Jump to content
I Forge Iron

cliffrat

Members
  • Content Count

    171
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About cliffrat

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.dosgatosdesignsllc.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    : New River Arizona
  • Interests
    Smithing, rock climbing, bow hunting,almost anything if we can go to the mountains.....

Recent Profile Visitors

4,959 profile views
  1. I'm with Basher on this one. I've been doing a bit of reading and research into this knife form and found that it is anything except a simple design. The broken back is also something of a later development as very early Seax were more like a dropped point than a clipped point. Having tried my hand at making one, it is no simple task. As for the bending of swords in graves, I remember reading something (possibly in Beyond the Northlands) about the reverence and respect the Viking culture had for their swords. There were more than a few inscriptions that read something like "rather than h
  2. Have you burned up your compressor yet? Those small compressor tanks make a great quench tub. Cut the top off and put a handle on it. The wheels allow for easy relocation when needed.
  3. Flemish pretty well nailed that. The first is a very soft or mild twist, then there is what looks like a re-squared bar flattened out, followed by a plain random pattern, a ladder pattern, and bird's eye (or pool & eye, or rain drop, etc.) with the holes drilled in straight rows. Where did you get them?
  4. What I think you are asking is this: You have a blade with a standard hidden tang, that is, it is narrower from top to bottom (spine to belly) than the blade. You were going to push this into a block of wood and conceal the tang, but the hole you made is bigger than the tang, so there is too much room around the tang for a tight fit. So, you tried to glue a piece of brass onto the tang (like where a guard would be) to cover the end of the hole. You used epoxy to hold the guard in place, and that failed during grinding because of heat build up. Is that correct? If so, what you should do is
  5. Everyone, and I mean everyone...has a ka-boom story. So come on Nick, let's have it. You have an audience. While you're at it, whatcha planning for the handle? Best looking RR spike knife I've ever seen.
  6. Or as Frank Zappa used to say.......Trendy Chemical Amusement Aids
  7. For hand sanding lubricant, I use either citrus/orange degreaser fluid or simple green. Same for finishing stones.
  8. Agitation of the acid makes it work a little faster and etch more evenly in the shortened time. The fish bubbler is just an inexpensive way to get the acid agitated. You could accomplish the same thing with a submersible vibration device. Anything that gets the acid moving around will work. A fish tank aerator only costs $6-$12 through Amazon. Cut off a 3/4" square scrap piece of nickel-silver and drill a 1/4 inch hole in it. Force the hose through the hole so it acts like a weight and brings the hose down below the blade in the acid tank. BTW, that's a nice little forge you've got there
  9. Thanks Steve. It's a W pattern, or as some guys call it, a double-U pattern. Started with a 20-something billet of 1095 & 15N20, but I can't remember how many times I did the cut & Stack. Memory ain't what it used to be.
  10. 800 is a very fine finish and it doesn't have to be that fine to etch well. I usually stop at 400 grit before etch. Like JPH, I use a longer etch time, my ferric is 1:3 (acid to water) and I agitate with a fish tank bubbler. For some reason, Ferric leaves the simple carbon steels a lot darker than the nitric or hydrochloric acids (muriatic is hydrochloric acid). Some guys like the high contrast, others not so much. Rubbing with steel wool will get into the deeper etched parts of the blade and leave you with less contrast. This can be returned by bluing the blade. Looking at the pics, JPH gets
  11. Nice ring TJ. Piece of advice, get a fish tank bubbler for your ferric.
  12. Thanks Das, I'm glad you got something out of it. Hopefully you got at least half of what I managed to learn so far, and this knife still has more to teach me. Destructive testing of your blades is an important part of being a knife maker. It is a difficult thing to do, because you spend some quality time making the blade, heat treating it, etc. and then you destroy it. I had made a smaller blade along side this one and I can probably salvage that and make a finished knife from it. It was going to be the test blade, but it seems like the roles have reversed. Maybe I'll record the testing with
  13. Just tuned in to your wip sorry to see it go that way after all that work. I am looking forward to Januarys class. 

  14. Thanks for the info on the polishing powders. I'll check them out. As for the Hamon, there was nothing I liked about it. I typically leave my blades a bit beefy at heat treat and thin them down to desired thickness. What I didn't anticipate is the shape of the Hamon in cross section through the blade. As I ground through it, it spread out and lost all definition. It also traveled further down the blade toward the edge than I wanted. Important lesson learned: rough grind close to finished dimensions when doing Hamons. There are other issues with that blade that I can't abide. Most folks wouldn'
  15. Please elaborate on the pumice and pre-polish powders. Like where you get them and what grades/grits, etc. Also, how you apply and polish with them. Mike Q uses a strip of denim backed by a stiff sanding board. Do you use something similar? I have also heard folks say they use everything from make-up removal pads to wet leather. I've made a couple of blades with a mirror polish and the idea of polishing just to practice is kinda unappealing.......just sayin'. Sorry guys, I was going to put an edge and rough handle on this one and do some cutting and testing to destruction. That way I'
×
×
  • Create New...