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About Heelerau

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Gidgegannup Western Australia
  • Interests
    Black Powder firearms, Team Roping, Antique collecting, Vintage cars and farm machinery, blacksmithing, reading, a good pipe and a good red.

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  1. Joel I commented on your Utube regarding this amazing shop you have built. A rare skill and a huge amount of drive and vision. I see you are a relatively young bloke, and hope you have the chance to pass on your knowledge to some young apprentices. As I mentioned on the tube, a late neighbour, Washington Parker built his own workshop in the early 1950s and he installed a line shaft, just a single one, driven by a lister petrol engine, driving a lathe, mill, drill, grinder and a reciprocating cut off saw. He like yourself was a ver multi skilled bloke and a ver good farmer. This little shop was just for his own farm maintenance. If ever I get over to the US again, I would like to visit with you. Kind regards Gordon
  2. You are right, it is an hour worth repeating and repeating from time to time. A real lesson on what man can do with a few simple tools and the knowledge of how to use them. Thanks for posting the link
  3. I just make up black powder cartridges for my old damascus barreled 12 bore britch loader. The bloke who had it originally used modern smokeless in it and it held fine. As it is only proofed for black, that is all I use in it now. Black powder as stated has a softer pressure curve than smokeless. There are some good vidieos on utube of gun makers a the williamsburg gun shop forging barrels from old buggy tyres. Quite fascinating as these two blokes made every last screw and part for this rifle by hand using period equipment. The barrel forging process was quite fascinating.
  4. Shoe for heavy traction, maybe ice and snow.
  5. Small world, this one does not have a false breech either, ver fast left hand twist, I use about 50 grains of FFg. Does hold nicely. You can see how the long rifles were fathered by these early European guns.
  6. I am curious why it has a two piece stock, I assume upon reflection that it does not have a false breech? I have a mates .54 jaeger which I have got shooting, it is a cap lock conversion and the bore is really good. You did a nice job of sorting out the new for end.
  7. Gentlemen I have been working up a mates little Baker Fusil, I actually suspect it is an English sporting rifle with a Baker Rifled barrel. It has a ver slow twist 1 in 110 .62. The bore is somewhat pitted so when I shot it the other day I used a greased hard felt wad over 2 1/2 drams of FFg goes, .61 ball and a heavy greased denim patch. 50 yards off had after the first 5 shots it settled down and put the last 6 nicely in the black. I did put over 30 rounds through and the greased felt wad did a great job of keeping the fouling in order and easy loading. But !! the ball and patch feels somewhat rough going down so I thought a trip to the smithy and a lead lapping would be the go. I used linotype which I melted over a kero primus, I keep lead away from my forge ! wrapped a cloth around a .303 cleaning rod at the join where the brass jag goes. I pre heated the muzzle on the lip of the pot , set the barrel vertical in the post vice ( lead slippers over the jaws) and poured the lap. I drove it half way out carefully and cut it a bit shorter then rubbed a little coarse valve grind paste on . I had to tap the lap up and down the barrel with a long rod and hammer a few times to and a little WD 40 to get the lap to the point where I could push it back and forth with the cleaning rod . I did not get rid of all the pitting but got rid of a rough constriction about half way down the bore. Before I replaced the breech plug I passed a patched ball down the bore and it feels nice and smooth inspite of the remaining pits. I will still use a greased felt over powder wad as the pits will still pick up to much fouling if I don't. I will see with interest next Sunday how the rifle goes at 50yds bench rested.
  8. I would be happy with such failures !! Lovely patterns and knives .
  9. A fascinating look at old time manufacture. What a pity it could not survive the modern economy, now days I bet there would be a market for these axes.
  10. You are dead right about that piece of gear, we have a 110 year old timber house and I helped the tradesmen put up mini orb ( coated fine corrugated iron) up for a new ceiling and what a pig of a job that was by hand, and we have 13' ceilings.
  11. I have ratted a couple more parts off my purchase, so has been well worth the cost, the pivot for the main pinion. Just swapped over the top threaded cylinder which the shoulder that takes all the upward thrust was all but gone, and also a grub screw to hold the top hand wheel on which has now been refitted and now sits on the top of the frame with out the large gap as seen in the above.
  12. Thomas, borrowed my nieghbours pulley puller a little heat from a propane torch, and lo removed the hand wheel. Have now swapped out the threaded cylinder it was mounted on and have replaced it with one from a wrecked buffalo drill, and have remounted it with new grub screws. The shoulder underneath the old one was nearly gone, so this one has a good sized shoulder to take the upward thrust. Thanks for the suggestion.
  13. I recently found an auto feed that was missing from my Buffalo mod 615 , I use it for drilling holes in hoof picks. Good excersize !
  14. How did you get the handwheel off the threaded piece, it seems to be an interferance fit, there is a grub screw which I have taken out. My handwheel has partially slid up the threaded collar, it was like that when I aquired it. The piece below with the u shaped pin, I just used a pair of vice grips and tapped it out. be aware there is a retaining groove in the mainshaft where this pin should go when replaced. I have tried some heat on the wheel but maybe not enough.