MC Hammer

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About MC Hammer

  • Rank
    From Stones & Bones to Iron

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  • Gender
  • Location
    South Central New York
  • Interests
    Flintknapping, Blacksmithing, Indian Artifact Collecting

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  1. MC Hammer

    Wobbly Bottom

    Interesting. I've never heard of this. I wonder if it has something to do with it being outside? I haven't noticed any rust developing on mine. I guess I'll just watch for it, but I can't see it doing any noticeable damage to it.
  2. MC Hammer

    Anvil Identity?

    Yup, just don't put a lot of pressure on the angle grinder that has the wire brush wheel on it. Let the wire brush do the work. Oh and wear safety glasses to. Those wires fly off at a million miles an hour and have embedded in my skin before. You don't want that to happen with your eyes. The respirator is a great idea too. I always use one when cleaning up an anvil.
  3. MC Hammer

    Anvil Identity?

    Looks like there's a fair amount of grey paint still left on it. I notice you are using cleaners or something on it. The best way is to take that wire wheel on an angle grinder and remove all that rust and paint. You may find other layers of paint under the grey and it looks like there's red paint under the grey. You'll be surprised what rust and paint will hide as far as markings go. On my Fisher, I didn't even notice the weight mark because it was so rusty. Once the wire wheel passed over the foot it was very clear. On my German Trenton I didn't notice the weight until the rust was taken off with the wire wheel. It's really the only way to clean up an anvil besides electrolysis.
  4. MC Hammer

    Wobbly Bottom

    So far people have been talking about caulk and construction adhesive, but I think 100% pure silicone caulking works the best. It's tough, and it has held up just fine. I wouldn't use lead either. The key with these situations is to not overthink it. Keep it simple.
  5. MC Hammer

    Anvil Identity?

    Funny how that happens Thomas. If you could see her now she's grown a few more hammers since that picture.
  6. For the money you could probably find yourself a nice old one again that hasn't been messed with like yours was. You don't need a 200 # or even a 300# anvil to do good shop work. I have 179 # Trenton that does everything with a 160 # Fisher as a second anvil. Maybe your plan should be to look for 150# - 180# anvil and use the money from the sale to get a decent one in that range. Just a thought. Or maybe look for a used new one so you aren't paying the top price. Just another thought. Deals are out there if you look really, really hard.
  7. MC Hammer

    Anvil Identity?

    Great find on the anvil! If you want to clean it up, wash it good with soap & water then let it dry completely before taking a wire wheel on an angle grinder to the surface. The wire wheel will remove the rust without removing the patina or the precious steel of the anvil. Do not grind the surface or the edges until you've forged on it for a year or more. You'll know by them if a little nick here or there affects your forging. Once you've wire wheeled it, wash it again with soap & water then after it dries completely put a light coat of oil on it. I use new 5W 30 motor oil. Don't put used motor oil on it. Some spray them with clear acrylic while others used boiled linseed oil. I prefer the new motor oil. Don't press down hard when wire wheeling the anvil clean, let the wheel do the work and wear safety glasses for your eyes and gloves on your hands. That wire wheel will remove your hide something fierce. Here's what the above process did for my anvil: Before: After:
  8. MC Hammer

    Decided to take the plunge.

    Welcome Brandon. There's so much good information here to read. I know I just read and read for months before joining. Your forge and railroad track will get you started. What has won my wife's heart over is all the useful hooks and things I've made for the house. My first knife was a size of kitchen knife that she needed. She really sees the usefulness of this craft and hobby. When I do all the cabinet pulls I think it will just be the icing on the cake.
  9. MC Hammer

    Magnetic Blacksmith Shop Arm

    Mine is from harbor frieght but it's pretty strong. It held a hammer Saturday, I thought I'd put my 1.5 # hammer on it to see how it did. Just enough magnetic power to hold it, It holds tongs with just enough power that I can pluck it off without moving the arm or having to drag it off.
  10. MC Hammer

    Magnetic Blacksmith Shop Arm

    I forged all day Saturday and didn't have any issues with scale. I wonder if yours is higher so you are dragging the tool across the magnet and that's what is magnetizing your tools? Mine is lower so I pull my tools almost directly off the arm with minimum dragging if any.
  11. MC Hammer

    Magnetic Blacksmith Shop Arm

    Hmmm, I haven't noticed this with my tools. I just forged yesterday and everything is fine with my tools so far. I even have tongs I've stuck on there and so far nothing. Is it a game changer for you Das in terms of it's usability?
  12. MC Hammer

    200 year old colonial tongs

    I have to agree with the others. Retire those tong and keep them as is. It is difficult to date tongs. Many of the antique tongs I use could very well be really old or not. The only ones I can determine age are the ones stamped "Champion" on them.
  13. MC Hammer

    What did you do in the shop today?

    I like the axe thing Das. I've been really wanting to make one lately but I still have my first knife to finish. Like you, I don't have a decent grinder so it's slow going.
  14. MC Hammer

    Fishing knives, Christmas gifts

    Beautiful! Nicely done. Who wouldn't be happy receiving one of those for Christmas?
  15. MC Hammer

    First knife shape object

    Having only made my first knife a month or so ago I can tell you that the easy part is done Normalizing, quenching, tempering and grinding is where all the work is. I think that if this is the first thing you've ever forged that you did pretty well. I never recommend starting forging with knife making because all the skills I've learned since starting forging were needed by me when I made my first knife. I'd recommend grinding all the scale off and looking for cracks before you quench it just to see how you did. One rookie mistake is hammering high carbon steel when it's far too cool (red heat or below) which can cause stress fractures. Grinding will also allow you to correct the blade shape. Don't grind a right angle where the tang meets the blade as that will cause a stress area. Leave your blade thickish when quenching as this will help your warping. Finish the knife and show us pictures. Above all, be proud of what you did. How many people in your neighborhood forged a metal blade this week? Guaranteed probably zero. Don't get discouraged by the process and keep going with it. I would recommend making some hooks and things for your shop just to practice hammer control and drawing out and other base skills.