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Tanto & Kogatana Set prototype complete! This design has been in the work for some time - I've been fixated on knife sets for months. This tanto comes with it's own small utility knife called a Kogatana, typically found on katana. Blades are 80CrV2 with hamons. The sheath and scales are black linen micarta. Fittings are cast bronze. Blades are secured with magnets in the sheath. This tanto will be available as part of a limited production run I'm doing soon; people would have the choice of 80CrV2 or S35VN stainless, and any color linen micarta. Input and critique always appreciated. VID_26330815_134402_214.mp4

San mai of wrought iron shell with 15N20 and 1095 cutting edge. Handle window contains LEGO bricks tumbled at random angles before being sanded down to show their cross-sections. Black cotton ito with 3d printed cast brass menuki. I've been having a lot of fun with these window knives, and have another half dozen in the works.

S30V with 3D printed cast bronze, CNCed dyed stabilized burl, and copper pins. It's been years since I've worked in stainless at all - I love forging too much - but this customer was adamant. The handle pattern is supposed to resemble paracord wrapping. I'm going to engrave his name on the blade, removing the oxidization where the text is.

Howdy, Some of y'all may know I tend not to repeat designs, however I had the extra handle left over from my previous, nearly identical, tanto from a couple months ago, and I couldn't help myself. It's a century-old file I reforged and heat treated with APG-36 clay and Parks 50. 12.25" OAL, 4" handle. Sheath is goat leather I got from the only tannery in Cyprus while on vacation there. Comments and critique encouraged, Theo

Still putting the final touches, but she's 99% there. Another 50+ year old file, forged to shape, deferentially heat treated with APG-36 and Parks 50 quench, and a 3D printed high-density polymer handle that was designed to fit the tang like a glove. I was tempted to water quench but wasn't willing to risk it since I was already leaving the teeth on. Also included a pic of an acrylic knife display I made myself at my new job, designing for and operating lasercutters.

I am making a version or Prince Naulas Magic Spear this week. Yes, THAT Prince Naula. From Hellboy 2: The Golden Army. I was given a lawnmower blade so & cut, sanded, sanded more, and came up with what you see in the picture. The 16.9 oz water bottle was added for scale. The entire blade measures 13 inches long. Of that, 4 inches will be embedded into the wood. The wood will be carved to approximately 22 inches long x 3.25 inches wide x .75 inches thick. I am using wood that I think is too long because i am going to be able to keep trimming it back until the balance feels right. The original http://www.nitrocomi...es/39104023.jpg My version: The handle I am carving by hand to look something like this, but with burned in filigree http://www.handaxepr...aded/FS1201.jpg Inserting the blade into the wood using this method http://www4.gvsu.edu...nifemaking1.htm However I will be using two, 2 inch Chicago Screws like these to secure it instead of a but cap. http://ak.buy.com/PI...0/218913383.jpg Then making something out of leather decorative to cover the part where the wood meets metal, this http://i964.photobuc...er/75221e7a.jpg http://i964.photobuc...er/ca0ad10f.jpg I am going to Temper and Anneal next. My plan is to temper it in the forge as evenly as I can until its “straw yellow” then quench in motor oil, three times. Then bake it in the oven at 400 degrees and let it cool overnight, three times. Why three times? I am shamelessly going to copy Stormcrows technique and see how it comes out. Questions for you all: 1) I am “guesstimating” that the 4 inches and two, 2 inch Chicago Screws will be deep enough to support the weight of the blade. 2) Should I add epoxy when i insert it or is that overkill? Suggested brands? 3) I can already tell that sharpening this is not going to be easy or fun. I’d like to sharpen it before i mount it. Any advice on how to get a good sharpening with just my hand tools and a few table clamps? I want to get it as even as I can over the entirety of all four edges. Thank you for any input!

I have an 4 1/2 inch angle grinder but I can’t seem to get the angle right with it for an American Tanto point. Should I hot cut it with a chisel? Is a bench grinder how its done? I appreciate any advice. The best I can get it to without messing up the blade with the angle grinder is something like this: I want it to come out like these: