I have a M1 carbine that wasn't in a stock a customer brought in. It isn't rusted just frozen up  where it has sit for so long. I have all the Blacksmith solutions I can think of in the shop but, still I cannot get the trigger and hammer to move. Finally got the slide and magazine buttons to move. Safety and trigger till won't budge.

 Lane Custom Hydrographics

Edited September 29, 20196 yr by Roy56
Name change.

Break Free

I get some of the oddest requests for things to do. It is going to cost more for me to repair, restore and restock the rifle than one would cost at a pawn shop

7 hours ago, Steve Shimanek said:

Break Free

Thank you

same guy brought me a FN49. No stock, parts missing with a schematic for a Enfield No 1 MK 3. Tool 3 days to convince him what he really had. But, as long as he wants to pay me, I'll keep looking for parts and putting them together

Like most of the previous posters I use WD40 or GT85. Unfortunately the rules behind taking substances on site these days and needing full COSH assessments for everything don't allow home mixed concoctions. 

Way back when though on compressors with 2 foot diameter I would put a couple of inches of paraffin and diesel on the top of the cylinder and light it with a rag, it heated the cylinder and the oil mix got very hot and thin and worked it way right through. 

Heat. 

The rusted parts took a while to get that way. Do not get in a hurry to free them up and working.  

The parts will eventually break loose by using one or more of the above methods. Give which ever method you choose time to work. 

electrolysis....... 

I find that a 50/50 mix of acetone & Dexron automatic fluid works very well on frozen rusted parts. It is on a par with Kroil which also works well.

The muzzleloading forum that I belong to recommends EVAPORUST.  I have not tried it as no one around here carries it. I Use PB Blaster and Naval Jelly. These guys are using it on antique flintlocks, and It supposedly doesn't leave a grey film like Naval Jelly.

I use Evaporust on items like barrel's & reciever's, flat surfaces of all muzzleloader's & MILSERP  arms I'm restoring. However to loosen frozen parts like bolts, trigger assembly's, locks etc. the mix of acetone & trans fluid or Kroil works better for me.

Have you tried Walmart?  The one near me carries EVAP-O-RUST and naval jelly. I know different stores, different stock. 

I like ATF/acetone

Pnut

P/B Blaster use it all the time in welding shop on farm eqt

KROIL

Not rust per se, but related, I,ve just today started to re new my old motorcycle, hasn,t run since the late 80,s, [ family , work, yada yada], apon pullng the carburettors, I discovered that the slides had seized in the throttle bodies, as they were only a 100 or so hrs used since the bodies were last sleeved, I,d like to save them. They are currently soaking in a wd 40 mix, but I was wondering if someone might have had this issue before. As the bodies are made of pot metal, any introduction of heat must be very judicious, any and all advice appreciated.

Without seeing it in person I would say Kroil for rust. Let it soak in some for a week and check it. Try rapping on the pins holding them to help loosen them up.

If it is really bad electrolysis may be in order.

Do you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner? I saw an article in an old Shooting Times magazine about using one to free up a dug up Colt single action army that was just a wad of rust.

Luckily Carbine parts are available, so as a last resort just swap it out.

 

 

Dasher, try sticking them in an oven and run it up to around 120C-150C, and checking them as it warms up. Hopefully they are just varnished up, and not corroded.

I had slides stuck like that. Sprayed them with starting fluid (ether) The cold freed them up so I could take them out.

Thanks big gun, I,m going to hold off putting them in the oven for now while I try a few other things, Irondragon's suggestion sounds logical, so that is next.

On 10/28/2019 at 8:07 AM, Dasher said:

I discovered that the slides had seized in the throttle bodies

Have you tried soaking in a solvent mixed with a penetrating oil? ATF and acetone comes to mind and try moving them every day or so. BGD's suggestion about the ultrasonic cleaner is a good idea. I'd put the ATF acetone mix in it and let it run for a few hours at least. The only problem might be covering the parts completely  because most of them are for jewelry so tend to be on the smaller side.

Pnut

Update, I've freed 1, still 1 to go, no hurry, it will come eventually I'm sure.

50/50 acetone and auto trans oil, works a treat, just have to leave it for a week or two sealed up so the acetone does not evaporate.

Kroil and ballistol is my magic potion

What Heelerau said. It's cheap and in my opinion beats all the commercial stuff hands down.

A while back someone here posted a proper lab test review of anti rust products. While near the top of the list Kroil and such pro anti-rust products were in the same company with 50/50 auto trans fluid and acetone. It was right at the top of the list, not #1 IIRC but close. 

The rating for effectiveness vs. cost was laughable the next closest to the home brew was something like 15x.

Frosty The Lucky.

The very first operation I did on my FWT LC Smith frame was to free up a hopelessly rusted and locked up rotary bolt and top snap.  I wrote into the LC Smith forum and received the suggestion to use electrolysis.  I knew absolutely nothing about the process, but I have a co/worker who is a collector and restorer of one-lung engines and such.

I used electrolysis with information I found online, and advice from my antique engine guy with very good results.  I wrote up and photographed the whole process in my LC Smith build on Shotgun Forums which, if I do say so myself, covers the subject pretty well. You can find it in Shotgun Forums, not Shotgun World, under the High End and Specialty Gun Forum.  The post is very close to the first one of the series of #150 so far, perhaps third or similar.

Why not post it on IForgeIron?