anvil

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Everything posted by anvil

  1. anvil

    Wobbly Bottom

    And yet another. I would not use lead either for the reasons given. Been there, done that. I've never used calk, but my gut tells me it wouldn't hold up over time, depending on how much actual work time you put in. I would use a wooden stump and chisel out the shape of the anvil and deep enough to hold as much sand as you need to level your anvil plus a half inch or so deeper for a good base under your anvil. And deep enough yet to hold your anvil in the stump. Once leveled, and if your fit is tight it won't move, you won't need any other fasteners, and the sand helps keep the ring down.
  2. I think this is one of the most important safety features there is. One more. Dont wear gloves. If your hand gets hot,stick your hand in the slack tub when headed from forge to anvil.
  3. anvil

    making a flatter

    Thanks and a big "Boy Howdy" to that. I owned my last place for over 30 years. To keep it an adventure, let's say someone followed Colorado traditions and jumped my claim. I hit the road for my sorta second journeymanship,, roady blacksmith is perhaps a better description, in '08, and am now back on my own ground. Trust that there is a lot of water under that bridge. Jennifer, this is a different place. And about 4 miles down the road. Alas, only a few of those ancient cedars, but its 20 acres, pond, adjudicated spring, mineral rights, a very cool cabin, a 30' pull behind RV, another ~14' x14' cabin by the pond, storage shed, a carport and views to die for. All amenities. I bought a 10 KW solar system. Complete but no batteries. I'm debating on setting this up on the shop, or on the house. Choices, choices This was totally unexpected and a stunning turnaround in my lifes journey. Im still living in a daze.
  4. anvil

    Anthracite JABOD Forge

    Correct. From clinker ball/ grate to the top of the firepot, not the top of the forge should be ~4". Then 2" of coke from the top of your firepot over your iron. This will give you a reducing/neutral fire around your work. Also, to clarify, I use a cast iron firepot with air coming in from the bottom, not a sideblast. I havent measured the diameter of my tuyer in a long time. Its somewhere around 1_1/4" to1_1/2" Yup, 4" diameter would be huge!
  5. anvil

    Anthracite JABOD Forge

    The answer to this is yes. There is plenty of info here on why. It cokes, its is a cleaner heat source by a magnitude, you need far less air to maintain your fire. This means you have a neutral to reducing fire, not an oxidizing one. Less air also means consume less coal, making it cost effective. Good advice. A days trip to a mine was always my way to get met coal. There are many ways to come by met coal with a little checking. Including dealing with your local farriers and blacksmiths. There may even be a mine close. You want 4" of coke under your work and 2" on the top for a good "1" shop. It's pretty much a minimum dimension for any firepot. For what it's worth, charcoal and met(bituminous coking coal) are the best fuel. Anth is a poor third place. The reason is charcoal is ~100% carbon. And with proper fire management, when using met coal your actual heat source is coke, which is ~100% carbon. Anth is never anywhere near 100% carbon, and all the impurities within are always affecting your iron.
  6. Actually, this is the correct answer for any free standing post vice. And "depending"actually means apy more force, more walk. Less force, less walk.
  7. anvil

    making a flatter

    I bought and paid for a piece of property early fall. No brag, just pure elation. Just proves my shop motto. "God smiles on fools and blacksmiths,, and I do fit that bill! Got everything in one place, and all the excavation/ dirt work for my "temporary" shop is done. Metal building ready to go up. I need some on rete work, so anxiously awaiting spring. Yesterday I dug my portable setup out of the snow and will put it in the existing carport. First fire soon.
  8. anvil

    Hammer handle ?'s

    Maybe you can find someone with the time to fit or make a handle for you.
  9. anvil

    Бюст орла

    incredible
  10. anvil

    Drill bit lubricant

    interesting topic. I use water for most drilling under 3/4". Rapid tap was my go to for larger. Then they changed the formula. Im curious why water works for a while.
  11. anvil

