BIGGUNDOCTOR

That is considered theft of company property and is punishable. Even though they may have been discarded, if you were caught by the railroad police doing so it would not be good.

For around another $200 you can get a new 125# JHM. There are several manufacturers of new anvils today. So look around. But, I would also recommend looking at the improvised anvil thread. You can get far more weight for your money, if they even charge you for it.

Just saw this. Glad everything went smooth. Take it easy. Think up some cool sculptures, and work on feeling better.

A Fisher never rings, they thunk instead. They were even advertised as quiet anvils. I love my 260# Fisher due to how quiet it is. Looks like a wagon tongue vise to me too.

Thanks Thomas. I am more of the patient waiting type, hahaha. But that METRO van does have me drooling more than the 210# Hay Budden he picked up recently. I know where he got the HB, because I had asked if it was for sale earlier in the year. At the time it was not. He is a neighbor of theirs, so he got first shot when they decided to sell. I grabbed the vise for a friend who I am helping get started. I found him a sweet blower when I was working in UT. When a friend of his passed away he was given 3 anvils, one being a big Fisher sawyer.

Cruising through Facebook and saw a during the week yard sale on one of my locals pages. One of the pictures caught my eye. Sent a message as I was still in Fabulous Las Vegas NV. $40 and she would hold it for me. Jam on home and got some other goodies to go with it. II&BC house jack, a couple of large packing removal tools which I need at work, aa new AAA grade walnut Royal stock for a K98 Maurer action, a handful of new bimetal hacksaw blades,new sharpening stone, and some misc. I chatted with her for a bit and explained what some of her other items were. She said how about $50 on the pile, and I said I can do that. The vise is a 5" late model Columbian with a 70 on it which I take as 70#. Also met a NOG ( near old guy) who invited me over to see some of his collection of tools. Pull up to see several anvils in the yard , post vises piled in a corner, Japanese WWII artillery piece and a shorty IH METRO van among other things. He has a ( as Donald J. Trump would say) HUGE, wonderfully HUGE collection of cool stuff in a good sized metal building. He will be one to keep tabs with.

The face does not have to be perfectly smooth or flat to be used. advertising removed I like my JHM.

I wouldn't use a rod. Make a pivot point and mount it to a swivel base.

work on your hammer control to leave a smoother surface for starters. A good angle grinder should remove the scale in no time

I have never seen a Ginkgo leaf with more than one centered notch in the outer edge.

There are a ton of new US made anvils on the market today in sizes from 50# to 450# that are made better than the old names. No faces to delaminate, better alloys, better heat treating, one solid mass not several forge welded together. JDSokol, I paid around $1 a pound for anvils from 1977 to 2016. I noticed a spike in prices after Forged in Fire came out. Then they became the next hot "collectible" and that further fueled the price rise. Many of the FB sites created recently are by those selling the hype to maximize profits. To me they are simple tools, nothing more. I will always suggest an improvised anvil for those starting out on a budget. For the cost of many "vintage" anvils I could outfit an entire smithy.

Are you sure it is the clutch that is seized, or could it be stuck on area that it slides on?

Use them for making a treadle hammer

Brass is a mix of copper and zinc so you may want to check brass manufacturing. And tin melts at a far lower temp than zinc does, so how does it react?

Beautiful workmanship

If it was mounted on the corner of a workbench it would be a handy feature

I plan on driving my 04 Vibe GT for a long time. It has over 172,000 now. The current inventory is; 1960 Chrysler Windsor, (3) 1956 Imperials, (2) Saturns /SL1/SC2, 06 F450 contractor bed, 03 F550 drive on flatbed, 67 M715, 01 3500 Cummins, 06 2500 Cummins, 06 1500, 98 Neon, 72 Olds Ambulance, 01 Volvo V70xc, 85 Caravan, Probe GT, (3) 94 Dodge 2500's, and I have an M37 to go pick up locally. I gave my first car to a friend a couple of years ago. 1974 Gold Duster 318, 4bbl, headers,and a stick. Fun car.

Irondragon, I have a 2004 Pontiac Vibe GT I bought last May with 114,400 miles on it. Today it has over 172,000. When i pulled the head.(burned 4 of the 8 exhaust valves) on a 98 Saturn SW2 wagon I had, we found zero ridge, and crosshatching was still seen in the cylinders. This on a car with 293,000 miles. I just rolled 340,000 on an 06 Dodge 1500 with the Hemi, and it still runs great. I for one am glad they do not build engines like they used to, as I have driven over 600,000 miles since 05.

And that post vise can pivot on the rear leg by loosening the strap clamp.

