Michael Cochran Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 12 hours ago, Alan Evans said: Over here that number describes Oilite brand or sintered brass bearings. Compressed brass or bronze powder which has oil in the interstices. It is quite difficult to get anything else...I have been trying to find some plain/solid phosphor bronze bearings but nobody seem to stock anything but the oil filled sintered bronze. Alan That's about all the information I've found. I did find a melting point but I don't want to melt it. I'll keep diggin and see what I can find but so far it's not much I was hoping to make a higonokami style folder using some of it but unless I can find a way to anneal it I'll be out of luck. I have cut some samples off of one to play with before I try to make the knife so as to ruin as little as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Please be VERY careful to not grind or polish any brass/bronze/"copper alloys" containing Beryllium. Once I read up on it I went though and purged my scrap of anything that might be a Be containing alloy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 I had an interesting experience with them when I was making some bearing housings...not unlike this one... I had bored the hole a fraction too tight and having pushed the bush in could not get it out...unfortunately I had not welded the housing to the backplate. I did the welding with the bush inside and was horrified to discover afterwards that the cavity in the bush was almost full of oil. Could not believe there had been so much contained in the bush which basically looked like solid metal. I thought bother! I will go and make a pot of coffee and order up a replacement bush...by the time the coffee was brewed virtually all the oil had been sucked back into the bush. Phew! Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcostello Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Don't put a sintered bushing in Your pocket or on expensive paper either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 2 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: Please be VERY careful to not grind or polish any brass/bronze/"copper alloys" containing Beryllium. Once I read up on it I went though and purged my scrap of anything that might be a Be containing alloy! That's something I just read up on a couple days ago after being given a chunk of what I was told was beryllium copper. It's a nice big piece I could get several good guards and pommels from but think it's better off in the scrap yard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Hold on to the BeCu. We were paying over $20 a pound for it, and it is a wonderful alloy with may desirable attributes. We chemically polished the parys we made, and it looks like polished gold when done. The Be won't exceed 2%, but just follow proper procedures and you will be good. Look up the MSDS for C173, C175 which are common alloys. The issue is when polishing or melting when fine dust, or fumes are created. We literally ran tons of it through the machines at work. It is hot short, so you cannot forge it hot. Solution anneal it, then work it. Depending on the part the heat treat was generally done at 625°F-750°F for 2-2.5 hrs. I used to toss some bar ends into the oven with the parts and used them as punches. Non sparking, and tough. That is why it is used for everything from hammers, to knives tool wise. I have quite a bit of it here for projects. Personally I plan on doing any sanding, or polishing wet, and by hand to help mitigate any dust floating around, and for a bright polish just run out up to where I used to work, and have them dip it which will literally just takes seconds to polish it. I believe the spikes I made took 30 seconds to polish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 As my scrap pile gets pawed over by students; if I kept any it would be under lock and key! Lovely colour but I'm will to forego that along with not worrying about folks several generations down the ownership chain just doing a "quick buff"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 34 minutes ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said: Snip... We chemically polished the parys we made, and it looks like polished gold when done. Snip....and for a bright polish just run out up to where I used to work, and have them dip it which will literally just takes seconds to polish it. I believe the spikes I made took 30 seconds to polish. Tell me more about chemical polishing please! I know phosphoric acid will brighten aluminium, and I have frequently had Stainless Steel electro polished, but your process is new to me. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 I quick buff shouldn't be an issue. I have talked with the safety guys at the mill that supplied our material, and they mentioned it is a problem when chronic exposure is experienced. Hours over years, not a couple of minutes on a buffer, and stressed that it is less than 2% in the alloy. But I do understand your position when you have students grabbing material. My only point is, read up on what the alloy is capable of, how to work it, and follow the recommendations for PPE when needed, then use it if it fits your needs. Yes, it can be a hazard, but so is the infrared exposure to our eyes from the fires we use, or the contents of the coal smoke we generate. This is not a particularly safe hobby in many ways, but with proper education of the hazards and how to prepare for them, it can be very rewarding. I'll ask what the other one was but one was named Rosheen? IIRC it was chromic acid, and it was heated before dipping the parts. One was a powder, and the other was a liquid. Now that was definitely a mandatory PPE area due to the fumes. We made electrical contacts, and sometimes we would have to chem off small burrs, or eat the dimensions down a couple of "tenths" to bring them into spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Poet Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 1 minute ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said: Yes, it can be a hazard, but so is the infrared exposure to our eyes from the fires we use, or the contents of the coal smoke we generate. I wear glasses that block UV and IR and I religiously wear my face mask so much that I've almost forgotten what coal smoke smells like. I'm thinking it will pay off in 40 years when I can still see and breathe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1776 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 41 minutes ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said: Yes, it can be a hazard, but so is the infrared exposure to our eyes from the fires we use, or the contents of