    Craft vs. Art

    I will relate a similar experience. I suspect this is more common within " the crafts", or at least within our craft. We are small and for the most part are at the very least familier with smiths throughout the country. First off i copyright all my drawings. This and a handful of money may get you a cup of coffee if you try to contest this after court. At the very least, this means on a per job basis, the concept, samples, and drawings are mine, not the clients. They pay me for design time, not the design. I designed a complex 3 tier'd chandelier for a "pink Caddy Mary Kay woman. Alas, that should have been a warning. She asked if she could keep the drawings for a bit and i agreed. a while later she nixed the job and i got my drawings back. A month or so i got a call from a smith in Sante Fe. He had a copy of my drawings and said the woman had asked for a bid. He then asked if i would let him use my design. I agreed. All was well, but we both passed this woman's name around with a warning. Lol, the final note was later. He let me know that he was unable to execute my design, simplified it and used his power tools extensively. He and I both agreed she got what she deserved. I must point out, in all my work with private clients, she was the only bad apple.
  12. anvil

    making a flatter

    nice tool
  13. anvil

    What steel for what tool

    Im at the tail end of a move. I got everything here and out of the weather the day before winter struck. So thats my reason and im sticking to it! or so the song goes' I should have about a cd,s worth of stored pdf's and many go back to the 18th century. Along with that Jim Fleming years ago, haunted the national archives for old microfish copied blacksmithing gems. These cover'd the 18th century thru the early 20th. Im really anxious to see how they have survived. When i find them, Ill let you know and share whatever you want. Ive got some good stuff from Prague and one ~ 1890's polish hardbound. And its a typical blacksmith source. The pics are all you need. My true treasure is a West Virginia University page for page(original german text on opposite page) from the Potsdam arsenal during the time of Frederic the Great. Its 3-4 volumes and is handy. Its out of print but still avalable with a bit of patience. It includes such details like the swarf from rifling and filing was re forged into brestplates for the curiassiers. Excellent trivia, and worth a beer in many bars,,, If you dont have it, Schwartzkops's book above is a truely great old textbook.
  14. anvil

    Buy a shear?

    A Beverly shear is a wonderful tool.
  15. anvil

    making a flatter

    Or at least make sure its temper is softer than your hammer.
  16. anvil

    First solid fuel forge fab.

    I recommend a clinker ball over a grate.
  17. anvil

    Craft vs. Art

    Excellent! Congrats! Thats always a rush. For me, doing my bid process is intense. It starts with a concept, Progresses thru drawings, a sample, and finally an accepted bid. And then the first down payment and a huge pile of steel laying at my doorstep. And then that moment of total panic,,, Oh my goodness,,, what have i done now.
  18. anvil

