Machine shop Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 Just finished my new anvil stand for my 300# double horn anvil. It’s made from a block of oak with a recess routed in the top, a layer of nitrile rubber between the anvil and stump. The anvil is held down with 5” coach screws and clamps. my 100# London pattern on it’s oak log is in the background My MIL made me a cover for it to protect it when outside and to reduce the groin to horn contact pain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 Interesting seeing the stump on the side grain vs end grain.. Traditionally they were put on the end grain. Looks great from here for sure. Nice job setting it all up.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machine shop Posted January 3, 2022 Share Posted January 3, 2022 When my friend cut me the log he cut it a bit short (see thread) and when I got it home I decided that it was also a bit wide when sitting end grain upwards (I wanted to minimise cutting with my little 14” saw!). I think it will be solid enough even if it cracks a bit when it fully seasons! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Kelly Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 Here's my stand, it's basically a really sturdy frame with 4" x 4" legs then clad with tongue and groove 1" thick reclaim pine which was reversed to hide the groove. Then filled with two bags of sharp sand to add stability, it weighs a lot more than my anvil and is really stable. It's anchored into the frame with an angle iron plate that is a really tight fit to the anvil and then held down with two four inch bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 Machine Shop, what brand of milling machine is that? Looks like it takes a #40 taper shank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machine shop Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 Hi big gun doctor. It is a Victoria omnimil 01. They were later sold by Elliott. It has a 30int vertical spindle and a 40int horizontal, they are driven independently. It’s a lot more ridgid than a series 1 Bridgeport as it is based around a horizontal mill, but the turret head makes it really flexible ( the opposite of rigid???!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hheneg Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 Beautiful stand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 We had a SAJO combination mill in our small shop that took #40 tapers in both spindles. Later I picked up a Bridgeport copy for home. I need to bring my machine shop equipment from CA down to my place here in NV. I have a #2 Van Norman horizontal that takes #50, two Monarch lathes, Clausing hydraulic surface grinder, the Millport mentioned above, and a 16" G&E shaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machine shop Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Biggundoctor. Nice collection. It’s so handy to have machining and grinding capability at your disposal, even if you are doing blacksmithing or even car maintenance. So easy to put together a quick tool when needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 On 1/3/2022 at 5:33 AM, Machine shop said: My MIL made me a cover for it to protect it when outside and to reduce the groin to horn contact pain! Seems counterintuitive, as the camouflage would make it harder to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machine shop Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Btw I posted some pics of my shop in the ‘show me your shop’ section if you want to see some of the other old iron I have crammed in the workshop Just now, JHCC said: Seems counterintuitive, as the camouflage would make it harder to see. Lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NH Hunter Posted April 6, 2022 Share Posted April 6, 2022 Good evening. My anvil and tongs arrived today. Monday I built the stand based on my observations of this thread and not knowing exactly what I want yet. It's 12" square of hemlock with 10 cabin screws holding it all together. I hollowed out the bottom about a about 1/2" except an inch around the edges. I put caulking under the anvil and then used 1/4" bar stock to secure it down with lag bolts. I had the anvil measurements and calculated the height based on my wrist, I figure I can adjust as needed, if needed. It will get me started as soon as i get my forge set up. Thanks for all the information on this site, it is very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott NC Posted April 15, 2022 Share Posted April 15, 2022 How is it working for you? I always have used a chunk of stump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NH Hunter Posted April 15, 2022 Share Posted April 15, 2022 I haven't had the chance to use it yet. With family and work stuff, I'm behind on my forge. I've rigidized and put my first coat of cement on, but its still tacky. Not too warm here lately which isn't helping. I currently have my heat gun blowing some warm air in it to help speed it along so I can get the second coat on it. Was hoping to get my first forge and anvil time in this weekend, but doubtful now. I did score a good size break rotor, 4" deep by 9" around, from my mechanic this week. will try to get that set up this weekend. Also called an Agway 25 miles away and they have blacksmith coal, so I may go up and get a couple bags. I'll update when I've been able to get some work going. Have a great Easter weekend everyone. