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I Forge Iron

It followed me home


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And to have several different ones so that visitors/students can find the *right* one for their use too.  As I "de-accession" my kit I have been giving away stuff along with selling and the more they buy the more I load them up as well...an old family friend is due to come over soon.  I hope his back is stout!

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John, I was thinking about taking the finish off and making the handle a little more rectangular, but the red is so cool, and I figured I should put some hours on it before modifying it.

Thomas, I had you in mind when I bought this, as I know you have all sorts of different hammers for all sorts of different people!

I also remember you talking about students complaining about their hammer and how it is the reason they can’t forge something, but then you use the same hammer and show them that a craftsman doesn’t blame their tools.

And wasn’t it you who said that once you were demoing and were hammering something very small with the peen end of a hammer and someone in the audience was amazed? I found myself doing that the other week and thought of reading that here on the forum.

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If the red is a stain with a clear lacquer over it, you can try sanding off the lacquer and leaving the stain. If it's a red-tinted finish, you could sand it off where your hand comes into contact with the handle and leave the rest.

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You could probably sand it all off and mix some red dye into turpentine or another solvent. Then you can recolor it as you like.. It might be worthwhile to try your mix on a test piece of hickory (or similarly colored wood) so you can get the color right.

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On 2/5/2023 at 11:30 PM, Chad J. said:

Nice find,  I'm curious why he's wearing a lab coat in the picture though...

Hey Chad,

 

When i took shop in school, that actually was the coveralls of the time. ( I think I just dated myself)

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Today’s load:

D0A9658C-8EAC-46F4-B4D4-3B7317D3D92E.jpeg.8d4dee4a3f134404bd2393a862fb6708.jpeg
two big gears from a NC hydraulic bender

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and a box of bearings all from the same machine overhaul.

If I got there before they started cleaning up, I could have gotten some more fun stuff… This is all they saved for me. 
(I don’t know how I could have handled them but the rotating tables were scrapped also. 4’x6’ 6” thick with 4’ diameter 6” thick ring gears bolted to the bottom. I never saw the table bearings… There was plenty of other small pieces though.)

Keep it fun,

David

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Came across this beast of a ball peen hammer at a new antique mall that opened nearby. Got it for $7.50!

received_6707241332636859.thumb.jpeg.35c0021da39897d955ddcaa62acf25f2.jpeg

Also picked up these lightweight tongs for cheap. No cracks, no slip, seem to be in good condition! 

received_731714381915675.thumb.jpeg.b4359e6ed46071689ff78d150aa0b113.jpeg

Then purchased a 12lb maul with new hand carved handle from someone on FB for twenty bucks. Not a bad haul overall!

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Been feeling pretty ucky all week so haven't done any forging. Felt good to do something shop adjacent today, lol

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17 hours ago, Shainarue said:

Yeah, I love looking at all the stuff in antique stores

  So do I and every now and then you find a good deal.  There was one here that recently closed up and had a sale I went to and they had a "fossil dinosaur egg" marked down to $1200.  It looked like eroded sandstone to me.

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Scott, I think you nailed that one.  Often you'll find the "dinosaur eggs" to be concretions; objects that have formed in a spherical or elliptical shape due to cementation or precipitation in a sandstone or limestone formation...not an egg, LOL  The "eggs" are kinda like the "cannon balls" that are actually, usually steel balls from ball mills that flea markets try to pawn off on folks.

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North west Arkansas is notorious for that!!! People pick up the steel balls used in feed hoppers In chicken houses and then try to sell them in antique stores, 

Im settin here thinkin good grief people!!! The battles that happened around NWA were relatively small compared to the ones back east, y’all have more “cannon” balls for sell in the flea markets of Lincoln and prairie grove than the actual shots that were ever fired there!!!

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Two ways to tell the difference between mill balls and CW cannon balls is size.  The commonest calibers of cannon during the CW were 6 pounders (3.67" caliber) and 12 pounders (4.62" caliber).  There were a few odd ball others but they were rare.  Case shot fired a group of balls 1" in diameter.  So, if a rusty old ball is other than these diameters it is almost certainly a mill ball.

Also, modern mill balls are steel while CW cannon projectiles were usually cast iron.  So, a spark test will tell the difference.

Finally, solid cannon balls were minority of the ammunition fired or carried during the CW.  Most were shells (hollow with a time fuze) or cannister (lots of small 1" balls).  

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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