Marc1

8 threads in this DIY manifold and using teflon tape? A leak waiting to happen, not to mention good luck lining up all the "T" and giving each thread the right tension. Make a manifold from a pipe, tap for each of the 3 burners and don't forget to make another manifold for 2 or more gas bottles. And don't use teflon, shop for a proper thread sealant from Loctite or similar, one that withstands temperature.

It's a cast iron prism with chamfered edges and an oval depression in the center.

I have a method I used for years. I never pay with coins, always use bill to pay and keep the change. At the end of the day it goes in a 3 Litre tin. Once a year I go to the bank with the tin full to the brim. Pour it in the coin counting machine. I have gone over $1000 every year, last year it was 1,350 If you have a lot of very small value coins you may need a larger tin say a gallon or so. We have 10c coins but they hardly circulate, it is mostly 20c and up and we have $2 coins. Very rewarding. Bought myself a large commercial wood chipper last year, ex rental. It's a beast and gobbles up anything you throw in it. All with just one year change.

You have two issues, one is the quality of the abrasive particle as mentioned by others. Higher quality will keep it's edge longer. Another is the size. Just like a cold saw blade needs to be changed according to the material you are cutting to keep a minimum of 3 teeth on the cut and a maximum of 6, if you are grinding say a one inch square surface at the time, there is a ratio between the surface and the grit. It seems that your 60 grit is the limit you can use and that a coarser grit means too much pressure on each particle (since there is less of them) and therefore the particle gets dull too quickly.

Considering 8" is on the small side, I would also ... besides going up past the roof top ... get rid of the 90 degree bend and make a straight diagonal section from the forge to the opening in the window and then a 45 bend vertical up. It may not be 45, but you will have to adjust it to the real angle.

There is more to tank failure then draining the water. And you get water in your tank regardless of ambient humidity. Best gadget to keep your tank dry is an auto drain. Opens the drain valve each time the compressor stops or starts. Cheap as chips, a bit fiddly to install if mechanical. Electronics are a bit dearer and easier to install. You get almost no water under the tank. No guarantee against explosions.

If you need to ask, you will be much better off going to a gym and get an instructor. 10 years of desk work and then scramble together some mad exercises is a recipe for all sort of injuries.

DId you weigh her on a scale? Shouldn't be more than 375 lb if my calculestimator works. Very nice size, any way you lift her

When perhaps the oil reserve is a tad low, unless more is discovered, we have coal for another 1000 years at the current rate of electricity use, may be more. The alternatives as it stands today are geothermal hydro and nuclear. The rest are toys for the caffe latte society to talk about. There will always be coal for a forge providing there is still someone digging it out of the ground.

Roof construction in Oz makes me cringe. The best you can hope is a bit of sarking under those sheets. Insulation is always an afterthought. You should see fancy city houses with BLACK tiles.

Step ladders seem easy but have their quirkiness. Furthermore they are subject to rules and regulations. First question is fixed or foldable? (Fissa o pieghevole?) Second question, is this going to building code or not? (D'accordo con il codice di costruzione o no?) THird ... do you know how to weld and what sort of welder do you have? (Sai saldare? Che tipo di saldatrice hai? Forth ... no handrail? (Senza corrimano?) If you can answer this we can suggest a better construction method. (Facci sapere così vediamo che cosa conviene fare) I suggest metal stringers and wooden steps. Hopefully no handrail. (Mi sembra meglio di fare i due montanti di metallo e scalini di legno)

Aaaah ... finally ... the voice of reason ... thank you Steve. I rest my case (civil case)

I would like to answer ... if only I could understand the basic plot.

I like the scrap pile better ...

Someone buying anvils in UK will pay aprox 1.5£ per pound. Your anvil is 170 lb so a wholesale price of 255£ is a good guess. Retail you should be able to get 340 up to 400£ depending on interest in that particular shape. I am reluctant to suggest cleaning up since buyers usually prefer to think they can add value by doing this themselves. This is of course +- 20%. others more local will probably be able to guesstimate better. I am too far away to drive there.

They seem to work ... I would make the star more skinny ... sort of pushing the low corners further in. But that's just me.

The best part is when he says it will take a minute or so to "level it" ha ha ... at least he sounds sincere and asks for "pointers and tips from any old blacksmith out there"

Pretty odd place that one ... well .. its LA after all I suggested the name due to the solidity of the forge in question that seems to be inspired by a bomb shelter. PS .. the Twist? Oh my!