I worked at a small foundry, and we had an old induction furnace for making the dental alloys. We were pouring 25Kg at a time. The big advantage of induction was speed, incredible speed compared to gas. Quieter, no gas lines, as well as no flame to deal with. They made their own coils out of copper water pipe. We could melt a batch of the nickel based, or non precious gold alternative alloys to 1,450F or so in around 10 minutes if I remember correctly. The chrome cobalt alloy was a little longer and a lot hotter at 3,200F. That poured at a white heat. At my last machine shop job we had a couple of units. The one I liked was a 30Kw Ameritherm. With the test coil in it (4 loops big enough for a soup can to fit inside) I was able to bring the middle 4 inches of a chunk of 1.25" mild steel round bar from room temp to yellow in around 15 seconds.

Here are my two cents on welding cast. I did a few cast iron repairs when I had my shop. I used a couple of different rods over the years but they had one thing in common, they ran around $50 a pound. These rods had an excellent color match, no bright nickel contrast, and laid down much nicer than E99 nickel rod. This was a loooong time ago and I cannot remember the brand, nor the number. But, a good welding supply house should be able to guide you. The problem with cast is that it shrinks at a far slower rate than the weld bead does, thus tearing away at the edges. Cast has graphite in it. Grind down the preps, but finish with a file or rotary burr in a die grinder as the grinding wheel tends to smear the graphite more. The following would be how I would do this job. Start on the top edge and grind down halfway at a 45 degree angle on both pieces. Then clean the surface with a good coarse file. Get a good chunk of flat bar that you can clamp under both pieces to hold them in position. Some rods state to not preheat, but I always did anyway. Heat the whole arm until it is uncomfortable to hold. Lay a bead down (using the guidelines from the manufacturer for amps and polarity) and while it is still red to just under red (short beads around an inch or so long) peen the weld bead as it cools. The way I found worked best was to use my big industrial pneumatic needle scaler and keep it looped over my shoulder as you need to work quick. Stop welding, drop the stinger over my leg (sitting down) flip up the hood and stuff the needle scaler against the hot bead. Just keep hammering it until it resists any further spreading. The peening spreads the weld sideways and keeps it from tearing away at the edges as it cools. Wire brush the weld and check for porosity. If there is, grind out , and repeat. Once you have the top done, remove the clamps and flip over so you can grind down from the backside until you hit the weld. File it up, and do as you did on the topside. Do this while it is hot, do not let the part cool off during this whole process. When you are done, and it is still hot, you can dust the weld down until it is flush with the surface. Keep the grinding down to a narrow area. Going wide will be a lot more noticeable. Now, take the needle scaler and blend the welded section with the rest of the yoke. If done correctly it will camouflage the weld nicely. If it has cooled down, reheat to a good 300F or so, then bury it in a big pile of fluffed up gray wood ashes. I had mine in a cut down 55 gallon drum. The next day it should still be warm when you remove it. No needle scaler? an air chisel with a blunt tip will also do. Just remember you want to spread the weld sideways not lengthwise. And you can go old school with a ballpeen hammer, or a chipping hammer, but they are a lot more work. I don't scrimp on the peening. With the hammer, just be careful to only hit the bead, and don't whack it so hard you end up breaking it....DOH! My needle scaler is an old one around a foot long minus the needles, and packs a punch. When done, check for cracks visually, do a ring test by hanging it and tapping with a hammer, then clamp it up and do a stress test by giving it a good whack or two, or a pull double the weight of the bell. Better to have it come apart in your shop than on someone's head.

Looks like possibly a spindle for a tool post grinder.

Just too stinking hot to work on anything at the moment. This week is supposed to run 110F - 115F, and at those temps any metal item in the sun is too hot to handle. I need to get the METRO and A100 off the trailer and go get a M37 in town, but we have been working weekends too. I work nights, and that is about the only time during the summer you can get any work done. Waiting for the Covid thing to end so I can go to TX to get my donor truck for the 4x4 project. I had wanted to fly down and drive back, but my friend is interested in an 06 Cummins I have, so it will be a drive down and back trip. So, who else has a bad case of Carowner virus?

A ceramics kiln and a volunteer fire department may get the job done good enough Back when I had my shop I picked up a 306# Soderfors at a machine shop auction. The forklift driver said it was the first time he had loaded an anvil into a Cadillac trunk. Dad had brought his 81 Caddy since what I was looking to buy that day would need a trailer, and a second trip.. Can't remember if the anvil was even listed in the advertisement. That was one of the better $200 buys I have made.

Joshua soaks his anvils in Simple Green, removes all of the paint with no fuss.