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Found 11 results

  1. A set of skinners I forged for a father and two sons. The scales are antler from a deer they hunted with their grandfather before his passing, and the inscription is his initials plus harvest year. Forged 80CrV2 blades with hamon, bronze fittings and brass pins. Any time I can make something special, that has a lot of meaning to a customer and their family, I jump right on it - by far the most rewarding commissions. Sheaths by bladesmith Justin Allen Kirck.
  2. Pair of ulu’ish knives diffrentialy tempered 1095 brass and cocobolo left them in the etch a little too long but they ended up really pretty anyway du
  3. So i made myself a chefs knife out of o-6 tool steel being lazy i did not want to drag out the forge just to heat treat one knife so i grabbed my torch and went with a simple diffrential heattreat not expecting anything other than function.... this is what i got. Once i realized i had a hamon... my first all be it boring as no clay was involved i had to go all out on the fittings. I went with solid copper scales soldered to the tang then hammered and polished the blade was etched in my vinigar picle bath i use for removing scale 10 min then rubbed with silk then 10 min soak anout 6 cycles Tell me what ya think du
  4. *I realize I accidently posted in the blacksmithing forum instead of the bladesmithing forum...however I am finding it difficult to put this in the appropriate area, my apologies!* So I'm working on my second knife project (posted my first one earlier), and I had some questions with regards to the heat treat (which I am planning to do tomorrow). The piece itself is a dagger I am working on out of 1095 steel. I have the profile and grinding done for it, and am getting ready to heat treat, but a bit nervous about the quench. I am planning on using clay along on the spine of the dagger on both sides, but wasn't certain if there was a certain time to apply the clay, or if you just put it on before you begin heating the blade for the quench? I was thinking this would help keep the spine from getting overly hard and brittle, which would give the dagger more strength and flexibility of movement when thrusting into hard objects (not that this is the intention, just trying to learn and practice things for now.) I also was thinking this might help prevent cracks/breaking of my blade for the quench. The reason for this is because I am going to attempt to quench the blade in water, not oil... I am going to use some hot railroad spikes to heat the water up, which I am hoping will decrease the chance of any serious damage to the blade. My question there is, when I got to quench the dagger, do I plunge it in tip first with the edges perpendicular to the ground, or the flat of the blade? Are there any hints, tricks, or tips that could help me from ruining this piece? (I mean if I did, I would treat it as a lesson learned...but I'd like to avoid a catastrophic damage if possible). Also, any advice on fixes if the blade develops a warp or a crack during the quench? Thank you all for reading this....hope I made sense above haha.
  5. Just finished up this puppy. I had a lot of fun forging this blade; W2 high carbon steel blade with integral guard. Handle is my own cast Impregg handle material (sanitized crushed egg shell, mica powder, and G-Flex epoxy) and ebony. The Impregg material is translucent in the thinner areas around the guard. The hamon came out almost exactly as intended - a little closer to the edge in spots but still very serviceable. Comments and critique encouraged! Theo
  6. I had been working all day yesterday on some art pieces for an upcoming show and toward the end of the day I just had to make a blade. It starts as a 1" x 3/8" bar of W-1. (shown on top in the photo) This is where I got to after about 65 minutes of forging. I still have to clean up the plunge cut area and shape the tang for a stag handle.
  7. Howdy, Some of y'all may know I tend not to repeat designs, however I had the extra handle left over from my previous, nearly identical, tanto from a couple months ago, and I couldn't help myself. It's a century-old file I reforged and heat treated with APG-36 clay and Parks 50. 12.25" OAL, 4" handle. Sheath is goat leather I got from the only tannery in Cyprus while on vacation there. Comments and critique encouraged, Theo
  8. Recently I wrapped up a similar W2 blade '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> that the customer decided halfway through he didn't like the triangulated guard and pommel. SO the old fittings went on a smaller blade, and I reprinted a smoother guard n pommel (I was dead-set on 3D printing the fittings on this girl). Ebony scales and brass pins. 14.625" OAL, 4.75" handle, 1/8" at guard with distal taper, 1.8125" at widest The stepping on the printed components is quite visible on the curved surfaces. I flubbed up somethin good on the finish on two pins... at least they are both on one side so there's a pretty side haha The guard and pommel were printed with cavities to reduce weight. The color is an interesting mixture of the stainless steel powder and the bronze that is cast around it. Conveniently similar to brass. Went with a smooth gradient of hamon clay, which was an error in retrospect because the blade is so wide the grain transition/boundary was spread out resulting in a BORING hamon... so I took the sanding a step back for a satin finish with hint of hamon ("satin finish with hint of hamon" sounds like a food). Comments/critique encouraged :) Theo
  9. Hamon learning curve.....6" blade and 5" handle
  10. Hey y'all! I finished a knife that I've been working on for a while. Here's the break down: It's a blend of Japanese and Nordic style, which kind of just happened as it progressed. I had certain features I liked, and I continued to add more. The blade is a three-layer blade, with mild steel for the cheeks and a layer of tool steel in between for the cutting edge. I took the idea from the book "Swedish Blacksmithing", in which the smith makes a "U" shape bend in some smaller mild steel flat bar stock, drops the piece of carbon steel in the "U", and welds it, cutting the excess mild steel off. I did that, ground it, shaped it, and started polishing. When the weld line came out, I was pretty stoked. I know some people get their hamon by clay tempering... but I was pleased to get one this way by way of weld lines. Tempered to a straw color over the forge, this baby is pretty dang sharp. During polishing, I shoved it through my thumb nail... twice. No worries, lesson learned. The handle is poplar, mainly because that's all I had access to besides red oak, and I wanted to mix it up. It has 6 coats of boiled linseed oil and a final coating of Tru Oil Gunstock finish. I left my wood carving chisel marks in it because I felt it gave it a cool texture and even feels nice in the hand. The spacer, which I kind of took a concept from the Japanese seppa, is from a copper pipe between 1/8 and 3/16in thick. I cut it with a hack saw and then filed it down to shape, drilled the holes and filed to fit the tang. I did a little (or tried to) fancy filing on the spacer... but I'm not too happy with it. Didn't have small enough files. Oh well. Hope you all enjoy. After reflecting on the project, I do wish I would have polished the blade a bit more and to get out some of the sloppy, deep weld lines. Although, the blade is solid. This is technically my first lamination or forge weld on a knife blade. I wanted a rough, old look to the blade. I wanted it to look like it has a story behind it although I have not yet come up with that. I would have also used a bit more dense wood. But the poplar feels nice and it was easy to work. Cheers!
  11. Hey Guys, yesterday I forged my first pattern welded billet out of a three layered bar I made previously. Basically just to practice firewelding and the technique of welding Damascus (or pattern welded steel in that case). It is very small and the knife itself is rather just for the decorative pattern and not heat treated or so. I welded the billet out of two layers of mild steel in which I clampwelded a piece of car spring. The holding bar I fixed with a faggot-weld to the billet. I used no welding machines... I forged 364 layers. A video of me welding the last fold you can see here: Here are some pictures (I etched the blade with boiling vinegar): If you have any advice for me for future projects I´d be glad to hear it. If you have a question I´d be glad to answer it. For now - kind regards - Daniel
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