BIGGUNDOCTOR

Well, since July a few tons if steel, iron, and rubber have made their way to my place. The white 56 Imperial was supposed to be a parts car, but it is in pretty decent shape, so may end up getting built instead as the 4x4 project I had in mind for the black 56 imperial. The METRO is a 1960, and was a random find. Dented, but solid body. 1962 Dodge D100 chassis with polyhead 318 1962 Dodge A100 pickup body parts

Joshua with the Fisher museum may have some insight. He goes by NJanvilman here.

Billy, I use a wrench like that at work constantly. I would like to get a couple more in different sizes. I like them better than pipe wrenches on unions, and other parts because they don't leave teeth marks. The protractor head is part of a combination square set. The other two pieces would be a 90 / 45 degree head, and a vee head for centerlining round stock. Who is the maker?

As JHCC said, the Fisher is a far better quality anvil than a Vulcan ever hoped to be, Vulcans are serviceable , but there are better anvils out there. My Fisher is 260#, and it is my main anvil. It is a wonderful anvil to work on.

Well I have added a few more since the last post. I made the run to WY and got the 56 Imperial 4dr that was supposed to be a parts car, but it isn't in that bad of shape for what I do, soooooo.. The guy finally got the title for the first 56 Imperial after a year and 3 months, so I went and picked that up along with a 62 Dodge D100 rolling chassis with a polyhead 318 , and manual trans that was part of another deal I did the same week. I was scrolling through the OfferUp posts and saw a wedge truck - a drive on race car hauler-that had been posted over a year ago. I looked right past the truck and sent a message on what was behind it. Ended up buying a 1960 International Harvester METRO delivery van. He tossed in the body for a shorty Dodge A100 pickup (van based), and the 62 Dodge chassis. If I can figure out how to resize some pics on the phone I'll post some up of the herd.

Instead of a flap disc a better option probably would have been to planish the surface to knock the raised metal back down to where it came from. I have done that a lot with dinged up firearm screws.

Check out the JABOD There are blueprints here for the 55 forge too.

Before I cut any of those press brake dies I would shop them around. The dies could pay for some very nice tooling. I outfitted my machine and fab shop from auctions, and guys would fight over racks full of dies.

Hey Trace, being in/near Cheyenne you should be able to scrounge up enough items to get started. It is big enough, and with the AFB next door there should be plenty of materials floating around. Pallets and shipping crates provide stands, and much more. Companies that deal in motorcycles and personal watercraft get some nice ones, but any place that has items trucked in will have pallets and crates. Just ask before taking. Where I work now there is a dumpster full of really heavy duty skids with 4x4s and 2x6s. A quick search around my area on Facebook marketplace pulled up a few posts offering free wood. I also see free scrap metal often. It is $40 a ton here so for many it costs more to haul than what they get for it. metal can be found at auto repair shops, auto body shops, tractor and heavy equipment shops, rental yards, wrecking yards, and more. I was up in Burlington WY the beginning of July to get a 1956 Imperial, and there are some wide open areas in WY. The yard where I bought the car was in one of these with neighbors far down the road. If this is your situation, try posting an ad on FB Marketplace, or Craigslist for what you need. They may even be able to deliver it for you. Without more information about you, and your situation, I can't help much more. I don't know if I'm dealing with a 14 year old (like some we have had on here that went on to do great work) living in a city, out in DaBoonies, , or someone older with different capabilities.

I picked up a used 125# JHM Journeyman anvil from a retired farrier, it is a nice anvil, and still looks like new. It also doesn't have the horn heavy shape many farrier anvils have. The turning cams in the heel come in handy too for bending items. The company Anvil Brand sells them as well as other makes. I believe they run around $700ish last time I looked.

Forge design depends on what you are making. Gas forges work great for items that are relatively flat and can fit through the door. Solid fuel forges lend themselves to larger items due to no box around the flame. Induction heaters also have their place, especially when speed, fumes, and flame are an issue. For solid fuel I would go side blast as opposed to bottom, especially for coal since clinkers are less of an issue.

Donovan, you mean like a missed hit on a hardened anvil face? Yes, there is concern for chipping just like with an anvil. You can draw some hardness out of the hammer face so it is softer than the anvil too, if you are prone to missing the piece you are working on.

Green is verdigris that forms on copper based alloys. It is also very toxic. I have never seen green galvanized items. They just darken up with some use.

Finding scrap depends on what you are making. What type of items are you making? Art, furniture, tools, knives, armor, home items, hardware, etc????

$4k is dreaming. Tell her to take it to the antiques dealer and see what he offers to buy it for. You can get a new JHM for far less. I picked up a used 125# JHM and it is a great anvil. ANVIL BRAND sells them.

A Porta-Band would make short work of those spikes. Too hot and working 7 days a week lately, so no fun time.

I have a pile of those myself. I was thinking of reaming and rifling one for a blackpowder barrel. They take a pounding, so any tool that needs toughness would be a good choice to make from them.

My friend keeps all of his machinist stones in a container of lamp oil. Yes, the color indicates an India stone. I have a few myself.

Great job on the guitarist!

use a lag screw for the form. They have a wide pitch to the thread. Start at the head end and wind towards the point so it is more centered and the lag can be easily unscrewed.

I plan on giving my stuff away while I am still alive. That way I will know it will be done to my liking. But I will also have the written instructions as a backup. Yes Thomas, underground is smart in the desert. My basement is 20 degrees cooler at the bottom of the stairwell than at the top.

Welcome from the hot (122) dry (8% humidity) desert outside of Fabulous Las Vegas NV.

And some contend that no new anvil is suitable because they are too soft, and dent from hammer blows. He contends it needs to be a minimum of 59RC 60+ is best. Can't say that I agree with that. Hit hot steel, not the anvil.

I pay up to $10 per inch of jaw width. My last one was a couple of years ago for $40, a really nice complete Columbian out of a wood shop. You can make a postvise out a pair of scrap forklift forks. Cut at the elbows and get fabbing.

It hit 122F at my place yesterday, and today is supposed to be another scorcher......already 108F at 10am. It is windy at 29mph and 8% humidity, so going outside feels like a hairdryer to the body. Absolutely no relief from the wind. Would be a good day to do sundried tomatoes as it only takes a day with this kind of weather.