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I Forge Iron


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  1. The 1" bolt is just used as a shaft, the threaded portion gets cut off. I assume Clay picked that grade of 1" bolt to allow for more shear force on the shaft, which is important if you want to put a lot of time in forging with the hammer. Also using a bolt makes it easier to weld it perfectly perpendicular to the flywheel by threading a nut and washers on before hand. For the anvil, probably the most readily available to anyone material would be 1/2" plate. Cut to size and stack it up to weld.
  2. Surprisingly no, the repair manual doesn't say what type of oil is best. The only mention of oil is more of a sales pitch "...reduced wear and noise due to cavitation. Thus allowing heavier viscosity fluids to be used". You bring up some interesting points I'll have to read up on. I'll give a local shop a call tomorrow and see if they can recommend me a type to use.
  3. I bought a big hydraulic powerpack/press a while back and the fluid is getting kinda nasty and old in it. What do you guys use in your hydraulic presses? Does the weight of the fluid make any difference? My power pack was made sometime in the 70s and the manufacturer has long been out of business. I do know it's a single stage pump that will be producing about 30gpm from an old pump repair manual though.
  4. You can use that to cut RR track, If you have a long piece just mill the slides travel at a time and re-clamp. As far as what to use, just use an older mill bit you already have, or a face mill, or a fly cutter, or anything that fits in your collets. Buy the cutter that you get the best deal on, 2"-3" seem like a useful general purpose size to look for though. Keep an eye out for Facebook/craigslist/auction bulk lots of endmills for some really good deals. You'll probably find 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" are really useful sizes in just about anything. That mill is a game changer for sure, wait untill you put a cheap digital readout on it though!
  5. I didn't read anything above me yet, I assume bomb has been mentioned by everyone, that's worst case scenario based on your honest assessment of your welding abilities and fab equipment. It's a real life don't cheat yourself scenario. That said, you're going to waste a lot of time and money hodge podgeing random log splitters together. You've probably made your mind up if you're going to do it already, but I'd advise you to start off with baby steps. Just buy a harbor freight air/hydraulic jack and use that in a frame, they can be very capable in that role. Or just use one log splitter, don't think a rube goldberg contraption of a bunch of log splitters is going to be any better than just one when you are forcing yourself to be a cheap skate on parts. That said, deals are out there for hydraulic presses if you go the air/hydraulic cheap route and wait until a real press comes along. I bought a 60 ton extremely fast industrial press for $400 as example just searching Facebook marketplace. I've seen 3 small presses, and multiple power packs in the last 6 months at auction, so keep an eye out for industrial auctions and scrap yards you can buy from.
  6. Oh wow, ya 3d printing has come a long way in the last handful of years. There's actually a few really big databases of free print files too. Odds are if you think you want to design something someone already has and posted it online. Link removed per TOS is a pretty good one. For a slicer I use cura, its free and is pretty easy to use. As far a printing goes, it's as simple as downloading your xxxx file, opening it in cura, clicking slice, then moving that file to your printer with a thumb drive.
  7. Frosty Have you looked at the ender 3? I have a cr-10 which is essentially the same but a little bigger and am pretty impressed with it, found it as an Amazon warehouse deal at a pretty nice price. I've seen ender 3s occasionally on sale for around $150 and they can print lost wax. Actually you can print normal PLA plastic and melt it out of your molds prior to pour. On YouTube there a channel, I think it's called myfordboy, he has a few really good aluminum casting videos using the 3d printed lost PLA method.
  8. That's just a homemade widget holder. Like someone above said, probably an indicator holder to tram a mil. Don't get your hopes up it might be worth a few dollars to someone, however if you need to tram in a mill you can make your on indicator holder really fast. So what you got there is a fancy piece of scrap if you don't have a mill honestly.
  9. It's going to be really interesting to see what my speeds and feeds can be on steel with this little guy. I'll probably never make big widget things for the sole purpose of resale, this is mainly a way to teach myself CNC with my limited space at the moment. I could see myself doing small batches of parts though, like that scope wheel, as a production project. A big motivator to paying way to much money for this mill was to boost my resume, this kind of stuff lines up pretty well with the industry I'm trying to get my foot in the door at. Steam punk guns would be pretty cool! Along those similar lines I've had a vision to build a beat up looking post apocoliptic AR or AK with some random repurposed things. Like making a beat to hell rough forging of an AK receiver and then milling it out keeping the outside raw look to it. Or just pulling random parts from my scrap yard that kind of have the same outside dimensions and machining the insides to spec. Even though I have a bunch of cheapo Anderson lowers I just can't bring myself to messing one up in trying to junkify the outside of it lol. I've been looking at Saunders machine fixture plates as of late. Having extremely accurate dowel pin locators for quick vice and fixture swaps and having an overhang from the milling machines bed is defiantly the way to go. I think I'm going to draw one up and take it to a local machine shop to see if they can compete in price. With a piece of hardened 4140, I almost think the only way to accurately make a parallel fixture plate would be to hardened the material, send it to the surface grinder, then drill/tap/ream holes in the hardened ground material? I'm not extremely knowlegble about the processes industrial heat treatment facilities use, but I'm fairly certain that if the machining process above was done in reverse to bring down tool costs the heat treat process would most likely cause very minute changes to hole dimensions and flatness.
  10. I just bought a tiny CNC mill DM2800 at auction that's pretty similar to the Tormach 440 in build quality and capacity (8x6x7 tool path). I'll probably have some retrofit work to do to this 1990's mill, I'm most likely going to put an Acorn control system in it. Anyways in the mean time to kill some time, what would you guys make with a tiny CNC mill? My immediate thoughts are to work my CNC fixturing skills up enough to where I can cut bevels into folding knifes and mess around with those for a while. I know it's kind of unrelated to this forum, but I think I would get a lot of use building robotics projects too. In addition to 3D printing, I think this little CNC mill can really be a game changer to make conceptual designs reality. I don't have any good pictures of my mill as of yet but here's the model I'll be working with: DM2800 axis capabilities
  11. If that hammer was close to me I'd be comfortable paying 50 cents a pound for it sight unseen (local scrap yard sells me steel for 25 cents a lb). It's a potentially long project, but if you're mechanically inclined and have a decently equipped shop (machine shop tools) I think it's a totally restorable hammer. All it is is an assembly of big castings that probably only need cosmetic work, and an air compressor pump. Simplified of course but you really only need to be focused on repairing the small parts one at a time (for a long time lol).
  12. Hey, thanks buzzkill, glad someone here read my question for what it was and didn't add to it with lots of what if scenarios. Clear and concise, just like my question Informative read though, thank you.
  13. Simple question was simple, reading is key. This topic became more frustrating than herding cats....... Smh Thank you again JHCC
  14. Thanks! That's good news, Ill just keep the current pump on the unit then as it's rated at 5.47 at 1800 rpm. That would be 5.24 gpm using your equation.
  15. Thank you but not asking about the Hydraulic system, I'm just asking if a 1700 rmp motor is adequate for a generic forging press, I really don't care what the end result tonnage is, just one that's worth the time it takes me to build frame for it. Just as simple as that, am I wasting time with a 1700 rpm motor? That's what I'm asking. Most commercial ones I've seen are a higher rpm motor. Again I am well aware of the hydrolic system components that go into the equation.
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