BIGGUNDOCTOR

MSC is a huge industrial supplier, I bought a lot from them when I had my machine shop. . They have a website that you can search through, but that saw may no longer be offered, as they do what Kenmore does, and labels items made by others with their name,

Thomas Powers and I don't get much of the humidity, except for now when the monsoons are swinging through, but we do get the heat. Yesterday we had some fabulous lightning, localized flooding, downed power lines, and some of our official valley birds (the Trampoline) took flight in rather spectacular fashion Out my way near Fabulous Las Vegas NV, June, July, August are the months when it will be 100F every day, with low temps from the high 70's to low 90's, which don't happen until 3am. Then by 9am it is 100F again. We have already had highs of 117F with more on the way. I have been researching buildings for a shop space, so when the house in Fairfield CA sells I can build a shop, and get busy on my varied projects.

Try water, or brine instead. 4140 is a tough alloy, not one that gets super hard.

I'd say they are usually cast iron, not steel.

My first car was a used 74 Plymouth Gold Duster, it was my oldest brother's first car too, and he bought it new. I gave it to a friend around 3 years ago. 318 with an 1982 360 intake and Thermoquad, Hooker headers, and 3 speed manual on the floor. Manual steering, manual disc brakes, mechanical secondaries, manual windows, even had the windshield washer pump that you pumped with your foot. The fold down rear seat and hatch to the trunk made hauling long items easy. That was around the time I contracted a terminal case of carowner virus. Today I have 20 plus vehicles.....and looking at a few more fun ones. As to left and right hand threads on wheels. Driver's side would have right hand, passenger side left hand. The passenger side studs will be marked with an L on the end. Some newer medium duty trucks are like that. Hoping to get my 48' semi trailer hauled up from San Diego to Fairfield and load all of the machine tools next week, and the last of what is at the house.

The Chrysler record players from the late 50's to early 60's were originally the Hi-Way Hi-Fi and played a special speed record. Later they offered the RCA that played standard 45's. They are quite valuable today. They were not great to use while cruising, more for park and play. I am looking for one of the original Auto-Pilot cruise controls for my 60 Windsor coupe. Two modes of operation. One maintained the speed, the other was you controlled the throttle, and when you reached the speed it was set at it would push back against your foot with 3.5# of force.

One of my 56 Imperials has a Muntz 4 track player. First one I had ever seen.

Many of the gun blues have a phosphoric acid base liquid. Same as naval Jelly. Warming the part helps the blue bite into the surface when using a cold blue solution. We used Oxpho Blue at the shop I worked at. I used some beeswax at work to get some parts loosened up and with heat from the torch it left a hard black coating. But a gun blue is a simple dip , or wipe on process. Just keep it wet with the solution until it turns black.

What is the next size up weight wise for Kanca? Personally I would suggest going a little bigger than 110# for a general use anvil. Shape plays a part as well as weight. I have a 125# JHM Journeyman I picked up used that has worked out nice, but 150# is a great all around size. Not saying you need it, as I do not know what type of work you want to do. My main anvil is a 260# Fisher because that is what my dad and I found when starting around 1977, and it was $250 at the time. Other than some hammers we made, I could have gotten by with a smaller anvil over the years.

The land will need to be dished to conform with the curvature of the globe. Look at panel adhesive for auto body work. If it can hold a car together it will work for a globe.

If you run across any tools marked HAZET, set them aside. The ones used in the old VW spare tire tool kits are worth a bit to those needing them.

Flashlight batteries and 0000 - 00000 steel wool is a good fire starter. Hold the batteries together end to end in one hand while pinching some steel wool on the bottom battery, then take the other end of the steel wool and touch it to the end of the top battery creating a short circuit. With a 9v battery you just push it into the steel wool.

Link a bunch together and make a really big centipede you can position.

Johan, that is called honeycomb. You can also get aluminum sheets with an aluminum honeycomb core in it. Very strong and lightweight. All I have ever found is blocks of it, never sheets. The separators for the pallets at work are inflatable bags. Slip in between the pallets and air up to 3psi. The guys just slice them to release the air instead of deflating them. I want to get a few to play around with making sand/ soft ground air jacks for the car.

Das, propane does not leave any residue like other liquids. Remove the valve, and if there is no liquid left to gas off, go ahead and cut. But, I would wash with bleach first to get rid of the stink, as it will be easier when the tank is still together. Got some goodies at the Ritchie Bros. auction, but I am going to wait until this high heat wave passes. 114F yesterday and suppose to hit 119 this week.

Finally got around to unloading some of the dumpster finds from the other week. Turns out the 4'x10' stainless sheet I drug out is 304 and 14Ga. Found a tag stapled to the pallet it was on.

Frosty, the weather prognosticators here say 75F for the low and 111F for the high today and 114F to 119F with lows as high as 86F all next week. At least the humidity is only 7% to 20%

Some Ford 9" rear carriers have a large N cast into the side denoting Nodular iron was used. These are the ones that drag racers prefer. I had read somewhere while researching cast iron welding repairs that White Cast Iron was non-weldable.

Instead of an angle grinder I would use a circular saw or a radial arm saw with a cutoff disc in it. More HP and no jig needed. With the radial arm saw I would pull the saw forward, then push the cutoff disc into the anvil, not pull it through. This way there is less chance of it grabbing and pulling itself in.

I can't open that file.

I am one step closer to getting my machine shop and welding gear down here. I bought a 48' Great Dane dry van with a lift gate on Truck Planet. Now to get it moved from San Diego. A 48' should hold two Monarch lathes, a vertical mill, horizontal mill, shaper, my big welders, surface grinder, and a lot more. Thinking I might also be able to run power to it once it is at my place and use the equipment until a shop gets built.

Bud D. this is just the tip of the knowledge base here. The variety of questions that could be answered by the members rivals Google

WilkyBud, where in MI. My family has some property in Montmorency County that my grandfather bought during WWI.

Das a gator jaw has that web at the rear, and that could be welded in to act as a brace. http://aminus3.s3.amazonaws.com/image/g0036/u00035074/i01728977/00d0dae91974dfdb0008b8241249f0c3_large.jpg DHarris, the flatter handle eye is at an ERGONOMIC angle for a more comfortable hold.

If I made one I would probably leave the rear jaw flat, and put a slight radius on the moving jaw so it would always push the part flat against the rear jaw. I use a piece of round stock in the milling machine vise to do the same thing. It narrows the contact point small enough that if the sides are not parallel It still pushes the rear side flat against the stationary jaw. Nice job BTW