• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About C-1ToolSteel

  • Rank
    Nut loose in the shop
  • Birthday January 25

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    -Middle Tennessee
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, ANVILS, shooting, woodworking, leatherworking, praise music, acoustic guitar, song writing, recording, music production, you get the idea...

Recent Profile Visitors

2,528 profile views
  1. Yep. 228 lbs is what it weighed at the factory. That is a great score at less that 1$/lb. Have fun forging on it, and whatever you do, don't weld or grind on the face! She's purdy.
  2. Placing a magnet on the underside of the face should deaden the ring.
  3. I can't tell much from that picture, but I didn't see anything that looks like ledges on the feet of the second one. It definitely has the look of a farrier's pattern Trenton or Arm & Hammer to me.
  4. Are you SURE that hand ain't there to show off your awesome smith's scars?!!
  5. "I'm gonna be a knife maker when I grow up, because there is a big shortage of knife makers..." "How can I get a really nice anvil (WITH HORN) without paying for one?" rebar leaf blower I can't find a... ...when I get around to it.
  6. I've seen a handful of anvils like yours that look like a Vulcan, but do not have the logo on the side. I can't tell for sure if they were made by Vulcan, but they were made the same way. Cast iron with a thin steel faceplate. As long as you don't abuse it, (this type of anvil is prone to chipping) it will serve you well.
  7. Looks to me like maybe you should have done more bevelling before heat treat. I would anneal it, then straighten it cold in you vise using a three pin setup. After that, you can take a file and finish the bevel with it. Trying to fix a mistake with power tools (especially if you are realitively inexperienced) will often just make a bigger one. This is looking at it by a knife maker's viewpoint, and not a chef's. If you will be using it past the bevel a lot, that would be something to consider.
  8. As for improving hammer technique, you really just need to hammer more hot steel, and it will come naturally. Everybody's first project has marks like that if not worse. Dressing your hammer will help a ton if you haven't already. Most any larger hammer you buy will have a very slightly rounded face with about a 45 degree chamfer all the way around. This keeps the face from chipping and injuring the user, but is by no means ready for blacksmith work. Just grind it to a smoth radius instead of a sharp angle, and you will get better results.
  9. Beautiful hammer, Mark, and those knives keep getting better. Sharp looking handle on the recurve style knife.
  10. Note that the second one has very little mass and would pretty soon make you want to forget the Viking jazz.
  11. Sending PM.
  12. That backsaw would be a fun restoration project. Nice finds!
  13. Naw, Scrambler, ain't nothin' wrong with accidentally giving misinformation because you were trying to help. Hey, I think I actually do that from time to time. You're FINE. Now that dude with the torch, on the other hand...
  14. That is an absolute STEAL!!! Yes, the 2 is part of the weight markings. The mark on the waist near the handling hole is trivial. Congratulations on a REALLY nice score!
  15. I have to disagree with Scrambler82. The thought of a torch cut on a cast steel anvil opening up like a crack in a green log makes no sense to me. It isn't in a bad spot, so why would it be worth spending 200 bucks on a mostly aesthetic repair? That anvil is a steal for $75. Use it for a while, then decide if you still want to repair it. Also, being a cast steel anvil, I would personally (although others would cringe) take a belt sander to the face if the pitting is causing problems.