the coal smoke we generate. Oh. I don't have a coal forge, so I guess I don't need to worry about that. But what about the infrared? I only wear some safety goggles to protect my eyes from flying objects. Should I wear some anti-infrared glasses too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Martin Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 1 hour ago, 1776 said: Oh. I don't have a coal forge, so I guess I don't need to worry about that. But what about the infrared? I only wear some safety goggles to protect my eyes from flying objects. Should I wear some anti-infrared glasses too? We have a very long thread on this in the PPE topic- General consensus is, IIRC, don't worry about it if you DON'T stare into the fire constantly, but wear Shade 2# or 3# if you DO! Do wear some kind of impact resistant safety gasses at all times though. P.S. I'm no eye doctor, don't take my word for it. If in doubt, consult the experts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 And remember that most eye doctors will be clueless about forges and may offer you recommendations based on arc welding! You may want to tell them that the forge generates zero UV and it's the IR you are concerned about; may reference "glassblowers cataracts"...I had a friend who was an opthamologist and researched it for me once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Olson Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 16 hours ago, Iron Poet said: I wear glasses that block UV and IR and I religiously wear my face mask so much that I've almost forgotten what coal smoke smells like. I'm thinking it will pay off in 40 years when I can still see and breathe. Hey Poet. Where did you get your glasses. I bought some shade 3 clip ons from Amazon and the description says they block "some" Infra red. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 This is me and my son wearing Uvex S3430X (shade 3) goggles, which conform to ANSI Z87+ and CSA Z94.3. "ANSI Z87+" means that the goggles are rated for high-velocity impact. These particular lenses transmit 14% of visible light and absorb >99.9% of UV and >91% of IR. The only downside is that the low VLT means I need to keep the forge more brightly lit than is standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 GREETINGS ! Forging Folks : You might avoid wearing 'very' dark lenses by using a spot lamp to illuminate the area when you have to look into the fire to determine color or other observations Also, pulling the iron out of the fire for such observations, and then returning it to the fire, when done, may be worth the extra effort. Just sayin', SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Poet Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 12 hours ago, Kevin_Olson said: Hey Poet. Where did you get your glasses. I bought some shade 3 clip ons from Amazon and the description says they block "some" Infra red. They're prescription. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Bill Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Beryllium-Copper pliers, 6 1/2", Ampco P-30. No longer made with Be-Cu, this company's tools are now Al-Cu. Non-sparking, non-magnetic, developed for the oil and gas industry long ago. This pair has a pleasant "heft" and warmth, noticeably different than chromed steel (I do the "close your eyes" trick on friends who use pliers). A quick price check revealed I will not be using many bronze tools. Personally, I very much dislike pliers, avoid using them, and only have these as a curiosity. I once fired a mechanic who approached my 620 tractor with a pair of pliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 35 minutes ago, Randy Bill said: Beryllium-Copper pliers, 6 1/2", Ampco P-30. No longer made with Be-Cu, this company's tools are now Al-Cu. Non-sparking, non-magnetic, developed for the oil and gas industry long ago. This pair has a pleasant "heft" and warmth, noticeably different than chromed steel (I do the "close your eyes" trick on friends who use pliers). A quick price check revealed I will not be using many bronze tools. Personally, I very much dislike pliers, avoid using them, and only have these as a curiosity. I once fired a mechanic who approached my 620 tractor with a pair of pliers. Just about the only time I use pliers is for those annoying little spring clamps you find from time to time. I much prefer a good wrench or crescent wrench if I'm doing most anything. I would love to have some like yours to set on the shelf in my shop but it would probably never get used for anything more that a dust collector or paperweight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 stopped by the fleamarket on the way home from church and picked this one up; 8 pounds, looks to have been reforged from a standard sledge. Face is now square and swelled from the body. Straight Peen shows a trace of a cold shut from forging down the second face on the very edges where they swell from the original body. Looks to have the face a bit too hard as well. I'll regrind and retemper to suit myself and gussy it up a bit. Handle is still usable if it's reset lower onto it. US$8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 T. P. What is a "cold shur"? I would value a definition. Thank you, "en avence". SLAG. p.s. The obvious just bit me on my bottom. It's a "cold shut". Gotcha, guvnah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Well the reply was to be: "think of some ham fisted smith typing with 6 fingers and look at where a misstruck key would land you on an r" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 I'm more surprised that Thomas posted a picture! That's rare. Good find Thomas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desmond Redmon Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 The ground finally dried out enough for me to get it to the shed... It's good to have friends since this came from a farm near us... I received the forge, the blower, the PW 142lb as a package. The blower has a busted off attachment point but otherwise is in excellent shape (the shafts in on the gears are still shining clearly), the forge has a crack along the attachment point with the blower support arm but otherwise in really good shape. I dropped in a centaur forge large firepot since one of the tabs on the original pot, the tuyere plate and the clinker ball, and the hood are missing from the original set. Talking to a couple of really good welders I know and finding one who's really good at welding cast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Great score! I bet you could get $100 on eBay for the tuere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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