle and put in a 5000 lumen LED 4' long shop light; now to add a second one for the other plug...What was neat is that the light hangs from short chains and the s hooks on the chains fit over the edge of the C purlins  near the peak of the shop so I could get the light over  12' up.  Needs a diffuser though...  I hope to finish off the wiring on the north end of the shop tomorrow and be able to plug in my Bader finally.

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On 3/13/2022 at 4:38 PM, Arthur210 said:

I refined the boss and shaped the jaws of my new V-bit tongs. 

It has taken me about 4 hours and 5 kg of charcoal so far.

How does your forge look foe charcoal is it side blast?

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Thomas, you are going to love the LED shop lights.  Aside from low electricity usage, they come on to full brightness in cold weather unlike the fluorescents......but then again, cold weather is not one of your concerns where you are, is it? LOL

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I fully endorse LED lights! One 4' LED puts out more light than four 4' fluorescents and work in the cold. There was a hesitation at -10f of maybe almost a second but the electricity may have been feeling sluggish. I love the things.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I went with dimmable LED lighting in my shop and they’re great, but a little pricey. It’s fantastic working in the bright light until your trying to carefully judging just the right temperature for quenching or if there’s still enough residual heat for tempering… Only thing I would change is to have the dimmer by the forge and not by the entrance to the shop.

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