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I Forge Iron

MC Hammer

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About MC Hammer

  • Rank
    From Stones & Bones to Iron

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Central New York
  • Interests
    Flintknapping, Blacksmithing, Indian Artifact Collecting

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  1. I have the same gas forge. You'll really like it a lot. I've used that side door so many times for odd shaped stuff.
  2. Dreams, Anvils in America puts that anvil in the year 1903. They started their serial numbers in 1898 presumably with 0. It looks like you have one of 8,000 or so anvils that were made that year. If I'm right, I guess that would qualify as an "early" Trenton anvil. We tend to think of "early" anvils as some of the first of it's kind made, or at least I do. The early Trenton's were the German Trenton's like this one. Notice the "feet" on the base? That's a dead ringer for an early Trenton, but Peter Wright anvils have the same feet and some think the early Trenton bases might have be made by Peter Wright or were surplus purchased or something along those lines. The early Trenton's have the diamond logo and the weight is between the legs like the below picture. That's a great story about your grandpa's shop. It's good that you kept this anvil. For being in a service station it's in pretty good shape. Most service stations weld on anvils and pound cold metal on them causing terrible damage that we all have to live with today. Hope this helps.
  3. It's quite common to see that on the side of anvils and is not necessarily a sign of delamination of the hard steel face. If you just look at 100 anvils you will see similar marks on 98 of them most likely. If you tap the face with a hammer you should hear a "Ping-ping-ping". If it sounds dead there or makes a different buzzing ring sound you have a problem. It's why it is so important to do proper testing on an anvil prior to purchasing it.
  4. Very true Thomas! I'm thinking since they are students, they will be learning with small stuff.
  5. Remember to always have the anvil, forge and post vise set up to work in a triangular pattern. It's really more efficient to have each of those important tools a step or two away from each other. I'd think several stations set-up like that for students.
  6. I feel your pain Owen. I had to tear down a cabin on the land we bought this year, move all the parts, and rebuild it. I was stuck with a lot of the cob-job things the guy who built it did. I corrected as many as I could along the way. Greater than 7/12 pitch on my roof. I am worried about your pitch though because you can get a pretty severe snow load in Maine. That load transfers to your walls so you'll need to look at rafter ties and such to keep those walls from wanting to spread out under a full snow load. Anymore updates?
  7. Glad to help you get started. If it were me, I'd strip the blue paint off it like the one in the video and secure it really well to a wood stump. For the price, it should beat a piece of railroad track any day. The guy in the video would have told you if he thought it was a piece of junk. Let us know how it goes using it.
  8. If you want a cheap anvil that is better than a railroad track or a cheap Harbor Freight anvil, check this review of a cheaper 66 pound anvil by an experienced blacksmith: I was kinda surprised that it performed well enough for someone to use it to get started. I hate to see people go the railroad track route. I've heard so many guys talk with great regret all the years they spent using them and struggling to move metal. Again, not a great anvil but better than many other alternatives and it's affordable.
  9. Be patient. It took me over a year to find my first anvil and it was a lot of work to finally meet up with the guy and get it. Since then 160# Fisher fell into my shop for $50. I agree with Glenn, always calculate the price per pound when looking at an anvil. Anything above $3 per pound should be approaching pristine condition. When people pay these ridiculous prices it just keeps fueling the craziness that has driven even common blacksmithing tools up to prices that just don't make sense to those of us who use the tools. The #1 thing I hear from people now when I tell them I'm a blacksmith is "Man, those anvils are worth some money now." That's just the common guy, so anything from an antique store will be even more. When I talk to junk store and antique store owners they say this a lot: "Anvils, well yeah I've had a few and sold them. I made good money on them to. Know where I can find anymore?" So if the common guy thinks they are worth big money and the antique stores want to make good money on them, the end purchaser will see crazy prices. Keep looking at barn sales, garage sales, and of course use the TPAAAT method because it works. Somewhere a guy has stubbed his toe for the last time on grandad's old anvil he has sitting under the workshop table and you need to be the guy there first to "help" his toe feel better. This guy will mention at morning coffee at the diner and the waitress there will remember that you told her you were looking for an anvil and the rest is history. TPAAAT works just like that.
  10. @jlpservicesincThey do seem really "hard" and I think that's why the edges get chipped like they do. Mine has really great rebound like in the 9.5 - 9.7 return on a 10 inch drop.
  11. Looks to me like a Frankenstein fix to a cheaper anvil. That plate on top looks like it was welded (sort of) on top of the anvil after the original face fell off and that another piece was welded above the waist where perhaps there was some imperfection there??? Not much else we can tell you without seeing some numbers or letters giving us a clue as to the maker.
  12. She's a beauty. I have a 179 # German Trenton. Mine doesn't say "Germany" on it so I believe mine might be one of the earliest of German Trenton's. Yours is in a little bit better shape than mine, but you can't beat the beautiful rebound. Here's a picture of mine:
  13. JHCC, yes those are the exact shears that were given to me. Look to be the same size too. Heavy as heck. Nice to know I can cut up to 16 Ga sheet metal with them. I won't use them to hot cut anything. I feared exactly what Latticino said above and figured I'd ask around and see if anyone used them for hot cutting. Sometimes you can get away with things and usually others will know. I still like them and the price was right
  14. Anything is possible to do with the right tools and materials. Is it worth the time? Probably not. You will spend a lot of time and resources trying to recreate the wheel so to speak. If you are just looking for a challenge to see if you can do it, go for it, but if you intend on using it and diving into blacksmithing, Pnut it right, you can make a simple improvised anvil to get started.
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