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About C-1ToolSteel

  • Rank
    Nut loose in the shop

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  • Location
    -Middle Tennessee
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, ANVILS, shooting, woodworking, leatherworking, praise music, acoustic guitar, song writing, recording, music production, you get the idea...

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  1. Here’s one: “Forged in Fire”
  2. Finished up a little bass I’ve been working on. Now I need to come up with something to make that I can put it on... Maybe a lamp or something?
  3. Have you tried the ring and rebound tests?
  4. Nchammer, Great looking knife for your first! Personally, I think the proportions would look a tad better with a smaller choil and maybe a little bit bigger of a guard. Just me though... One more thing... I’m not sure why 1095 is recommended so often as a great steel for beginners, because a soak time in hardening is recommended. 1084 is easier for beginners who don’t have a controlled heat treating oven at their disposal. Overall, a very nice job.
  5. You can order a ductile iron teardrop-shaped tomahawk drift from a number of the major online blacksmith supplies for about $30 USD.
  6. If you have some pictures to show us, that would help. I’m a bit of a Hay Budden nerd, and I can usually identify them by their distinct shape (though the earlier ones can be harder to tell). As far as logos go, pretty much all Hay Buddens should have the same logo with the small exception of the ones that were branded under other stores’ names. Also keep in mind that logos on the side (like on my Hay Budden) are in many cases illegible from years of use/rust. Sometimes the serial number (located on front of foot, under the horn) survives longer than the logo and can also be used for identification. As Mr. Powers said, the depression under the base is a good way to tell. One more thought... Hay Buddens became famous for their excellent quality when they started (around 1908) making them with solid steel from the waist up, so the earlier ones, though great anvils, don’t actually have anything more special about them than any other good anvil brand. You can tell the older ones apart by the line (roughly 1/2” below the face) where the steel faceplate ends. Hope this helps, and good luck with this most excellent endeavor!
  7. Getting off topic is strictly forbidden on this forum. Lol, just kidding
  8. Nice English made coach maker’s style anvil. I’ve seen more William Fosters in this pattern than any other brand. The condition is quite decent, especially considering it’s age. It would make a great anvil for knife-making/general smithing, and the side-shelf only adds to its usefulness. Wether it’s worth buying, of course, depends upon the price and how much you want it.
  9. Oh, good observation. The ones I’m use to have a stationary head and cross feed on the table...
  10. Do you have experience forge welding (or even heat-treating) items over 100 lbs? Even the most experienced smiths on here would struggle to accomplish such a task. I see a very usable anvil that could easily be ruined by a failed attempt at re-faceplating!
  11. Looks like quite the score for 300 bucks! Now, are my eyes lying to me, or does your grinder not have a cross feed?
  12. Thanks for those kind words, gents! Yes, the palm swell makes for a very comfortable handle! I’m a little surprised I don’t see all that many knives being made with that general handle shape.
  13. Howdy folks! Been a while since I’ve posted anything, but thought I’d share my most recent knife. I don’t really consider myself a knife-maker... I would need a lot more experience and equipment to crank them out and make money, but I met a new friend who was so sold on the idea of me making him a custom blade, I gave in. He came over to talk about what he wanted, and I sketched out a design that he liked. He chose a forged (1080) blade, ironwood (good choice!) for the handle, vine-like filework on the handle spine, and a leather cross-draw sheath (a first for me). I’m pleased with how everything came out and I hope is will be too. Positive or negative input is always appreciated!