Roy56 Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 (edited) I have a M1 carbine that wasn't in a stock a customer brought in. It isn't rusted just frozen up where it has sit for so long. I have all the Blacksmith solutions I can think of in the shop but, still I cannot get the trigger and hammer to move. Finally got the slide and magazine buttons to move. Safety and trigger till won't budge. Lane Custom Hydrographics Edited September 29, 2019 by Roy56 Name change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Shimanek Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Break Free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy56 Posted September 29, 2019 Author Share Posted September 29, 2019 I get some of the oddest requests for things to do. It is going to cost more for me to repair, restore and restock the rifle than one would cost at a pawn shop 7 hours ago, Steve Shimanek said: Break Free Thank you same guy brought me a FN49. No stock, parts missing with a schematic for a Enfield No 1 MK 3. Tool 3 days to convince him what he really had. But, as long as he wants to pay me, I'll keep looking for parts and putting them together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dax Hewitt Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Like most of the previous posters I use WD40 or GT85. Unfortunately the rules behind taking substances on site these days and needing full COSH assessments for everything don't allow home mixed concoctions. Way back when though on compressors with 2 foot diameter I would put a couple of inches of paraffin and diesel on the top of the cylinder and light it with a rag, it heated the cylinder and the oil mix got very hot and thin and worked it way right through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerrogerD Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 The rusted parts took a while to get that way. Do not get in a hurry to free them up and working. The parts will eventually break loose by using one or more of the above methods. Give which ever method you choose time to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave51B Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 electrolysis....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 I find that a 50/50 mix of acetone & Dexron automatic fluid works very well on frozen rusted parts. It is on a par with Kroil which also works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bud in PA Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 The muzzleloading forum that I belong to recommends EVAPORUST. I have not tried it as no one around here carries it. I Use PB Blaster and Naval Jelly. These guys are using it on antique flintlocks, and It supposedly doesn't leave a grey film like Naval Jelly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 I use Evaporust on items like barrel's & reciever's, flat surfaces of all muzzleloader's & MILSERP arms I'm restoring. However to loosen frozen parts like bolts, trigger assembly's, locks etc. the mix of acetone & trans fluid or Kroil works better for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 Have you tried Walmart? The one near me carries EVAP-O-RUST and naval jelly. I know different stores, different stock. I like ATF/acetone Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 22, 2019 Share Posted October 22, 2019 P/B Blaster use it all the time in welding shop on farm eqt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yesteryearforge Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 KROIL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dasher Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 Not rust per se, but related, I,ve just today started to re new my old motorcycle, hasn,t run since the late 80,s, [ family , work, yada yada], apon pullng the carburettors, I discovered that the slides had seized in the throttle bodies, as they were only a 100 or so hrs used since the bodies were last sleeved, I,d like to save them. They are currently soaking in a wd 40 mix, but I was wondering if someone might have had this issue before. As the bodies are made of pot metal, any introduction of heat must be very judicious, any and all advice appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted October 28, 2019 Share Posted October 28, 2019 Without seeing it in person I would say Kroil for rust. Let it soak in some for a week and check it. Try rapping on the pins holding them to help loosen them up. If it is really bad electrolysis may be in order. Do you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner? I saw an article in an old Shooting Times magazine about using one to free up a dug up Colt single action army that was just a wad of rust. Luckily Carbine parts are available, so as a last resort just swap it out. Dasher, try sticking them in an oven and run it up to around 120C-150C, and checking them as it warms up. Hopefully they are just varnished up, and not corroded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 I had slides stuck like that. Sprayed them with starting fluid (ether) The cold freed them up so I could take them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dasher Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 Thanks big gun, I,m going to hold off putting them in the oven for now while I try a few other things, Irondragon's suggestion sounds logical, so that is next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 On 10/28/2019 at 8:07 AM, Dasher said: I discovered that the slides had seized in the throttle bodies Have you tried soaking in a solvent mixed with a penetrating oil? ATF and acetone comes to mind and try moving them every day or so. BGD's suggestion about the ultrasonic cleaner is a good idea. I'd put the ATF acetone mix in it and let it run for a few hours at least. The only problem might be covering the parts completely because most of them are for jewelry so tend to be on the smaller side. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dasher Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 Update, I've freed 1, still 1 to go, no hurry, it will come eventually I'm sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heelerau Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 50/50 acetone and auto trans oil, works a treat, just have to leave it for a week or two sealed up so the acetone does not evaporate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satori Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 Kroil and ballistol is my magic potion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 What Heelerau said. It's cheap and in my opinion beats all the commercial stuff hands down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 A while back someone here posted a proper lab test review of anti rust products. While near the top of the list Kroil and such pro anti-rust products were in the same company with 50/50 auto trans fluid and acetone. It was right at the top of the list, not #1 IIRC but close. The rating for effectiveness vs. cost was laughable the next closest to the home brew was something like 15x. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4575wcf Posted December 26, 2021 Share Posted December 26, 2021 The very first operation I did on my FWT LC Smith frame was to free up a hopelessly rusted and locked up rotary bolt and top snap. I wrote into the LC Smith forum and received the suggestion to use electrolysis. I knew absolutely nothing about the process, but I have a co/worker who is a collector and restorer of one-lung engines and such. I used electrolysis with information I found online, and advice from my antique engine guy with very good results. I wrote up and photographed the whole process in my LC Smith build on Shotgun Forums which, if I do say so myself, covers the subject pretty well. You can find it in Shotgun Forums, not Shotgun World, under the High End and Specialty Gun Forum. The post is very close to the first one of the series of #150 so far, perhaps third or similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted December 26, 2021 Share Posted December 26, 2021 Why not post it on IForgeIron? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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