lanternnate

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About lanternnate

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday March 21

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vermont
  • Interests
    bladesmithing
  1. Love the ram's head, very cool.
  2. Depending on how severe the bend is you might be able to correct with the three point method. With your vise you put a dowel or rod in the middle of the outside of the bend and two on either side of the inside of the bend, then clamp in the vise so the rods are pushing things back straight. I've done this with hardened and tempered 5160 without needing to reheat and soften the steel. I let it sit in the vise for an it for the new deflection to "take" but I don't know if that part is needed or not. Caution would be advisable and not pushing it too far so you don't break anything.
  3. I did "attempt" at least to degrease both times, though perhaps not well enough. On the vinegar round I added some dish soap to the vinegar because I read that is supposed to be one of the tricks. I'm still missing something. I may need to cave and get some of the actual harsher etching acid. I was trying to figure out how to do it the the gentler stuff.
  4. I'm pretty sure everyone wants you to steal every idea you'd like to so that we get to keep seeing the pictures. It's a little Christmas morning every time I see a new Theo post waiting to see what fun will be found inside.
  5. Aaaandddd it's going to need to go again. Made a right good mess sanding it with 2000 grit. Good thing I started with a somewhat thick blade. Maybe I can figure this out before it is a fillet knife...
  6. Well I went ahead and sanded back down to 320 and worked my way back up to 600 then did a 24 hour vinegar bath. Better definition this time (maybe a bit too much in some spots as it brought out the the "crystal" look a bit in spots). Came out more even as well it appears. Up next is to try the 2000 grit cleanup and see if I can manage to not cause a need for a third etch
  7. New winner idea
  8. Good point... shotgun shell and steel shot it is then or I suppose you could also invert and use steel casings in the blade and suspend the lead bullets in the handle too hmmm...
  9. If you are going to do that how about some 45 colt shells in the handle with the bullets in the blade as part of a canister Damascus? Just need to find someone who reloads that would spare a few round parts and pieces
  10. I had a go at doing an edge quench so I could try to etch for a temper line. I tried doing a coffee etch, and I'm not satisfied with how it turned out. I used brewed coffee and I've read others use instant coffee. I made an assumption that instant was just considered cheaper to waste on etching, but maybe there is a reason instant is used over brewed (my wife would never drink instant so there was none to be had in my kitchen raid, shhh don't tell). I think I'm going to try again with vinegar to see how that goes, but before I do there is another oddness to address. The entire blade was submerged, but the entire piece didn't etch. I don't really mind that the handle didn't etch, but near the ricasso and up at the tip are an issue. I spotted the tip first while checking and thought maybe I overheated it during grinding. Because of the handle and by the ricasso I'm thinking it might instead be due to differences in amount of hand sanding a particular area might have seen. Anyone experience this before? Any tips to be sure your well prepared for a good etch? This was about 12 hours in the coffee taking it out and rubbing down with steel wool a few times throughout and just a steel wool rub down at the end. I can see I got at least a little bit of a temper line which makes me want to try to get etch right rather than just grind and sand back to satin. Edit: Forgot to specify the steel is 1080. My first one with "real steel"
  11. I like the handle shape. I'm assuming you did stock removal being A2. What did you use to cut out your pattern? The handle sweep is nicely done.
  12. Tis true, but I actually think the time limit is a good rule. For one it promotes a little bit of safety because I could see someone pushing themselves too hard and long, and we all know tired is when the accidents happen. It also seems like it would serve to keep a bit of a level playing field where each contestant knows exactly what they have for time to work with.
  13. Well done sir. That was definitely one of the more challenging initial rounds I've seen. Not only did you have to make two knives, the style knife was very specific and locked in. Most episodes there are general parameters, but people are able to make a knife in whatever style they are most comfortable with. Looked to me like your neotribal approach was a pretty big advantage because you got a darn near finished product right from the hammer and anvil. Rashelle's push knives also looked very nice. Very unfortunate about the tip. I know Walter Sorrells said after he did his episode that the lighting makes it incredibly difficult to judge temperature, so it is very easy to end up with overheating. Given better circumstances to heat treat in those could have been winning blades as well as they otherwise seemed to do really well on the tests and had quality appearance.
  14. I don't know for sure, but on one episode a guy broke his piece the second to last day. At the beginning of the last day he said he had to do in 10 hours what he originally had 5 days to do, so it's sounds like there is a time cut off.
  15. Had my first go at making a kydex sheath tonight. I learned I need to leave myself a little more extra to play with as the kydex shrunk a bit lengthwise when heated. I originally planned for the fold to be at the tip, and I had to pivot to folding along the side. Came out with a serviceable sheath though. I may need to take some more off or slightly heat and relax the opening because it is a hard click in and out right now. Trying to walk that fine line between tight enough to hold in well without being a pain to draw. My homemade press from an old bum warmer seat pad seemed to work out pretty good for the shaping.