BIGGUNDOCTOR

Irondragon, I always wanted to take one of those old satellite dishes and cover it with mirror pieces for a solar heater.

Chad J. - having a GF who looks for rusty items like that for you is rare.

Cyanide is also used, but not DIY friendly for obvious reasons.

The election sign wire frames I have seen are an H shape, and maybe 1/8" wire. Pretty spindly. Everything else is a banner strung across rebar driven into the ground.

Congratulations! I believe 15mm would be fairly thick for that weight. I have a 138# PW that has a divot in the face near the horn. I also see a lot of PW's with a lot of sway, so I am not totally sold on them as being fantastic anvils, but still really nice. Others have said the hardening was kind of hit or miss with them, some are great, some less so. If you are not swinging a 10# sledge on it every day you should be fine. It doesn't appear to be in bad shape other than the one area on the face. Be mindful of how it was constructed, work within its limitations, and it will outlast you.

I have clamped a pair of Vise Grips on the heel to deaden ring. Others have used a bar dropped through the hardy or pritchel hole. I have seen weights hanging off of horns too. As Glenn said, you want to disrupt the vibrations, so the item needs to throw them off in some way. The horn and heel act like a tuning fork, so that is where the best work is done for quieting an anvil, not the waist. I am not a fan of chains on the waist, and used speaker magnets on my Soderfors. My main anvil is a Fisher, so ringing is not an issue.

Definitely looks cast to me, Swedish? Soderfors, Kolswa,etc...

Look into gun blue, or black phosphate finish, then wax or clear coat. I think it would lose some character a gray color once the zinc tarnishes. I see the stickers on your cabinet. Fellow gearhead I presume.

MacLeod, to get more symmetry in the hearts try this. I watched a demo where the guy was knocking out heart shaped unicorn shoes from pony shoes. This method works both sides at the same time. He could do 4 shoes in 15 minutes. As for heads instead of scrolls, those would need to be done a different way. Possibly after step 2 for the rough shape, and the eyes, ears, etc added after step 5. Step 1, fold the shoe in half so it looks like a J not a U Step 2, straighten the J out to an I Step 3, Taper each end down edgewise Step 4, curve the ends to a half heart shape Step 5, unfold and flatten out the heart

The last cast rod I used was made in Sweden if I remember right. It came in a pile of rod that came with a welder I had bought at an auction. Any good welding supply shop should have a rod chart for applications. When I worked at Jelly Belly I believe we used some rods made by Harris. E99 will work, but it will leave a shiny silver spot showing the repair. The better rods will color match. Yes, grind down to the previous weld so when you are done it is 100% welded with no unwelded section inside that can create a weak point. As I mentioned before, it is a process. To weld my lathe foot, which was around a 7" long broken off piece, took several hours.

Chrome is very hard, and paint strippers won't touch it. Get a respirator and slot them outside.

You had plenty of warning about using it for tooling..the results do not surprise me.

Thomas brings up a good point. Maybe give him a "gift certificate" for whatever amount, and let him pick out which anvil he wants. A 125# JHM will run around $750, and they are out of Texas, so shipping should be lower, or pick up if you are near them if they have a retail outlet. Some guys also really like the SCOTT brand anvils.

The ones my Dad laughed at were the nuclear disaster movies showing bolted flanges bursting. All connections on the primary side of a nuke system are welded, no mechanical joints. Dad worked on nuke subs, and taught nuke pipe prepping at Mare Island for the last 10 years he was there.

Welcome back fleur de lis. Bullet to the knee........and no explanation? Such a tease. Paul Tiki, where I work we go through a ton of the FIBC aka Super Sacks. I have been looking at them as a possible earth bag possibility. The ones we have are 35"x35"x52" and rated at 1,000kg with a 5:1 safety rating. My personal favorite design for where I live in NV is the subterranean.

A source of free strip magnets are refrigerators. Just slice the end of the door seals and pull them out

There is one company making brush hog blades for many manufacturers. I found them on the net years ago. For some reason Churchill rings a bell, but that may just be my Tinnitus.... The boron alloy they use takes a very specific heat treat to maximize the alloy.

Depending on what they fit, and condition, some of the brake drums can have some value. Many older drums from the 60's on back are very hard to find today new, so old usable ones are still being sold. The lineshaft equipment is pretty cool.

Hey Charles, you have my deepest condolences. I know what you are going through, I lost my Mom on Christmas of 2003.

It is for holding chisels so you don't hit your hand with the hammer. A coworker has, and uses one.

I work for TH Foods, and we make the Blue Diamond snack cracker as well as our own Crunchmaster crackers. We are going through North of 50,000# of rice a day, and working 6 and 7 weeks.

I would look at smaller items that could be done in a timely manner. A full capacity part would probably take awhile as it nibbles away at it whereas a big machine could hog it out.

That one looks like a homebuilt, not a factory item.

Thomas, that is like when people say they want a metal part to replace one they have......that is made out of aluminum......

The one on top is a bent welding wedge used for aligning, or gapping parts to be welded. I have a few of them.