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I Forge Iron

It followed me home


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Look what I found :-) now should I make them into bicks that I can fit in my anvils hardy hole or make them I to stake anvils hmmm. The squared one is forged, the other was a union pacific railroad spike sledge. I'm not sure what steel they are made of but they are rusty and ring like bells

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That Sq one would make a great stake anvil!  Most "pick like" ones have a large eye for wooden handles and so hard to work stock to fit them for a shaft.

UP might be worth more as trading stock if you know any train enthusiasts...

You of course remember my stake anvils; you could make a suspiciously similar set for yourself...(except the short shaft was made from a sq rr spike sledge...)

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I'm on the lookout for more hammer heads like those. I'd deffinately make stake anvils out of them but you make what you could use more. 

Thomas, I apologize if it's been said before but what do you do around the area of the hammer eye on your stake anvils like those? 

I've welded one around the upset and it's ground flush, and left the other ground down flush with the top having the stake upset in the hammer eye. 

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That Sonn book is a real find!  (If you are interested in that type of stuff...) I also like McRaven's books as they have a different feel to them.  I realize that not everyone learns best from a single source and so having a range of sources to choose from helps.

Daswulf; I usually make a tenon out of the shaft leaving it a bit oversized at the base of the  tenon and hot fit the cold hammer head to it---to deal with the tapers in the eye. Then cut the tenon off a bit over long, heat real hot and rivet the hammer head in place with great vigor. Then dress the tenon face to the surface of the hammer head.  I have one, the tall one, where I have not welded it over on top---I was going to treat it like refacing an anvil with the Gunther-Schuler process; but so far a decade + later I have never needed to do so.  On the Shorter one a friend tig welded  the joint between tenon and hammer after it had been riveted and dressed. (Just because he could...)

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Mail call! Got the 5” dia, 1” bore pulley for the bandsaw:

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And the Resp-O-Rator arrived:

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Just need to replace the missing blade guides, mount a new blade, lengthen the clearance hole for the belt, and we should be ready to cut metal!

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I certainly will.

One thing that I particularly like about the design is that it puts the air intake behind your head and therefore farther from the grinder, the welder, or whatever else is throwing off stuff you don’t want to breathe. The one thing I dislike about the design is that it has a proprietary dust-only filter and therefore a proprietary bayonet fitting. However, I think I can make an adapter that will let me use a standard 3M P100-mounted filter, which in turn will mean that I can use a wide variety of filters, including for acid fumes, organic solvents, etc as well as dust. 

1 hour ago, JHCC said:

Just need to...

Sorry, forgot: and fit the new tires on the wheels. 

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My neighbor was working on a welding project , a couple weeks ago, and asked what I thought about it. I told him that a grinder wasn't going to help him, but by the end of the project he would either be a better welder or a better fitter.

Then I spent the next four hours teaching him both.

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That's quite the respirator John. I like having the intake away from the pollutant source. Being dust only is an issue though but adopting and adapting is what blacksmiths do. ;)

Perhaps if enough of us ask about suitable filters and then go elsewhere for the lack, they'll start making more.

Frosty The Lucky.

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