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Show me your anvil stands


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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • 1 month later...

I have been meaning to build a stand for my Hay-Budden for a while now, finally got the time to get it done. It turned out pretty solid. The compound miters on the back legs were a pain, but I'm glad I took the time to do it.

It is made from 100% salvaged materials, except for the MIG wire of course. The big plate is 1-3/8" thick, from a scrapped storm drain cover. The retainers are sections of 6" Schedule 80 pipe. Also appearing is 1"x1"x1/8" angle iron, 1.5"x1.5"x1/4" square tube, 1/4" plate, 1/2" plate, various hardware, and some stainless steel perforated sheet I had laying around.

The anvil top ended up at a height of 32 1/4", which is about a half-inch higher than the "knuckle rule" on me if I'm wearing my work boots. In one of the below pictures, I put 1" shims under the legs; I like a slightly higher anvil for some work.

I still need to bed the anvil with silicon and securely fasten it to the stand. I may add some loops for hammers and tongs, and perhaps some sort of caster system for portability. I may also cut the retainers off and move the anvil toward the back legs another inch for better weight distribution on the legs...but we'll see.

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I have to thank you all for making this information available.  It’s been very helpful as I get started building my anvil stand.  The plan, as it stands right now, is to use 4” x 6” posts to make a 12” x 18” “stump” that will be about 26 inches tall.  I’ll post up a picture after I’ve got it built.

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  • 1 month later...

Greetings!

 

Here’s my entry…. Anvil is a 260 pound Hay Budden I purchased 40+ years ago. I just finished fabricating the base, which is made from 30 year old recycled Doug Fir 4x8 patio lumber (hard as a rock and was painted white on all 4 sides…. (wish I would have found this forum before today). Lever facilitates movement from location to location by raising anvil & base 1/2” off floor.

here’s some pictures

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Welcome aboard from 7500' in SE Wyoming.  Glad to have you.

Nice stand.  I like the casters and leaver to move it around.

You'll find the IFI forum a very cool place.  Folks range in age from early teens to 80s.  Education from drop outs to advanced degrees.  Blacksmithing experience from green as grass to masters.  Just avoid politics, religion, sex and keep your language suitable for little girls and you'll do well.  Oh, and don't post direct links to commercial sites.  You can say "Look at ABC, Inc.'s website" but not a dierect link to ABC, Inc.. Links to non profit websites or You Tube videos are OK.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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nice design. bit bulky maybe.

I have a stupid problem at this moment. My anvil came with a wooden stump. It is to high however, something of 4 cm needs to come of. Sounds easy but the stump has a diameter of around 80cm and I have no idea how to cut it and keep it parallel with the bottom part. 

Don't have a saw long enough to cut thru it and don't have access to a chainsaw (bit scared of the things to be honest). all my other tools are to short even if i cut all around the stump. And i think i don't have the stamina or patient to cut it with a handsaw.

somebody got an idea or tip? i', not in a hurry at this moment. I have to prepare my garden so they can landscape it (i do the tearing down of the current garden so goodbye shed, concrete plate underneed, concrete footpath and plants and other stuff)

 

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The platform Glenn suggested worked great for me in class (granted mine was closer to 10cm too high, lol).

But if you're like my friend and have already been using the platform for some time and are just growing tired of the space taken by the platform (he's in a 8x8 shed), I would try a flap disc for slower work or a wood-carving or wood-shaping disc for faster work just to get it down close to what you want - then a wood planer to get the remainder down and get it level.

Build a U-shaped frame of some sort that is the correct height and slip it over the stump every once in awhile so you don't end up cutting it too short. Personally, I would make my frame about 1cm more than the height I wanted and then remove the rest by hand. Going by a quick internet search, most wood planers remove about 3mm wood per pass.

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5 hours ago, gewoon ik said:

nice design. bit bulky maybe!

I agree, it is a bit bulky looking! This is the first time trying this and I was not even sure my design would work.
The entire project cost less than $15 as it was assembled from materials I already had The 4x8 Doug Fir lumber was donated by a friend (it’s his 35 year old patio frame he replaced, thanks Ben) and the metal is welded up remnants from other projects.

9 hours ago, BayardStrachan said:

wondering how you find it.  

The metal frame does not appear to be of any hindrance to working on the anvil, I can still get plenty close.
 

Having just said that and now knowing how wonderfully this functions, I would change the design ever so slightly to move the wheels in closer on the sides (I deliberately and cautiously erred on the side of stability and functionality when designing this mechanisms). 

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When you visited IForgeIron, you have access to over 60,000 members in over 150 countries of the world, and their combined data base of information.

The issue is how to solve the problem.  If you can not lower the anvil face, then raise blacksmith.  The end result is the same.  Take the information to the forge, test out the suggestions, then come back to the site, tell us how it worked. If you need other options, just ask.

As blacksmiths, we tend to over think, over build , and over complicate things.  If that does not work, we break it so we can build it back, better than before, with modifications or improvements.  It is our nature.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finally found some free time to build my temporary-ish anvil stand — work and kids have kept me busy the past few months.  I used kiln-dried Douglas fir 4x4 posts, 7/16-inch all thread going the long way and 1/2-inch carriage bolts the short way.  The middle section, where the anvil will rest, is approximately 24-inches tall.  I need to clean it up a little bit, but I think it will work while I figure out the details of my backyard “shop”.

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  • 3 weeks later...

nice bunch of stands.

On 2/3/2023 at 3:29 AM, gewoon ik said:

somebody got an idea or tip?

My preferred way to mount my anvil to the stand is to inlay the anvil into my stump. You could do the same. All you need is a wood chisel, a hammer and some fine sand. Trace your anvil base onto the stump and chisel it in. I chisel mine about an inch or so deeper than needed, then put the fine sand in the void. The sand does a few things. It is far easier to level your anvil in the sand than to make a level saw/chainsaw cut or chisel the bottom level, and the sand deadens the ring of the anvil. Make it a close fit and you won't need any external fasteners to hold your anvil firmly in place. 

Rich_c,    nice stand. You can make a bracket that fits over your all thread that can hold a hot rasp or a favorite hardy tool. 

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Thanks Jennifer!

the larger stand is 3x3 square tubing 1/4 wall with 1/2” plate top and pads, it’s gonna be used on concrete so I’m not worried to much about it,

the smaller stand is for the little 60 pound Trenton, im building it to be super light for a portable kit im putting together, I haven’t tried it out yet on soft ground but you might be right, I may need to put bigger pads on it 

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