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I Forge Iron

Quench.

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About Quench.

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    Raleigh, NC area

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  1. I don't understand, so I drew a bad diagram of the handle mount with letters so you can point to where you are thinking to put a roll pin. I would like to like the handle to be adjustable. -Q
  2. Exactly. And I use it to displace the condensation that collects when humid weather comes in after the metal has gotten cold. Oil is no good then--it doesn't displace the condensation and makes a mess. But you have to go back with the oil later, because the WD40 evaporates pretty quickly. But sometimes I just and spray after the weather and then forget to go back with the oil.
  3. Drat, I used grease. Oh well, guess I'll clean it out and squirt some oil in there. Have more oiling to do on various tools. Screwy weather over here is rusting everything in a flash. WD40 is easy to spray but just doesn't last worth diddly. -Q
  4. I did consider using the fan housing bolts to mount it, but the overall level of fabrication looked at least as difficult as this solution. I don't consider this temporary, unless it's to put a base on it made of pressure treated wood, and maybe add casters on lifters. It's quite solid and works well. The handle needs work. Keeps falling out. The set screw can't tighten well enough and loctite won't hold it. I'll probably put a small screw or bolt on either side of the spindle at least to stop it from falling on the ground when it gets loose -Q
  5. As noted in the prior thread, I picked up a Champion 40 blower in pretty decent shape, minus a handle. I added a handle, and made a stand for it from 2x lumber. This blower has no mounting bracket. It was meant to be attached by the square output flange. So the stand was tricky. First I took the 2" iron pipe (air inlet) from the forge, and added the floor flange, then clamped that on the blower. Then I clamped the pipe into my bench vise, with the blower attached. First picture. My son helped me get it angled properly. Then I figured how much too high it was (about 15"). So I stac
  6. This fixed most of the issue. I think everything is lined up, and the spring seems even. Post fits into a pipe fitting, welded onto a plate, bolted to the base that the stump rests on. So the post doesn't move. The vise will close properly with nothing in the jaws. After tightening the pivot joint as much as I dared, then backing it off just a smidge, it mostly stays aligned with the work in the jaws on the right side and it stays aligned all the way with the work on the left side. I'll have to make some shims as well. Thanks for your help. Picture below is after tightening. Still
  7. Of course, you are right. I took a class at the John C. Campbell Folk School and learned some good hammering techniques there, and I try to practice them. One issue is my anvil (ASO) which you can see in my post here: That shape (very wide), and its stand (4 rows x 4 columns of 4x4 blocks), does not allow me to stand quite right for all operations. Some operations I can, though--like for some drawing out, and that can really aggravate the elbow if not done properly. But some other operations require me to use the far edge and I just can't get positioned right. Also, that ASO does no
  8. I know there are a lot of threads on this: how to prevent, mainly body / hammer techniques. Some treatments. I'm only doing this as a once-in-a-while hobby, so developing proper hammer technique doesn't come quickly, and I can't justify buying nice hammers / equipment. I already had some elbow issues from "computer/mouse work" and from some weight lifting lots of pushups. Hammering a few weekends in a row -really- made the problem worse. So...I'm no doc, and I've not seen a doc about this problem. I've been taking a lot of Advil, and icing, and doing a wrist-down-stretch which sort
  9. Ah, thanks, that's one to check too. I've not taken the vise apart, since it all seemed operational before. I don't think mine goes out of alignment with nothing in the jaws. But this is good to have in the thread in case someone else hits it. Thanks again for great suggestions.
  10. Thank you all for the thoughtful and helpful replies. Sorry to not reply earlier; was at the forge much of the day, trying to beat the rain (made it), and form a couple dragon heads for gifts. They're terrible. Clearly past my limited experience level. The little crosses I did last weekend were so much easier. Anyway--getting off track--I was fighting that vise the whole time. One side is not as bad as the other. I didn't think about putting something of similar thickness on the other side (duh). I'm not sure how I would have gotten that piece in place without three hands. Thomas'
  11. Wow. That's an awful thick casting to be worn out. I thought it was made that way...
  12. I finally mounted a post vise I've had for years. The vise closes fine when there is nothing in the jaws. But if I clamp something on one side or the other, as shown in the pictures, the jaws move sideways relative to each other. That makes it very hard to align something in the jaws. Any ideas what's wrong with the vise? Can you see from the pics if I'm maybe missing a part? Can this be adjusted? Thanks! -Q
  13. Thanks... I guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to have such a hole. It looks to be about the right height above the bottom of the oil reserve to allow the gear to catch the oil. Otherwise might be easy to overfill. I agree: from Google Images search, I couldn't see any others with visible holes. This blower is a bit different than most I've seen online. It has no easy method of mounting. No mounting bracket. It has a square flange on the output, and the square flange clamps to the manifold with two triangular-looking clamps with a lever and a cam. This pulls the two square ends togeth
  14. I picked up a Champion 40 blower in pretty decent shape, minus a handle. Cleaned it up. I was working on making a stand for it today and noticed what I thought was a blob of crud I missed when cleaning it. Turns out it was what looks like a tiny nail, and it was plugging a tiny hole. I'm wondering if that is supposed to be an oil level overflow/weep hole? I re-plugged it, but you can see it in the close up picture, right above the "PA." The little circle in the center id from my punch. The plug is kind of soft, almost like lead. Anyone else know what the hole is for? Thanks! -Q
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