Desmond Redmon

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About Desmond Redmon

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Venedocia, Ohio, USA
  • Interests
    Learning, Understanding, Applying
  1. Thank you all for the info, and I do understand the advice to wait a year before making major changes. My I took round stone to the chips I was having trouble with and kind of refined the jagged points out to smooth enough to work with. My small tweek was as I said more of an OCD thing since I had a perfectly usable notch if I smoothed out the sharp edge... Figure if I can manage to grind away much material with a 200 grit stone I would end up a world champion arm wrestler, alas I ran out of sharp edge before I developed a 30" bicep
  2. As I discussed with Glenn tonight, this was a bit of a leading question... I was actually trying to use the few chips in the edge of my anvil to help fuller on a three dimensional shape rather than a my anvil is chipped away to nothing how do I put a 90 degree angle on it... I was exploring hammer only scrolling, and found I was picking up impressions from the chip I was trying to use to help me keep the radius of the rod while scrolling. I am still exploring the use of each tool an operation and the produced part was just a fire poker to use on the forge (I wanted one that the handle hung down when dropped against the wall of the forge body). Yet all of the advice I see is DO NOT EVER DO x. I was trying to all you folks into elaborating a bit more on when you do what to repair a chip, or use a chip to your advantage. My bad for the somewhat deliberately misleading question, but he what without the why is extremely frustrating to read page after page... Never leading me (or any other newbie( to a greater understanding. So my bad, and thank each of you for the input.
  3. OK, I have been reading for a week or so (in my few mins of free time), and I see a huge majority of people saying don't grind, weld etc to repair edges. My edges are leaving marks that are more unsightly and problematic, and I have a variation of the questions I've seen asked frequently... I don't want to grind or weld to make a perfect edge, what I am trying to decide is how to blend the sharp points back so they don't gouge my work leaving "ugly" marks. I'm thinking of using a high hardness round file to remove the sharp points inside of the chip marks and using them for different sized radius grooves for fullering and shaping. Other than the very slight metal removal, are there any other dangers to the anvil in feathering off the sharp edges of the chips? Yes I know it's more or less an OCD question, but as a machinist I hate seeing sharp edges which concentrate stresses ...
  4. Looks like a good start man, keep it up
  5. Looking really good congratz mate!
  6. From the picture that's going to be the low end if anyone else is in competition I think. Most run 3-500 if in working order, and that looks in really good shape. Also depends how much the auctioneer knows about the value as well. I had to do a lot of searching for images and such while I was rebuilding mine, short of an electric blower these are really nice to use.
  7. Just a thought, put a piece of steel in the other side of the vice (if you insert your piece on the right side of the jaw, put the piece in the left most edge of the jaw) that is the same size or ideally slightly smaller. Vices that get warn a bit will pull off center creating a less than parallel surface for holding your work piece. With cold mild steel you have about 20% grip on a heavily warn vice without a spacer which gives you around 60% if it is slightly smaller (less than the thickness of your fingernail) than the workpiece.
  8. The only times I have personally applied heat to an antler was unintentional, i.e I was drilling and caused heat because the drill wasn't evacuating the chips well enough. That one time experience would lead me to believe that applying heat to them would be bad for long term usage. I ended up scrapping a 4" section of antler because it caused checking and cracking in the antler itself and lead to it quickly loosing its' grip on the tang of the chisel I was working on. I found it much more stable to either drill then shape the socket with a set of gun files install a brass collar then drive the tool into the antler, or drill the hole large enough for the tang to slip 75% or so into the antler then put epoxy in the hole and drive the tool into the seat. I am not sure how it would work for knife handles since the porous nature of the main trunk of the antler would make it unsuitable for a handle unless sliced into scales and riveted to the tang perhaps? Let me know how you do it and what you end up thinking I would love to know since at some point I will make a knife I'm sure.
  9. A pair of coyote got stuck in my woodshop overnight which left them in a very bad mood when I went to open the door (still not sure how I didn't hit my head when I did a superman flight out the door). A 1100lb bull decided to take up residence in the woodshop. A 150ish lb Saanen wether who loved to sleep in the wood shavings after a day of heavy planing in the shop that stayed for 5 years roaming around the shop and outbuildings. And sadly a great horned owl that had been hit by a car tried to hide in the shop, even though I got it to the local raptor rehabilitator when I found it in the morning it's wing was broken and had to be put down, that was truly amazing since it let me handle it without gloves and never even snapped at me when I picked it up and put it in the truck and drove with it in the passenger seat for an hour to the rehab center. A rather Well I suppose my shop buddy qualifies as a weird animal in the shop, so here's one of Ubie my fox too....
  10. I want to see what my friends come up with since a couple of them have pipe certs etc and know the welders in the area better than I do so I'm waiting to give them a few days to see what they come up with.
  11. The ground finally dried out enough for me to get it to the shed... It's good to have friends since this came from a farm near us... I received the forge, the blower, the PW 142lb as a package. The blower has a busted off attachment point but otherwise is in excellent shape (the shafts in on the gears are still shining clearly), the forge has a crack along the attachment point with the blower support arm but otherwise in really good shape. I dropped in a centaur forge large firepot since one of the tabs on the original pot, the tuyere plate and the clinker ball, and the hood are missing from the original set. Talking to a couple of really good welders I know and finding one who's really good at welding cast.
  12. Nice!
  13. I needed a rod with minimal delay (between work and home) so I cheated and bought a 3/4 a510 at tractor supply, equivalent to AISI 1018.
  14. Thanks for the input, I thought about the point a bit after I left the meeting. Second project started, but not finished had trouble lining my body up to use the edge of the anvil to form the shoulder at the top of the hardy. Since I don't have any hardy's at all yet I set to work on making a hot cut off (had to cut this project off with a hacksaw due to vertical design of my temporary forge). Then the makeshift blower died and I had to quit before finishing drawing out the cutting edge (which is small 1.25"). Upset a 3/4" round rod into a 1" sq with a taper, drove it into the hardy 1/4" to set my size and form a bit of a snug fit. Then cut the end of the rod off (too long since it sticks up way farther than I wanted to). Then reheated and started to draw out the hot cut blade. And the hair dryer blower failed... Went to the local scavenger's house and rooted through piles until I found a damaged but potentially repairable Royal Western Chief cast iron blower with a broken shaft. By the time I repair it hopefully the ground will be solid enough to move the forge into place and start using a real forge... Please by all means comment on with things I should work on, or seek to improve. I am new to this so I don't even know what I don't know.
  15. Visited the Maumee Valley Blacksmiths today, great group of very knowledgable folks. I walked in with some steel and a bit of time and received a good bit of information, a heap of humility, and perhaps a thimble full of wisdom. They were all great at helping me to learn hammer control, flame control, and ingenuity. I spent a lot more time watching others and listening and made a small project stopping to talk about what I was doing at each step and (more importantly) why I was doing it. Cannot thank these volunteers nearly enough for all of their time and help. So Tada my first wall hook.