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About TheoRockNazz

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    Apprentice Curmudgeon

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  1. Wonderfully done! Looks great
  2. A fantastic first knife, very well done! You chose one of the more difficult projects in general too; turned out great.
  3. Muahahahaha! I don't want to give all my secrets away, but basically it is several components that precisely slot together, then cinch inwards around the tang, adjusting to the forged dimensions.
  4. Honestly... purely aesthetics, thought it looked cool, and matched the rest of the guard better that way
  5. Thank you guys! So the procedural guards are made up of four interlocking components that cinch around the tang, and can adapt to most sized forged tangs. There is a little leftover empty space inside the guard that I pour G-flex into from the underside, which flows around the interlocking tabs securing the components in their position. The accuracy of the 3D printing and casting process nowadays is so on point that I nip off the sprues, gently file the insides of the interlocking slots/tabs, and they come together with gentle tapping (sorta a friction fit). This way I get to leave the stepping from the printing process on the bronze, of which I love the look and texture. The "lines" of color are where the individual components interlock/overlap - I use resin dye with the G flex to come back after assembly and add those bit in. I like to call the finish on the blade Brut-de-forge... really just a softer way of saying primitive lol. I draw a lot of inspiration from Lin Rhea MS (literally just texted him pics of the guard), and he has given me some good feedback over the years... still waiting to hear what he thinks of this guard design though haha. His take on the all-metal blacksmiths knife really helped me find my style and what speaks to me - as it turns out, I like seeing that the blade was forged 90% to shape with the only cleanup being on the bevels.
  6. Survival knife forged from 80CrV2 with bronze procedural guard, synthetics from Masecraft Supply, and hybrid block from @justintheblacksmith This knife is for someone with large hands; 14" oal, 8.5" blade.This beaut is for sale as soon as the sheath is finished.
  7. A chopper I forged sporting my new procedural guard and pommel system. 80CrV2 blade with hamon, dyed and stabilized buckeye burl, and cast bronze fittings. Had a lot of fun figuring out the design for the fittings; with all the fun color options we get for handle materials these days I wanted to find a way to add some to the fittings too. 16.5" OAL, 10.5" blade. Let me know what yall think!
  8. Thank you all! lol, yeah the skulls took forever, easily four times as many failures as successes. The scales are indeed 3D printed cast bronze - the process allowed me to pocket them a little from the inside to reduce weight (somewhat)
  9. Commissioned lockback folder I just completed: Antiqued finish S35VN blade with blued 80CrV2 spring, bronze frame/thumbstud, and patternwelded side panels. The side panels have little skulls in the pattern, something that took a looooong time to get to work. Let me know what yall think!
  10. Hi everyone! So a couple months ago a student said something that really struck me and got the gears turning: "How can I relate and be encouraged as a young Asian woman when I look in the magazines/books you have and all I see is a bunch of old white dudes?" She was absolutely right. With my forge being in Brooklyn NYC I get a very wide range of students, and while I know the community is getting better about it I still want to make an effort for my library to show work from around the world by people of all walks of life. I've got my subscription to Blade, Knife, and ABS... I was planning on adding Messer and EuroMag (the latter appears to only be online though), but then that's the extent of my international magazine knowledge. Ideally, I would love to get one from Japan and/or Philippines, plus I have heard there is a quarterly one out of Israel. Any help would be appreciated, Theo
  11. Thank you all! Some really interesting solutions there
  12. Hi gang! I am happy to say I am moving into a newer and better shop soon, but for the first time will have to try and find a way to bring the noise and vibrations down. A little information on the shop and me: I run a small teaching forge in Brooklyn that focuses entirely on knives and swords. Because of size constraints and for safety we have no more than four students at a time, each usually working on their own unique projects. For noise making we have two 2x72 grinders, a roller, an AnYang press, three anvils, two forges, and a partridge in a pear tree. No powerhammers in our future. So the new place is located inside Industry City, and they had some minor concerns about sound and vibration for the floors above us (we are on the ground floor, which is solid concrete with no basement). I know about the rubber pads under anvils, but any other recommendations? Theo