lanternnate

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About lanternnate

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday March 21

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vermont
  • Interests
    bladesmithing
  1. Awesome, thanks for the extra explanation Jim. Definitely gives it something extra beyond the standard cable weld. Frosty, first you start work on a seax, now your daydreaming about pattern welded steel? You're standing on the edge of a cliff about to fall long and hard into the obsession of bladesmithing. Do Wiley Coyote proud and keep walking forward
  2. Some time killer! Your work is an inspiration as always. I'm struggling to picture in my head how the foil was incorporated. Did you untwist the cable and insert it between the threads, or some other approach?
  3. I was unhappy with some grinder marks, so I decided hand sanding was required to reach a finish I'd be satisfied with. Took it all the way back to 220 then worked my way back up to 2000. The hamon initially went away when I made that big jump back to 220, but then started coming back out as I worked up the grits. That was kind of interesting to see. I've tried an edge quench on 1080 that didn't have this behavior, and this is the first real hamon I've worked with, so cool to see the differences. Sorry, it was impossible to catch the hamon in the picture without also getting reflection glare. I need to get some more lemon juice now to try the etching again. We'll see if we can really get this to pop.
  4. Got a little more time in today. Worked my way up to a trizact A30. I needed to just see if there would be a hamon, so I did a quick lemon juice scrub down. I need to spend more quality time with it to really bring it out, but there's a hamon! The little dark spot is just still wet, not some crazy etch blotch.
  5. Ehh... overhardened blades on something whirling that fast smacking 2 inch saplings would make me purdy nervous. I don't know for sure if the John Deere blades for that equipment is also spring steel, but I would theorize yes. Brushog blades, which seems to be more the alley of your equipment, are 5160 right around that 40 Rockwell also. Unless you're confident you can get the hardness back out, I'd vote sharpen. Ok actually I vote buy new ones and forge the old ones into knives
  6. You're working up a 2x72 right Frosty? I'd like to be fiddling on the same. That little 1x42 the blade is leaning on is all I have, and this project is showing it's limits. To get into some of the curves I ended up using a combination of files and my dremel. A 2x72 with a small wheel attachment would have been dandy. Something that just tracked a little better than this thing wouldn't hurt either I've been working up a parts/wish list, but a "real" grinder just isn't in the cards for me yet.
  7. As JHCC said John Deere advertises their blades as spring steel. They also advertise they are heat treated to 40-45 Rockwell. https://t.jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/4382_fb_Lawn_Mower_Blades.htm I don't know their specific heat treat process to get to that hardness level, but from the data sheets I've looked at it would be something like a 900 degree F temper to bring the steel back down to 40-45 after hardening. Unless you have a good heat treat kiln or are good at judging temp by color with a torch (I use a toaster oven...), I'd say just sharpen them trying not to overheat them too bad. Given where they are already tempered at, they have plenty of wiggle on temp. I've sharpened John Deere blades multiple times. It's almost frustrating that they take resharpening as well as they do because I like to use the worn out ones for knives
  8. I warned updates would come slow. Took a bit to work up the nerve to go to the grinder with it, but first run of grinder cleanup is done. I was nervous about keeping all of the grinds straight and even over this length of blade, but Theo's already set in bevels gave a solid reference point that I just had to flow with. Need to start working up the grits then move to hand finishing next. I also spent some quality time with the handle section and some files to get everything squared up and ready for the wood scales there.
  9. White out is readily available for purchase without needing to find a specialty store. It might not be the cheapest route, but qualifies as cheap enough. It might not be the best, but qualifies as good enough. When something is cheap enough and good enough and easy to get, there is little motivation to find something slightly better or slightly cheaper but more of a hassle to find or have to make. That would be my take as to why you still see so many just use white out over having developed some replacement concoction.
  10. For upsetting them for hawks my advice is: Get it hot, all the way through hot because a cold core will mess you up. Try to keep the blows as square on as you can. Hit it good and hard, tappity tap doesn't cut it. Correct the squirreling when it starts. If you let it get real bent it will keep wanting to go that way so when it starts to bend out flip on side and straighten. You can also rotate the spike so you aren't always hitting the same way (compensates a bit for blows really not being perfectly square on). The occasional flip and hit from the other side can help sometimes to. Mostly hit it hot and hard
  11. The recommendation I've seen is first temper just temper, clamp for second temper and do subsequent tempering runs for straightening if required. There is also the window of opportunity right after the quench to straighten before it drops below 400, but that really only comes into play for blatantly obvious warps.
  12. If it's going to go into something like a hard kydex sheath, I would think you would want it edge out as Theo has done. That way the edge can be fully covered and locked into the hard kydex. I'm envisioning something like the letter C in kydex that this thing could lock into on your back and you could reach back grab the handle to unclick out the of the sheath and the natural motion of bringing it around front will also flip it straight. I could be totally off though and Theo has some other devious plan Either way I kind of like the made engineer meets bladesmith of it all and I'm curious to see where it goes.
  13. Just finished up a neck knife as a present for a friend. I haven't done much making for others, so I put a lot of time into this one because you really want it to be good if someone else is going to use it. Here you see the birth and growing up of this knife Started out as a 2"x2"X1/4" piece of cruforge v I cut off a larger piece destined for another project. I first had to forge that down then draw it out for something roughly the right size to get started with, then I forged my blade. He wanted a flat/saber grind so that's what it has. Took the hand sanding after to a 600 grit satin finish. Handle is a black and red G10 he picked out with nickel silver pins. I also made a kydex sheath for it so he can hang it around his neck. The aim is to be a handy knife for when he's fishing. Hopefully it holds up and does good by him.
  14. I received my collaboration project from Theo today. I thought I'd start a work in progress thread to share how it comes together. Updates won't necessarily be fast and furious because I plan to really take my time with this one, but I'll check in as I complete major steps. To get started, here is the start of the project as I received it. Consider this proof that if it ends up a mess it obviously wasn't Theo's fault. The blade is an integral dagger forged from W2. Theo tells me it should have a hamon down the center when all done. I have acquired some curly koa for the handle with the assistance of my woodworking buddy. Up next I'm on the hunt for some mosaic pins.
  15. I haven't mastered discerning sparks (or sound) so my cave man approach: take small piece, make small piece thin, make small piece hot, make small piece cold fast, hit small piece hard, did small piece break? Neither scientific or efficient, but effective.