Dasher

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About Dasher

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Perth Western Australia
  • Interests
    General diy stuff, sports, m/ cycles, not much riding nowadays, but working on friends and family bikes. I make and play [badly] cigar box guitars

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  1. arkie, I suspect you are right, most probably drill tube, about 3" o.d., about 4mm wall thickness, probably thicker before wear, as the tube got very thin towards the end where most erosion had happened, so probably started as 1/4" or 6.5 mm thick, for that thickness it was a bit tough to cut, and I initially tried to flatten it with oxy/ acet, and that was tough going trying to break it's back, but not so bad in the forge where I could get a better spread of heat.
  2. Thanks Irondragon, that is helpfull, but it doesn't quite identify my stuff, those charts seem to be for actual rod, whereas my stuff is actually drill pipe, which is called drill rod here, and the indentifiers don't apply, but it has narrowed down my search a bit.
  3. To be honest IF&C I really don't know.
  4. Hi all, hoping for a bit of help. I've been trying to anneal a piece of drill rod, already cut and flattened, so it had been heated once already by me, I then heated it to critical, and let it sit in the forge , closed up to cool. After this it was still quite hard to file etc, so after reading Steve Sells article on the subject, I reheated it to critical, let it air cool, then reheated it to sub critical and let it cool in vermiculite. After this, a file just skated across, as if fully hardened, any advice would be appreciated. Note: temperatures were not precise, I just used magnetic/ non magnetic to achieve critical, and sub critical was an estimate based on colour, but was approaching critical.
  5. It does look a lot like a "skutch" hammer for masonary work, but I reckon it is a bit light, perhaps for carving stone, statues etc maybe, a good quality skutch would be more than useful on steel except for the length of the outboard on both sides.
  6. Sorry to see this Steve, I have no valuable advice to give whatsoever, but just want to say I agree with your take, doubt there is anything accidental/ coincidental in all of this, to me, it is simply theft, taken 1 step further, as not only is your rep being used, it is also, potentially being destroyed, having said that, the guy , just might be an excellent craftsman, but indicators suggest that is unlikely
  7. Growing up in Melbourne, I used to swim in the Yarra year round, mainly in the Fairfield area, in winter , with flooding it was not unusual to share the water with 2 or 3, woken, angry tigers, needless to say, we used to unshare the water pretty quickly.
  8. got any 8x10 full colour glossy photographs of that bench?
  9. Thanks Rockstar, I had read that before somewhere, and it was 1 of the reasons I wanted to keep it smaller, like all of us, I'm trying to work with what I have on hand, and unlikely to be needed for any projects, to keep the top die weight down I'm going to reduce the vertical opening to just enough to remove the bottom dies without much drama, it should still give me near a 40 plus mm opening, and I see no need for any larger stock in my near future, but, who knows
  10. good advice, thanks guys, I've been overthinking the guillotine, trying to re invent the wheel, I'm going for simple and easy now, dies will be a bit clunky, but I've got a fair bit of 50x 25mm bar, I'm going with that, should be simple to jig guides for it.
  11. That sounds pretty simple, thanks pnut.
  12. the damage is relatively minor, just if I try to hold anything for long periods, and my concentration fades, my grip can weaken, not normally much of an issue, if I'm carrying something fragile, I just adjust my angle of lift to support it more, hot stuff, with the added cantilever of tongs can be a small problem though, if something is heavier, I have an old , large pair of vice grips that Noah used building the ark, they are near bullet proof and just shrug off punishment, they save me having to grip as well as lift. The nasty 1st set of tongs I made are not super ergonomic, which I will rectify in coming days
  13. Yes, got that, but almost always working solo, the main reason for the guillotine really, just trying to free 1 hand as much as I can, my left hand has a bit of nerve damage from an old work accident, and a lack of attention, or concentration can mean hot stuff falling to the floor or worse.
  14. I'm not sure if you are taking the Mickey out of me with that last line or not Thomas, but as I'm new to this I'm not quite set up for that at this stage, even the guillotine, when done, will only be used for practise at this stage as I learn new methods of shaping steel.
  15. Thanks guys, I'm thinking that at this stage , my tooling can be mostly mild steel, with harder dies as needed, as I have no bandsaw, or cold saw, most of my cutting is done , by either friction saw, which works pretty hard on thicker and harder stock, grinder, or gas, which, to me at least suggests I keep the tooling down around 12mm thick, my friction cut off saw handles that easy enough, but it doesn't like the 25mm dozer cutting edge I have. I'll re think it and see what I come up with