MotoMike

finished the draw knife I started last fall.

Grayson, is there enough steel there to do what you want. I'd think you'd want a camp knife at least 1/8, and at least an inch tall, that means you'd likely have enough steel there to get it out to about 4 inches total. maybe I'm missing something. I've notices in using coil spring that it is tough as heck to get strated, then all of a sudden it starts moving. Have not yet used leaf. I probably should.

oooh, I like it . Do you have any video of it working and moving metal? Is it quite loud? 7 hp. 3phase or single? circuit requirement?

AKM Sure like the look of that forge. is your volume 350 cu in or less? I think AnotherCurtis and IDF&C are right on getting that stuff out of there. I like the angle and position of the burner mount. though I'd probably put the mounting bolts a bit farther apart from top row to bottom. burner should impinge on the floor and should swirl. Keep us posted.

Hi Jen. I drew out the reins a bit more so I had enough to go through the handles. figured I poke them through and put a copper washer over them and peen them over. a wise smith once told me that they are usually peened on. Thanks Ted. No, I wish I did. that was about 7/8 rail spring when I started. So... you know.

That is sweet Ted. an excellent idea. I've only one monkey tool and have on occasion had trouble getting the rivet out of it. your rig certainly would solve that problem. hardened and tempered my draw knife today. seen normalizing here before the quench. had to bring the reigns in so it will fit in my toaster oven.

Latticino, Don't know if it is true or close to true, but it is the story I believe.

Not sure the cost of the chemicals required to home brew your own reradiating kiln wash, but Plistix is not expensive comared to ITC100 and some claim it is superior.

looks very cool. can we see a pic with a guitar in it ?

Looks good. my first, I'm told looks stone age

I quite like your version. The ones pictured as inspiration and from JHCC look to be more welding and fabrication. I could be wrong. Yours are blacksmith work. It made me think, most of the things I make for outside use I put the blacksmith finish of boiled linseed oil applied while hot enough to smoke the oil. My forge could not handle such large pieces I think and wonder about how one could finish these pieces. Very nice work.

Looks like a great set up. Let's see that herb knife

the hammer hanger from earlier in use. I gave it to my buddy last night. He told me that the original owner would have been 100 today. weird.

Ben, that has to be the prettiest hammer I've seen. I think using it will only make it more beautiful

Scotty your OP did not ask for advice ore invite comment on your work. As has been pointed out to me in the past, with so many viewers, we can't count on them all being as smart as you. the old timers feel obligated to point out things that are dangerous, if not for your benefit, for others. I like to show respect to the craft by doing it as safely as I can. Do you seek critique of your work?

Glenn perhaps you've had better luck with them than me. early in my research, I used their online info forms seeking info. basically saying that their specs were not clear in the cartridge applications and asking which offered protection from metal fume poisioning specifically that from welding corrigated steel. after a week I got no answer so asked again. to date, no response. my research continued and I'm now satisfied that P100 will do the trick. my specific application was to repair some galvanized antenna tower, so concentrations would not have been high anyway, but I wanted to be safe. I recall my dad having been dosed when I was a kid and I don't want it. MBForge. sure looks like rust to me.

I'd be flattered.

Thanks Jen, that means a lot.

A buddy collects hammers. Not a smith though. has an antique 16 pound sledge that he has hanging on a bunch of deck screws. had to add more as the weight bent the originals. I knocked out a hammer hanger for him.

the respirators won't help with co2 build up. Did you mean CO? they won't help with that either. I think it is a good practice to not forge things that produce metal fume hazards. Zinc on galvanized being the one I have heard of quite a lot. My understanding is that the P100 standard is that it will stop 99.7% of particulate that is .3 microns or larger. I am not an expert but have read on the subject. Galvanized zinc coatings vaporize at forging and welding temps when it does, it immediately combines with oxygen and makes zinc oxide which is a white powder. breathing it gives you metal fume poisoning that you don't want. From my study all the particulate from this process is in the 5 micron range and NIOSH rates p100 possibly others to be used to prevent MFP. Don't know that respirator, but most of the good ones have some sort of end of life indicator. the ones that don't rely on some chemical reaction do do their job are really filters that are good until they get plugged.

sections here gas forges 101 and burners 101. In the FB page Blacksmithing for beginners is a files section that has a scholarly build of a gas forge that is pretty good except for a couple things we could discuss after you read it. If you are up for the build, I'd say you can build a better forge than typically comes from most makers for far less. I think I have about 240 in mine. good luck. Good to post your location in your profile.

Now I know what to call it!

Ben, the Damy's awesome! Das... It's 5 oclock somewhere. Love the beach scene

thanks foundryguy

JHCC and JPL, thanks