lanternnate

Members
  • Content count

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About lanternnate

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday March 21

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vermont
  • Interests
    bladesmithing
  1. I have *read* 5160 does not like to weld to itself, and the recommendation is to set your stack so the 5160 is not the outside layers. Based on your counts my guess is you have 5160-1075-5160-1075-5160, so that could be an issue. This is purely theoretical coming from me as I have read about but not yet attempted. Hopefully someone with some actual experience on the topic can jump in.
  2. I've been searching through threads here and elsewhere, and I've found plenty of guides through from start to finish. I'm looking for some guidance on restarting when things didn't work out. I had a go today at heat treating some 5160 blades. First time trying 5160, so these were two practice pieces I had made to make sure I had the full process down before mangling something with more time invested. Propane forge was the heat source and preheated canola oil was the quenchent. The first attempt did not result in a hardened blade (file dug in). I believe my mistake was going too soon after hitting non magnetic and not getting quite hot enough. I reheated, this time holding a little longer past non magnetic and requenched. It hardened this time, but also took a nasty warp. The second blade I gave the extra time past non magnetic on the first go round and it hardened and also did not warp at all. Blades were not the same profile but we're the same thickness (1/8" approximately). I figure it's always possible that odds just resulted in one warp and one no warp, but I'm wondering if I needed to do something to "reset" after the initial fail. If I had gone all the way back to the beginning of the process and done 3 rounds of normalizing over again would that have reduced the chances of warping?
  3. No, but practicing wood working basics on cheap pine before mangling an expensive piece of maple always seemed to make sense to me. From a practice perspective, it's basically cheap square stock to attempt to see if you can figure out how to make it a shape other than square stock. If it's cheap and easily accessible practice stock, I figure that makes for more opportunity to practice which should theoretically be a good thing (as long as you accept what it is and what parts you can really practice, as in it's not a way to practice proper heat treating for example). As far as making things out of them rather than just using as practice steel, folks seem to love the novelty factor. In that vein, people really seem to like the head still being in tact in whatever the final thing is. It lets them identify what it once was and people like the this "thing" was made into this "other thing" concept.
  4. Thanks guys. I'm really happy the advise is NOT to radius the edges. I was very nervous that it would be one of those things a new owner was expected to know how to do and I'd ruin the anvil in the process. Just lightly sanding the absolute sharpness off is something I should be able to approach without feeling like I'm on the edge of a cardiac trauma event.
  5. My birthday is next week, and apparently my wife has taken notice of me constantly searching classifieds for anvils and debating aloud with myself if I should keep waiting for a used anvil or just buy a new farriers anvil to have something a little better than what I have. I came home tonight to find sitting in my driveway a brand new Rigid Peddinghaus anvil. It's the 165 lb (75kg) model. It's a far nicer anvil than anything I would have considered buying for myself. My wife had apparently struck up an email conversation with the folks at Ken's Iron who she knew I had recently purchased a bunch of tongs kits from. They guided her through all the options and in and outs of buying an anvil. Pretty cool considering they don't themselves actually sell anvils. Needless to say my wife is obviously too good for me. Any care and feeding advice for a new anvil? I had read a bunch about radiusing edges on old anvils to cover up chips and what not. Is this something that should be done to a new anvil proactively, or should I leave it as is? The edges currently have what appears to be a 45 degree straight chamfer. I also need to figure out a proper stand. My couple of strapped together 4x4s my current railroad track anvil is sitting on aren't going to cut it One of the things I'm most excited about is having a hardy hole. Picking the first hardy tool to attempt to fashion for it is going to be a hard choice. I'm leaning towards spring fuller. I feel like I'm going from a tricycle to a Jaguar. So many new things to figure out. I'm super excited. I just hope I can drive this new beauty without crashing it!
  6. It seems to hold generally well. In the pic is my trash shop knife and it has stayed in tact. I haven't done any purposeful wear testing. The commercial etching/marking tools use AC for the marking setting, so if you have access to an AC source at suitable power it might mark even better. Just manually reversing seems to do a ok job though.
  7. Ship it south of the equator. Their toilet bowls flush backwards, maybe they open wine that way too
  8. But you don't get your official sticker of greeniness for that I completely agree with you from a logical perspective, but I used to work at a college. It's very much a case of jumping through formality hoops to get official certifications of "green" status. Nobody involved fools themselves into thinking it's anything other than a marketing expense to have that status to attract students. I was heavily involved in campus construction projects, and some of the hoop jumping was rather silly but everyone understood the game.
  9. Colleges and Universities here are big on promoting their green statuses. That typically means they have some formal recycling organization they are linked up with for any generated scrap.
  10. I'm not sure there's too many of those in the Northeast. The yards seem to be either selling as parts, or the "metal" yards are buy/collect then selling somewhere else in bulk without any interest to sell to random Joe.
  11. This is the very first thing I hammered out. Ground to death with a stone wheel on a bench grinder after the hammering :/ It was an exercise of I have no clue what I'm really doing and trying to work it out as I went. Much research and studying followed I gave it to my old man as joking repayment for a bunch of copper pipe and cinder blocks I had ruined as a young child trying to pretend I was a a blacksmith. He hung it proudly on the wall despite the ugliness.
  12. That's one bold pattern. I like it. What size stock and layer count?
  13. You can temper an extra time to little to no ill effects, but not tempering may cause blade failure. I'd suggest a better safe than sorry temper. Cool looking pattern you got!
  14. My process is similar to JHCC's. You don't need much juice. I use a tiny little 12v wall plug charger meant to charge the battery to an ice fishing camera. It's only half an amp. Instead of a q tip I use cut off bits of old t shirt made into pads. Etching solution is just water and standard salt. If you flip the positive and negative after you etch for depth you can blacken. This was my first test run including blackening.
  15. You can also use electrical tape to make a quick stencil. Tape the piece with electrical tape then tape on a print out of what you want to etch. Cut out where you want etched with an exacto blade and etch away.