Posted on behalf of a Grumpy Old Guy ... SKILLS EXPECTED FOR THE EMPLOYMENT OF A JOURNEYMAN Blacksmithing Standards developed by the Appalachian Blacksmiths Association, an ABANA Affiliate, and registered with the Bureau of Apprenticeship and Training, United States Department of Labor. 1. Drawing Out: Draw a bar to a point or dress an edge or point a tool. 2. Upsetting: Upset to at least 1-1/2 times the diameter or width of a bar on the end and in the middle. 3. Bending: Make a ring out of bar stock or flat stock; forge a square corner right angle bend in square stock. 4. Drifting: Make a drift and use it to smooth, shape or enlarge a hole. 6. Mortise and Tenon: Make an assembly from at least two separate pieces using this technique. 7. Collaring: Make an assembly from at least two separate pieces using this technique. 8. Scroll Work: Make two different types of scrolls. 9. Splitting: Split a bar with a hot cut in the middle or at the end of the bar. 10. Fullering, Grooving, Veining, Set Hammering: Show examples of each or if used as an intermediate technique, describe how and why the techniques are used. 11. Riveting: Make two assemblies from at least two separate pieces for eachassembly using hot riveting and cold riveting (pop riveting is not acceptable). 12. Forge Welding: Show at least three different techniques. 13. Arc Welding, Brazing, Soldering, Oxyacetylene Torch Welding: Show an example of each. 14. Hot Rasping, Filing: Hot rasp the torch cut end of a bar to reasonable straightness and evenness; show a workpiece which has been filed to a smooth, flat surface; describe the types, care and use of files. 15. Sinking, Raising, Metal Spinning: Make or show a hemispherical or hollow object made from flat sheetusing any one technique. 16. Grinding: Know how to use a body grinder (portable grinder), pedestal grinder, belt grinder, sharpening stones and abrasive papers; know the types of abrasives and how they are graded and classified; show an edge tool that you have sharpened. 17. Drilling, Tapping, Die Work and Threads: Drill and tap a hole, thread the end of a bar with a die; know the common thread classifications; know the common drill size classifications and the care and use of twist drills. 18. Heat Treating, Hardening, Tempering, Annealing, Case Hardening: Know how to properly anneal, harden and temper carbon tool steel; know how to case harden mild steel, know the colors for tempering; make or show a tool you have made that has been heat treated that will cut or forge mild steel without breaking or deformation on the working end. 19. Heading: Head two bolts, one square headed and one hex headed; head a nail; head a rivet. 20. Cutting and Shearing: Know how to use the hot cut, cold cut, hacksaw, tinsnips, bench or floor shear; know how to use the oxyacetylene torch for cutting and demonstrate each technique. 21. Swaging: Swage a tenon or make the end of a square bar round using a swage. 22. Twisting: Show two different twists in a square bar. 23. Shop Safety: Know first aid techniques for cuts, burns, abrasion and other shop related injuries; describe methods of hearing, sight and body protection and why they are necessary; know power tool and machinery safety including welding equipment safety. 24. Basic Metallurgy: Know the properties and use of wrought iron, mild steel, carbon and tool steels and their classifications, cast-iron, brass, copper, aluminum; know sheet and plate gauging for ferrous and non-ferrous metals. 25. Fire and Fuel: Know the constituents of good shop coal; know the different types of coal fires and fire maintenance. 26. Jigs and Dies: Make both a jig and a die for doing repetitive production work and show examples of work produced with them. [back] Usually, the way to tell your own level goes something like this: You are a beginner when you make something that turns out OK more by pot luck then skill and everyone feels they must tell you it is a wow job to keep you encouraged. You are more experienced when you know what you are doing, you are able to finish what you started and you notice some small defects but know that overall they will go unnoticed. You are very experienced when you are fast and precise, and have no hesitation in ripping out whatever defect you spot and replace it all in a days work. You are an artist when you make a piece in one go with little effort. All parts fall together nicely and the small differences are interpreted by others as intentional and are the object of conversations ... oooh .... aaaah

Mm ... consider renaming to "Das Bunker" forge.

I was looking for a simple forge build that did not involve brake drums and stumbled on a long rant from an ex member on some random forum, badmouthing everyone and their dog. I was bemused and thought if they got rid of him, then it must be a good place

I wish it was that simple Glenn. The reality is that we are all paying for this extravagant political fraud. Sure we need new sources of energy but not to reduce CO2 from 0.04% to 0.038% when only a few hundred millions years ago it was hundred times that. We would like to see one that can stand on it's own feet and that works day and night wind and no wind so that it can be an alternative and not a fanciful addition only to fall back to coal when the sun don't shine or the wind stops blowing. As it is, sun or wind will never be a genuine alternative simply due to the vagaries of the source of power. Geothermal? Yes, Hydro? Sure Something new? i am waiting with baited breath. But it's Christmas after all and the Christmas tree is green too. Hooroo Marc

Do you care to elaborate over the 120 odd toys?

I agree with not enough oil. Disagree with distance to car ... should have been way closer!!!

Of course Glenn. However Solar power generation just like wind power and the rest of the expensive inefficient and unreliable sources that require way more energy to be manufactured than they will ever produce not to mention pollution from the additional mining and manufacturing ... exists purely based on a false hypothesis that has a political agenda of redistribution of power and resources. Therefore "good news" articles of yet another red herring aimed at extracting more taxpayers money for an obscure elite is just that. Political propaganda. Adding to the post an invitation to "join us" mocks the reader that is aware of the duplicitous strategies used.