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I Forge Iron

It followed me home


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4 hours ago, anvil said:

The easiest way I have found to straighten coil spring is with a post vice,scrolling wrench and bending forks of the right size. Coil springs make great chisels, hot and cold, punches, drifts, center punches. 

 WEll i think that depend of thicknes of coil spring, some coil spring maybe in my case wich is 1/2 inch in diameter deserve hammer treatment.

 

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For beginner bladesmiths I suggest cutting down the side of the coil, (or both) to get a bunch of ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( pieces that are all the same alloy so you can make a lot of test pieces and learn the forging and heat treat temps and break the finished blades to learn what you did right and what you did wrong.

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Actually, bending forks, a scrolling wrench, and a post vice will handle much heavier stock than that, even for a single smith, usually faster, more precise, and less hammer marks on your iron. If you have never tried them, put them on your to do someday list. One of the "secrets" is to have them the proper size for the stock you are using. The opening should be just a little bigger than your stock. 

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I bought those 

And Noo it's tempting but I won't weld rod to french wrench so I could twist materials 

Ian wondering this hatchet shaped hammer was it chip off or is it like some fuller 

If I weld leaf spring to it and make it like hot cut will I ruin it , o think that one part is broke it does not have cuting edge

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I remember seeing a tool like that with a shallow groove in its working edge being called a caulking tool, something used by folks who built boilers or other pressure vessels.  I think I have one in my pile that I've never used for anything.  I don't think a grooved working edge like that would hold up long on stone.

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Interesting tools!

A while ago this chain followed me home. The top section is 7/16 diameter, the middle is 1/4 and the bottom is 5/16. 
 

I know that I will have to move in a year, and was wondering if you think it is worth holding on to? Especially the small section. I can see the other sections being useful, stick it in the forge, put a finish on it and you have decorative chain. Thoughts?

8685044E-5A2B-42CA-A910-BD6EA8B3D605.jpeg

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Be wary of putting the 1/4” and 5/16” chains in your forge, they look plated with n your picture. They could be very useful and wouldn’t take up a bucket’s worth of space. I guess it all depends on how much you have to move, chain it not that hard to find.

Personally, I’d keep the non-plated chain. If you run into a time sensitive project where you need it, finding new chain without plating can be challenging.

Keep it fun,

David

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I recommend not throwing any chain you didn't make yourself in the forge, galvanized chain can rust under the right conditions but the zinc is still there. The galvy can be stripped by soaking in diluted muriatic or acetic acid acid or for longer in vinegar. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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