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Found 7 results

  1. So 8 years ago i started this dagger and i never finished it all that was left was to put the handle on and polish it up. Finally got around to it this weekend. the blade is hand forged L-6, 1018 cross guard and kingswood handle with a copper pommel. The edges are cannel ground and sharp enough to slice paper with effort. Good and durable for a stabbing implement.
  2. *I realize I accidently posted in the blacksmithing forum instead of the bladesmithing forum...however I am finding it difficult to put this in the appropriate area, my apologies!* So I'm working on my second knife project (posted my first one earlier), and I had some questions with regards to the heat treat (which I am planning to do tomorrow). The piece itself is a dagger I am working on out of 1095 steel. I have the profile and grinding done for it, and am getting ready to heat treat, but a bit nervous about the quench. I am planning on using clay along on the spine of the dagger on both sides, but wasn't certain if there was a certain time to apply the clay, or if you just put it on before you begin heating the blade for the quench? I was thinking this would help keep the spine from getting overly hard and brittle, which would give the dagger more strength and flexibility of movement when thrusting into hard objects (not that this is the intention, just trying to learn and practice things for now.) I also was thinking this might help prevent cracks/breaking of my blade for the quench. The reason for this is because I am going to attempt to quench the blade in water, not oil... I am going to use some hot railroad spikes to heat the water up, which I am hoping will decrease the chance of any serious damage to the blade. My question there is, when I got to quench the dagger, do I plunge it in tip first with the edges perpendicular to the ground, or the flat of the blade? Are there any hints, tricks, or tips that could help me from ruining this piece? (I mean if I did, I would treat it as a lesson learned...but I'd like to avoid a catastrophic damage if possible). Also, any advice on fixes if the blade develops a warp or a crack during the quench? Thank you all for reading this....hope I made sense above haha.
  3. Well, it's been a...journey, but I finished the second blade I mentioned I was working on (knife number 2 done!). This blade caused me a lot of trouble, and I learned a lot as I went, but as always, suggestions/critiques always help! Story time first! I am still working on edge geometry and the bevel...trying to figure out how to improve upon those two with my hammer for the initial shaping, and then my angle grinder (really hoping for a belt sander for Christmas...think that might help just a tad). So, shaping this blade went well in my opinion, I got close to the shape I wanted, though it was a little shakier than I would have preferred. I am going to apply the techniques given to me in a previous post next time, to try to keep the blade straight and flat! I tried to clean it up as much as I could, but in the end, when I went to quench, I developed a slight bend that I just couldn't get rid of :(. The temper went well though, so the blade is definitely nice and hard :). Grinding away after the heat treat was a little difficult...the wife wanted me to try to leave some of the dark coating that appeared after tempering on the middle....and well...I just don't have the angle grinder skills needed to make that look pretty just yet....will keep trying in the future! Onto the part that taught me a whole lot...the guard and handle.... So, my initial idea for the guard was to take this piece of brass I had, and forge it out nice and pretty like, to make a fancy guard.... I learned quickly, brass is not my friend. Now, as I failed at the brass, my light was leaving, and my forge was setup outside because it was a nice day, so I grabbed the closest piece of metal ( a thin piece of 15N20) and tried to forge that into a guard.....it did not cooperate, so I just kind of forced it into a guard shape, and said it would be a forever reminder of my frustration and failure that night.... I then drilled through it (I don't have a drill press...so that was a pain too haha), and then filed away, until it fit my tang. Next was the handle.... I got a nice piece of blackwood for this blade (thought it would like striking with a brass guard....as we know that didn't work out haha). So, without a drill press, I placed my block of wood in my vice, and tried to use my powerdrill to punch through both ends. That became quite the struggle, and after a lot of fighting, switching bits, and changing which angles I was drilling at, I sort of had a path for my tang to go through. However, it wasn't wide enough, and my file broke on me....(cheap files are definitely a lesson learned), so I thought, well, might as well try a burn through...only problem, my forge was off and cool, and all I had for a heat source was a little plumbers torch..... Lets just say my patience lasted to about 3/4ths of the way burned through...and then the hammer came out. Proceeded to accidentally crack my handle material...so out came the epoxy. (I attached everything before I cleaned my guard up....ugh). Today, after I let my epoxy set for 24+ hours, everything was held nice and tight together, so out came the angle grinder again, as I worked the guard the little I could, and the handle material. Then I took it home, polished it up by working my way up to 2500 grit sandpaper on the edge, and am now, finally, sharing my second attempt at making a blade, with all of you! (Will also attach a picture below that has my first and second blades sitting side by side). Thanks for reading, and I hope you all enjoyed my story! Blade is made from 1095 Guard is made from 15N20 Handle is Blackwood
  4. I've been meaning to post this for two months now. I always seem to have time to read 4 to 10 posts made by other people everyday, but can't find the time to make one of my own. The blade is 5160 and is 10 1/2" long with a distal taper. I made this one for a friend and it's the longest blade I've finished. I poured my own brass for the guard.
  5. DRoeder

    Crusades Dagger

    9 7/8", 5160 blade. 15 1/4" O.A.L. Crusades Dagger. This is elegance at its finest !
  6. I'm looking at making a quillon dagger to the specifications of the ABS Master Smith certification (which brings up a whole can of worms that I don't want to get into on this post). I was looking at pictures of WIP online and noticed that a few of them had a step down kind of thing going on with the tang. Is there a reason for this? I've been making knives for years and haven't seen this technique used. Maybe I'm just living under a rock!
  7. A customer had seen a larger dirk that I had done recently and requested something a bit smaller...more in the 10 inch range. He was kind enough to give me full artistic license and I came up with this smaller dirk. The overall length is 10 inches so just in between a sgian dubh and a dirk. The guard is nickel silver, the blade is forged 1084, and the wood for the sheath and handle are curly maple. I wasn't able to photo graph it quite right and it kept coming up more reddish. Another thing is that I was in such a rush to snap the photos before I ran home that I forgot to slide the knife all the way into the sheath (my blonde moment of the day) but the knife fits into the sheath with a nice "click". The sadder thing is that I didn't notice until I was looking at the pictures on my computer... In any case here is the knife that I have dubbed Bumblebee for obvious reasons. Thank you for looking and all comments are welcome.
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