    What steel for what tool

    As far as the old books, it amazes me on just how many levels they break the temper colors down to for specific jobs. . And if you look at the old 18th century books, they are very similar to those around the end of the 19th and early 20th century. As far as contemporary, I agree. We are supposed to know. Thus my primary steels are the W series and the 10** series. As a side note, my basic intro came from Frank Turley around 1980. He indicated that Carpenter Tech was a great place for a fledgling smith to contact. There catalog was excellent and their tech support was as fascinated with traditional heat treating as todays contemporary knife smiths are with the high tech stuff of the day. Sometimes it was hard to get them off the phone. They looked at us as a window into their roots. Long story short, they reconfirmed to me that with experience and proper lighting, heat treating most all contemporary tool steels was very doable by knowing your colors. Im no expert like a smith from back in the day, but i get great pleasure attempting to heat treat a wood chisel for a specific type of wood. And hit or miss miss, the difference is so slight that most wood guys are satisfied anyway.
  19. Im pretty sure on the post, i screwed up. And that happens as you said on my pc as well. its saved me a number of times. Sizing rings on a cone mandrel. I figure the length needed to make my ring, then cut these on my shear or bandsaw to length. I do a quick and small scarf on each end. Then either by eye over the edge of the anvil, or most likely with a set of bending forks and scrolling wrench i turn them into a circle. half inch and smaller i do cold. 5/8" is a tossup for turning them hot or cold. i get them pretty close to a circle by eye. Then, depending on the job, a quick forge weld, which works well in the above grill. The weld is hidden from view. With a small scarf, you should be just a bit smaller than your final diameter with one heat, and this will be a bit thicker than your parent stock. Im not sure, but if you do a quick tack with welder or gas, it might break when shaped. This prolly depends on experience. a good cone mandrel has a tong groove which is really a bonus. Now lay out your ring diameter around the mandrel with chalk, or marker of choice. get a light heat, say a red or light orange on your ring(s). slide it on the mandrel and as you perfect your round with light hammer blows, it will slide down to your mark. lightly forge the f/w to proper cross section and you should be at the needed diameter and right on your mark. I dont use gas but this is a perfect place for a gas forge. Toss in a bunch, get them to temp, and size as above. I do these in my coal forge and can maintain about 4 at a constant temp basically the same way a hot shoer manages 4 shoes. I have yet been able to outwork this procedure. Of course when doing a lot, i do this as what i call a limited production run. cut all, scarf one end on all, then the other, turn them, weld them, fit them to the mandrel. If they get chamfer edges, I usually do that on long lengths before cutting them to the needed circumference. An added note: Im pretty fanatical about correcting edge bend and twist. Twist isnt an issue with round, but is an always thing with square stock. I check this at the end of every step above. when you work square on the mandrel, the bottom edge is the place for hammerwork. keep an eye on it and you can correct any twist at this step. This is critical when doing final assembly or your collars will be a bi**h.
  20. anvil

    What steel for what tool

    Excellent and thanks. I did not know this. Correct. However, we need not seek out steels from "daze gonne bye". The 10 series steels and the W1series tool steels do to this day work very well with the ways of the ancients. In fact these same principals work with othermodern steels as well. There is not much commonly found info beyond how to achieve max Rockwell hardness, but its often alluded to in the spec sheets. However, I have never found any data on varying temper temps to achieve a different hardness/toughness for specific situations. I'm pretty sure that's because in this day and age of designer steels it's easier to find a specific steel for a specific job.
  21. anvil

    making a flatter

    A few things about this design to be aware of. First, I'm not an advocate of guillotine tools. This is my preference, not a condemnation. As for jlp's design, I'd make the shaft longer so you could free it with a tap from the bottom. I'm not in favor of wedges in my hardy hole. Its much argued concerning shoulderless hardy tools in general. For me, I use the edges of my hardy hole for many things and wedges tend in a short amount of time to roll and deform these edges. Other than that, the wedge works. The face of the flatter must be parallel with your work. And the face of the tool must be slightly rounded or the slight amount of displaced material will leave unwanted mark's on your work because as soon as you displace material, your surfaces are no longer parallel.The wedge and lack of a shoulder work to prevent this, unless your work is tapered, then it's a no go as you move down the taper. Think a 4 sided tapered spear point type finial. And finally, and my primary reason for not being a fan of guillotine tools in general. Thats the rebound blow made by the tool after you strike and raise your hammer. It tends to leave unwanted mark's on my work. A spring top/bottom design works most of the time to solve these problems. Of course, the ultimate spring type tool is a treadle hammer. Lol, this solves all problems I've pointed out. As a final note I use very few top and bottom combo tools. Those I use either fit my treadle hammer, or are spring operated. I've come up with a few creative ways of secure my iron to my anvil, leaving me two hands for two tools.
  22. Dont take things sight unseen. Once I was looking for some cat track. I'd learned the pins made good hammers. I asked a heavy equipment friend to keep me in mind. I was sitting in the coffee shop and he called me. Said he had some track but I had to take the whole load. Alas, I said yes.
  23. I'm sure it was something I did. Perhaps I was distracted by something else. It won't be the first time. I just me toned it just in case.
  24. Interesting, my post is missing. No matter my questions were answered. Excellent work! Forge welded rings and a cone mandrel to final shape to dimension is pretty quick. Especially after doing that many rings. Particularly in a one man shop.
  25. anvil

    stone

    excellent work!