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About stockmaker

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    Burbank, WA
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Metal Working, Bird Hunting

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  1. I'd say you learned something by reading this forum. I hope you are going to insulate, without it you will only heat to a dull orange at best. Looks good, let us know how the burners perform. You may need to rotate your burners slightly to allow each T to gets it's own air. I would have them facing across the forge to avoid gas's from the doors.
  2. Mikey, loved your explanation! Wow. I have a question for you. Shouldn't the adjustments you suggest be performed when the burner is insides the forge? Maybe a better question is what do you suggest be done prior to mounting in the forge and what adjustments be done after. Thanks
  3. Dave, I like reading what professional blacksmiths encounter and how they react to the needs of their work. It helps me with my understanding of my needs which are for the most part on a much different scale, but the bottom line still being the same.... economy and performance. thank you for sharing your thoughts on this subject. I have to agree with everything you have said except the cost of switching to a blown burner for my 500ci forge. I calculate the cost at $360 to modify my forge, that includes the blower, pipe/fittings, more refractory, more IR coating, and the burner refractory as well. After reading your posts I have decided to spend the money and make the switch. I don't know how long it will take me to recover the costs of the switch, but I know I want more performance and easy of adjustments.
  4. I say YES to the dog head how to, I was going to ask how you did it but did not want to bother you. Your roofing hammer picture reminded me I use to have a roofing hammer, have not seen it in years.
  5. Sorry about that, I forgot about the labels you had put on the drawing while I was on line looking for information on the starter circuit. There is a way to find the starter circuit without the internal labels in place but it takes an ohm meter and some disassemble of the motor (I think). If you know anyone that does Heating/Air-conditioning repair they may be able to give you some pointers. Although mounting on the other side of the grinder works for me too.
  6. You did not say what kind of a starter circuit this motor employ's, but I am going to assume it is capacitor start. What you need to do is reverse the wires that go to the auxiliary circuit. The Aux. circuit is the starter winding circuit, once the motor is kick started the primary winding's do not care which way the motor rotates. I have copied a drawing which I hope transfers when I post this. The problem you have is finding the Aux circuit wiring. This drawing for a capacitor start motor says that V1 & V2 are the terminals you need to reverse. Don't change the metal links from vertical to horizontal you will short out the primary line and get to see a nice bright light for a short time.
  7. OK, I think I know how to pronounce Heelerau, but now is Gidgegannup said? Thanks for the pictures, very enjoyable to see.
  8. MIG Tip Alignment. From experience I can tell you it is possible to tap the T Fitting/Brass Bushing at a slight angle. You can check that by watching the end of the MIG tip as you screw the bushing/w/MIG Tip into the T Fitting, it should not bobble. I am talking about the treads you tap into the T Fitting as well as the new treads into the brass bushing for the MIG tip, if the end of the MIG tip does not screw in straight while you watch, one or both holes are tapped at an angle. I really don't know how accurate this alignment has to be, but if it is close to perfect it is one less thing to troubleshoot.
  9. Congratulation Andy, looks like you have a functioning burner, good job.
  10. I did exactly the same as Michael Cochran suggests, he must be some kind of genius. I built this little shelf 25 years ago and never found a reason to replace it.
  11. ddbow33, my understanding is that you plan to use a schedule 80 nipple in place of the brass bushing shown above. This schedule 80 nipple is covered in Frosty's directions and as far as I know there have been no problems with it's use. But like Mikey says, stick with the directions. Good luck. Sorry the picture I had did not copy to the forum.
  12. OK, sounds like you got it covered.
  13. Hi EnglishDave, I have included a picture of my 1.5 year old store bought forge. It came with just an uncoated ceramic blanket which I used for about 9 months. At that time I coated with Metrikote which only helped for a short while. My answer to your question ..... " is OK to have Kaowool immediately in contact with the hot forge interior gases?" is two fold. First it is ok to do it that way, it will not kill you (from what I have read) and the forge should work to at least orange heat. Second, it is safer to coat it, as ceramic blanket does give off microscopic fibers that can linger in the air of your shop for a long long time, My forge is in a simi outdoor area so I put up with the uncoated situation for a time, but as you can see from my forge the blanket takes a beating during use. I felt my forge was already too small and coating with refractory would have made that problem worse, now after building a new forge I think I should have tried a 1/4" layer. I am not sure if your forge is made to be adjustable? If so Kaowool blocks may be the answer, but they are fragile, they give off a power when broken, I have a case so I know from personal experience. Hope this helps.
  14. The length does not matter from a performance standpoint as it is just an extension of the propane line, shorter is better from a structure strength stand point, which also effects overall safety. You do not want the threads of the Sch. 80 pipe to protrude to far into the T, it should self lock at about 1/8" inside the T. What do you plan to use as a propane line? Hose or pipe? The connection to the Sch. 80 pipe from the supply line needs to be planned as well.
  15. Nice little hammer Derek. Having the right hammer for the job is not only important in blacksmithing, but in other endeavors as well. The right little hammer is as important to me as the right chisel or file. I have wondered lately if there is a market them at craft shows? A picture of my workbench this morning.