I'm looking for some ideas on creating a better quenching tank.  I have an old Oxygen D tank that was cut open, it works "OK" but have knocked it over a few times (glad it only had water in it). Looking to see what everyone else came up with. Don't really wanna go the 5 gal bucket route tho but...

For water I use a 30 gallon metal barrel. For oil I use a larger ammo can. 

For oil we also use a large 50 cal ammo can and a deep sink for the water.slack tub. It has a drain to outside for emptying it.

While making the stand for it.

 

I use a standard size galved metal bin, plus a little watering can for spot quenching/middle of bar quenching/cooling things down whilst locked in the vise etc

Large ammo cans are great for oil quench tanks.  I prefer the 30mm/rocket cans because they're low to the ground and have a good amount of capacity.  I don't do swords so there's no need for a tall tank like you see in most of the videos.  

If you want to keep your O2 cylinder, you can always build a small stand for it so you don't have to worry about it tipping over.  Put it on wheels and you can move it out of the way when you don't need it.

I have one of those old washing coppers that just happened to fit into a hollow log. Ideal.

It's in the far corner of the forge in this pic:

 

I got lucky and scored a stainless steel 30 gallon drum which has served me well. 

Another idea I have seen is an old vertical air compressor tank with the top cut off. 

Ausfire I love your pictures this time of year, here I set today in the middle of an Ice Storm and a frozen quench bucket while you have green trees and sunshine.  The old cars in the background are pleasing as well.  I bought a 40mm ammo can last month for $15 for oil quenching.

I have an old oxygen tank as well. I welded angle iron legs to it so it wouldn't tip over.

12 hours ago, Joel OF said:

I use a standard size galved metal bin

Did you have to do anything with the seams to seal it? 

I bought one for that very purpose, but it's press fit rather than welded. 

I tried sealing it with normal white silicone, but it didn't stick, then I tried some high temperature stuff. While it did stick, turns out it's water soluble. 

I had the same problem with a brand new galvanized pale I bought, it leaked on all the seams including the bottom.  I used Dap Butyl-Flex Adhesive, this is the stuff they use on Rain Gutters and my steel shop roof, it can be bought in many places in the US, the big box stores for one.    This pale is my water quench bucket that is now frozen, it has been in use for about a year and a half and just started leaking alittle, this fall.  It froze last year too and I thought that was it for the fix but it held for a few more months.  Can you tell me why I would want to buy a galvanized pale that did not hold water?

this is a good thread.  I thank you all for the ideas.  I had just last week decided to re purpose a motor of an air compressor for a grinder, the tank has a hole in it, but I can patch that to hold water.  It is a horizontal tank, but I can stand it on end and fashion some feet to keep it that way.  Now I just need to find a re purpose for the compressor head. 

I have an ammo can I could use for oil.  I had thought I'd want something bigger, but as I think about it, it will be a long time before I'm up for quenching anything larger than that.  I aspire to make axes and kitchen knives some day.  an ammo can should do the trick.  thanks again.

I made my slack tub from a helium tank and the aluminum frame of an old speaker. There's some wire cloth inside to keep dropped pieces from hitting (and puncturing) the bottom.

I use an old steel toolbox for oil.  I like the ability to close lid to keep stuff out of the oil when not in use.  I have a metal 5 gallon pail for water.

I cut the top off of a beer keg that was give to me. They’re stainless and pretty easy to come by. 

4 hours ago, JustAnotherViking said:

Did you have to do anything with the seams to seal it?

No.

I've always thought that an easy make.shift quench bucket / vinegar pickleing tub could be a watertight tarpaulin roughly shaped to fill another container that's porous.

Anyone every use one of those blue expansion tanks that go between your plumbing and your water well?  I scored one and my thinking is that I can cut the top off it then hinge the top so it has a lid.

That should work well. The tanks I have worked with use a heavy rubber bladder inside that is tough to remove until you cut the steel ring holding it in. This one we cut the bottom off with a reciprocating saw but the top would be the same. Might even leave the bladder in but cut the top of it out.

That’s not a bad idea. I’ve got a few of those laying around here, might have to see what the insides look like. I like having a couple of different slack tubs so I don’t have to walk/run too far.

On 12/29/2017 at 1:08 PM, MotoMike said:

Now I just need to find a re purpose for the compressor head. 

Heavy duty airbrush?  

I use an old galvanised diesel fuel tank with the top cut off for my quench tank......don't worry, it's perfectly safe, it's been full of water for the last ten years. I've made a mesh tray for it so I can drop smaller parts in and lift them out later with out having to go fishing.  I've not thus far had the need for an oil quench.

Thanks Irondragon.  I knew about the rubber bladder and wondered if it was a bugger to get out.  I like the idea of having a top on a hinge so if there is a problem I can be a few feet away and shut the lid with a long piece of stock instead of having to walk over there and try to put a top over it.

Milk can I got two a big and a small one they got lids on them made well and heavy enough were they wont fall over easy 

A small (20 gallons?) steel (oil) drum from my mechanic's garage. I fitted it with a block heater on the side.

There's a video on YouTube of Philippine blacksmiths making sugarcane knives; they use a section of rubber tire elevated on a bamboo frame as their quench tank.

Here’s a screenshot of the smith doing an edge quench:

(Full video HERE.)