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I Forge Iron


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About apexmateria

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
  • Interests
    Knife making, forging, metal working, etc

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  1. The reason I mentioned that example was because I just watched a guy do it on video. He used a manual 4 ton jack inside a very simple welded frame and he punched through 2-4mm cold steel plate clean and easy (it warped the surrounding metal a bit but overall it was a clean punch). In the same setup guys are easily crushing 2mm thick rectangular stock (1" diameter) into a flat bar. With 20x the crushing power of their setup (and a much, MUCH beefier frame) I think I can push a billet together. I maybe wrong, and I'm very open to admitting that. I'm ok with learning through failure as long
  2. Even just touching the bars puts little specs of chrome onto my fingertips (because the rust is slowly flaking it off). Kind of a shame because it's so much metal that would be useful for projects, it is what it is though! Thanks guys, appreciate you helping me out. I won't grind or cut them. I'll find a safe use for them one day.
  3. Frosty don't worry I'm not planning to win a Darwin award anytime soon! I'll ask you guys for advice along the way to make sure it's as safe as possible. My cousin is a talented machinist so he can help me too. Thick steel and very large industrial grade bolts will be used. I'll try my best to make sure it's very basic but safe. ThomasPowers I don't know almost anything about physics or thermodynamics but if I hammer a cold 4mm thick piece of mild steel plate 50 times it will be slightly dented up, if I create a punch using a 4 ton jack it will tear straight through the cold metal in seco
  4. Thanks for the help Frosty, dealing with metal vapors sounds slightly terrifying I'd prefer to avoid that https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/40744O/3m-respirator-cartridge-and-filter-selection-poster.pdf Is the 3M 6001i a suitable mask? Should I maybe strip off the chrome before grinding instead? I see there are some methods floating around using acids or electrolysis.
  5. I'm really curious how it would move the steel as well. From the videos I've seen a modified 20 ton log splitter will compress a billet like butter. I'm get you though, even at 90 tons the manual jacks seem like they might not perform well. I wonder how much force I'll have to exert on the jack on each stroke (while its compressing a large billet) because it needs to go up and down FAST, repeatedly, multiple times per second for the cylinder to move at a decent rate. I could definitely see the project ending in failure, but I do think there's maybe potential for success. Spreading the loa
  6. At the moment I only have n95 masks. My respirator is this model but has no filters. Any idea what kind I need? I need it to keep me safe from refractory fiber as well since I'll be building a forge soon.
  7. Can open and close the 3 bleed release valves based on a lever of some sort. I played around with a bottle jack in my garage and it seems possible. If I get strong springs to pull down the cylinder it should only take a second to drop 1 centimeter and then I can rotate the billet, quickly shut the valve in 1 pull and start pressing again. Manual jacking is slow but it's especially bad to have to jack up the full length of the cyclinder. Jacking 2-4 CM of total distance doesn't take long from my test on an old 3 ton bottle jack. If I go really fast I can do 1CM of distance in 1 second.
  8. Thanks for the warnings, good to know! At the moment I need to cut a slot down one of the pipes with an angle grinder. Can you guys advise me how to proceed? Should I just sand off the chrome paint / plating where I want to cut? Is paint stripper / vinegar a better option? Frazer - OD = 1".
  9. bubba682 - I appreciate the input, especially the constructive criticism. it can save me lots of wasted time and money. I'm trying to think of a workaround to get past the speed issue.. it's a tough drawback! The force is controlled by manual jacking. Johnytait - I need a very powerful press for cheap, from what I've seen nobody has made one yet, it might not be possible. All the good presses are out of my budget so I have no choice but to try to innovate / improvise (which might end up being a waste of time - I'm ok with that). I might not build it, but it's worth doing a bit of brainsto
  10. I tested the handle material. It's extremely hard and dense wood - it holds up well to chiseling (clean small chips come off), it takes forever to file down and sand (even with a rasp), and if I take a very deep gouge out of the wood it will finally start to splinter, if I smash the wood against something it barely dents. I should have spent some time to ID the type of wood first, hopefully it turns out ok! I'm a bit worried about it snapping at the thin point where the hammer head connects.
  11. I spent a few hours watching DIY hydraulic press videos and reading. It seems a lot of people on a tight budget are modifying log splitters into presses. 4-6 ton splitter would cost around $300 including the price of modification, it's quite weak though. The 20 ton splitters are 1k or more (used) and they require an electric motor to replace the gas one etc. I think building an electrically powered 20+ ton press from the ground up will break my budget by a large margin. I made a thread here about my cheap press build idea, please check it out and critique: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic
  12. I need a cheap but powerful hydraulic press in the $300-500 range to help with forge welding / making damascus on a budget. $200-300 log splitters are too weak, $1500+ log splitters are powerful but expensive, a $5000-10,000 industrial press is out of the question for me. I think an automatic press would be too expensive (just the motor alone will probably go over my budget), plus it adds lots of complexity to the project. So instead, I'm thinking about keeping it cheap and simple by using manual jacks. I can get 3x - 30-ton bottle jacks from princess auto for around $350 total. The rest
  13. Decided to make the 8lbs head into a mini 2h sledge with a stained custom handle, and then put a very basic handle on the 2.5lbs head. They're both the same wood for the handle but I'm not sure what it is. It's very dense and seems resinous. The wood was original used as shutters on a house.
  14. What kind of metal are these? Cheap steel? They're around 3-4mm thick and I have 30 in my shed, they're from my grandfather (he passed away). I want to grind some or maybe even heat them to use for projects. I assume it's safe since they're rusting it means no zinc plating right? Should I strip the coating off first as a precaution?
  15. Mikey98118 - I think you're probably right! pnut - Yeah I tend to do that. I don't like to follow the traditional path of learning. I like to laser focus on what sparks my interest regardless of difficulty. ThomasPowers - What kind of pressing force is acceptable? Are there any DIY tutorials you can recommend for making a decent press for $300-500? Unfortunately I'm living in the hellscape known as suburbia and can't setup any water powered machines. I should be moving out into a rural off-grid area in the next few years but right now it's not an option.
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