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 Happy Easter Mike! That sure is a beautiful anvil and a pretty darned nice stand under it. I'd like it a little wider myself, I can pull hard enough to scoot my anvil when bending on it. When you say you coated your forge liner with "cement" surely you don't mean Portland cement or the first time you get it hot HOT splinters of the liner will come popping out the doorways like Satan's popcorn! If you're using a proper refractory drying it out is the wrong thing to do almost all the types we need in a propane forge are "Water SETTING," This means it absorbs moisture to set and cure. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frf Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 We at Fraser River Forge use hardwood tree rounds, preferably something dense with a good rebound like maple or oak. We find white oak to be the best option amoung the species that grow in Vancouver. -J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NH Hunter Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 On 4/15/2022 at 8:57 PM, Frosty said: That sure is a beautiful anvil and a pretty darned nice stand under it. I'd like it a little wider myself, I can pull hard enough to scoot my anvil when bending on it. Thanks Frosty. I'm pleased with how it came out and how solid it is. When you say wider, do you mean under the horns or the sides? Not knowing exactly how I'll work, I wanted it as minimalistic as possible while being solid. I also wear a leg/foot brace due to an injury so I don't want things too cumbersome when I'm working. I also see some people post that they don't want their stands or tools under their horns so I avoided that in this iteration. I also noted that my original post says I used 10 cabin screws, that should have been 10" cabin screws and a bunch of them. With regard to the cement, yes I mean refractory stuff. I was following the instructions from the forge maker and it was only to get the last bit of moisture out prior to the second coat. I did get the second coat on later last night and will see how everything sets later today. I have to say, I'm really enjoying the tinkering part of just getting set up. Thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 18, 2022 Share Posted April 18, 2022 I like a wider base under my anvils so they are less likely to tip over under a lateral load like bending or scrolling heavy stock. I've been using steel tripod stands under my anvils for a few years now, they're really solid and damp the damagingly loud ring from my Soderfors. The Trenton is loud too but nothing is like the Soderfors on a wood block, it would make your ears ring through muffs and plugs after a couple hours. WHEW, a proper refractory! Follow the instructions for sure. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knifeclan Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubby Posted August 13, 2022 Share Posted August 13, 2022 Anvil stand I made for my 55 lbs. Trenton anvil. Sides are construction grade 2x12's, then filled with sand 12" deep. Sand is sitting on a bottom of 4.5" wood boards that have been laminated with perpendicular grain. Hammer and hardy storage are set on pins and compressed inwards with the cam strap. The storage shelves go beyond the face on the backside of stand for a place for me to store tongs. I may replace strap with a steel cable at some point, but the strap was here and easy, cheap to replace. The workbench casters work well in the one direction but very tippy moving stand the other way; Stand is very sturdy when sitting on its own legs. The anvil makes a dull thud now, no ringing at all. Also the anvil does not move when in use, though it has not yet been used extensively for bends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goods Posted August 14, 2022 Share Posted August 14, 2022 Chubby, I like the use of the cam down casters. Where did you find those? (No links, just key search terms will work. I don’t want to make you violate usage terms…) Keep it Fun, David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QUIKSVT Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 80# Colombian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWISTEDWILLOW Posted September 2, 2022 Share Posted September 2, 2022 Looks nice what kinda log did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuillaumeMarchand Posted September 3, 2022 Share Posted September 3, 2022 Hi guys, Here is the tripod I made for my 60kg anvil. Nothing fancy. Only a hole under the round hole of the anvil to allow me to insert some long bar. To reduce the noise I tried to add under the feet a sheet of rubber (4mm) covered by a thin aluminium plate to protect it from hot parts. The anvil is also fixed to the tripod with two tapered square irons. I think the pictures are clear enough. The noise reduction works pretty well. Much better than a magnet or a chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gewoon ik Posted September 3, 2022 Share Posted September 3, 2022 Nice clamping system. Clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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