Heat Treating, general discussion

what is the easiest way to aneal a rasp and know what temp to get it to for a backyard hobbist trying to learn how to make spurs

I suppose many people know about this process, but I have not seen it on IFI. I have found that by using an aerator (low pressure air compressor in this case) in a "slack barrel" that low carbon steel will harden to the point that it is brittle. Any air supply should be enough to aerate the water, (bellows, hair dryers). I have the use of sodium hydroxide and have in the past used it to harden low carbon steel. The use of the aerator seems to harden as well or better and will not upset osha (maybe). It will also knock off scale, like salt water and sodium hydroxide. All in all it is seemingly safe and effective. Maybe it will work with RR Spikes. The reason that I use…

Firstly, I haven't been on here in a long time. But summer is coming around and I want to get back to finishing my forge. Anyways. I'm a mechanical engineering student, and I've had quite a bit of course material relevant to metallurgy, but I still have a few practical questions. First of all, when Looking at a time temperature transformation phase diagram of eutectoid steel (0.76 wt % C), before cooling we always assume that the material is 100% austenite. If I have a piece of eutectoid steel, so with 100% pearlite microstructure, at room temperature, assuming negligable time to reach above the eutectoid temperature (~727C) how long does the specimen take to reach 10…

http://www.dfoggknives.com/PDF/Houghton_On_Quenching.pdf This is an Awesome reference Sam

I have a 36" piece of A2 tool steel. It came from a drop room so it's an odd size: roughly square and about 44/64". I've been looking for a way to use this and I was thinking it would make a nice spring fuller. To fit this purpose, I'd need to flatten part of the bar to give it the "springiness" I need. I will also need to bend the A2 to give it a hairpin shape. If the bending is doable, I may double a section of the bar first and drive it into my hardie hole. If A2 will work for this application, what impact will heating have on the bar's hardness and temper? I'd appreciate any pointers. ToolSteel

I am looking at making a heat treating oven and am on the search for heating elements. I came across some reasonably priced ones on ebay that seem to be the right size. However, it says nothing about the minimum/maximum stretch length and the seller is clueless. Is there any general rule of thumb I could use here? Also, what recommendations would you have when it comes to wiring them? In series through a heater controller? Thanks! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400305853088&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123#ht_1122wt_1163

Hey guys, I wanted to ask where I can find a cheap/good thermometer that goes to around 1000°C? Yes I know that's kind of high.. no wait... this is a Blacksmith forum... should be fine. Anyways, could you guys make any suggestions? I'd prefer one with a needle (old-school gauge style) if possible, but electric is fine. Thanks a lot! Also I'm new, so if this needs to get moved then please move it. -Coal

Got two 1.25" dia tie rods from work thinking they would be tough and make good drifts.....anyone know what kind of steel they might be and thoughts on tempering...thx, Keith

In a couple of weeks time, I will be traveling a considerable distance to take a look into a used continuous furnace we are looking into buying. The furnace we are looking into is a Can-Eng Continuous Belt line. It is gas fired. Max temp is 960 C . The line consists of a cold loading entrance, hardening furnace, belt quench, post belt washer/temper. It will be re-bricked prior to shipment. This will be the first time we buy used machinery, What should we look at when visiting the furnace? and tips on what to pay special attention to? What documentation should we ask the seller to provide? Is there some kind of "buyers guide"? Maybe a list of questions that should…

In a previous question I asked a few beginner questions about heat treating tools in a kiln - the advice given was extremely helpful. One more question, if you all will indulge my desire to use a heat treating oven for as many steps as possible... I've been experimenting with hardening and tempering my striking tools using only the oven and quenchant. This has been working great with the exception of producing a tool with a hardened striking end... a problem on a number of levels. I may have found a solution to this, but would like to run it by the experts here for a critique or suggestions. After tempering I've stood the tool up in a shallow metal dish with abou…

after 14 yrs being away from knife making .. and now going back to it ,, i find myself at a loss of memory .. harding 5160 with a propaine forge .. and using chevron 70 quenching oil . i started .. my forge at 10 lbs ,, after warming took it to 5lbs gas .. the forge is a venturi system , no blower , oil 125 degrees , my edge thinkness is 5/32nd thick enough meat to protect the inturnal egde . i have taken to nonmagnetic .. to different temps but all has been non magnetic , and after quenching .. im not getting a heavy scale at all .. and no slate gray ,, a file will cut it .. i have treated the same blades .. 3 times ,, and still the same . my flame at the oven…

This is my first post after weeks of reading through this wonderful resource - I've learned a ton and want to thank all of you for sharing your knowledge! I've worked with metal all of my adult life and have decided that it's time to learn more about the heat treatment process. My goal is to make the process as repeatable and accurate as possible - so that I can keep notes, control the variables (as much as possible), and learn from my mistakes (and sucesses, down the road!). I have a evenheat programable heat treating oven to work with. I would like to both austenize and temper using the oven, the problem being that it's not really possible to cool the oven from har…

I found this on the internet while doing a google search on normalizing, I thought it was quite interesting and might clear up some questions beginners have. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_BH6HqpPtk

I will be hardening my DIY air hammer dies.They are H13 2x2.5x6 I figured I'd ramp pre heat the dies to 1100 F and soak 2 hrs they take they up to 1800 and hold for an hour. Then oil quench to 700 F then air cool to 135 and temper at 900 for 2 hours. They are mounted on 1/2x6x6 plate and welded with 10018 rod. This will be my first time at doing dies or any thing near this large. Does anyone see a problem with doing this. I could flood the furnece with argon to help reduce decarb but if I don't need to do this then it would make life easier not to mention cheeper. I have about 12 gal of quench oil, I would like to do top and bottom at the same time if that is enough oil?…

First of all let me say that I have no idea what type of steel I have here so that may make it hard to answer my question. I have 4 identical pieces 5/8" diameter about 4' long bent like a shepherds crook with a lug stamped at the end they are some form of carbon steel and make a fantastic "clang" when struck which is why I decided to make a dinner bell from one of them. Trouble is after forming the triangle and forging a hook I have altered the temper and it no longer "clangs". Any ideas on how I may get that sound back again? Cheers Ian

I've always applied paste wax (Johnson's) on my interior stuff when it still has the grey scale color from forging which gives me a black finish. I recently found some candleholders I had made almost 10 yrs ago but never finished so they were coated in a thick rust. I have a sandblaster that I had inherited from my folks but hadn't used so I tried that for rust removal. I loved how it completely cleaned nooks and crannies in no time at all, but wasn't pleased with the dull grey I was left with. I put it to the wire wheel and shined it up then started heating with a torch. I liked the look as the colors started to run so I took the heat off and waxed it. I know that i can …

is mobic steel a certian type of steel or a manufacturer or what? Someone told me that they had some but that was the only info they had on it, and I had never heard of it? thanks.

Hello all, First I'm new to blacksmithing and I’m currently building my workshop ( pics will follow ). I’m familiar with metalwork but not blacksmithing. As a starter blacksmith I understand I have to make my tools and I was wondering if anyone can give me a simple way to start making punchers and chisels. Thanx Zord

Seemed like some good info on this site for anyone looking to start heat treating their own stuff. http://knightsfurnace.com/heat-treating/heating-treating-glossary.html Tool steel temps http://knightsfurnace.com/applications.html

I’m about to start making tooling, for the 100 lb LG hammer, I just rebuilt and put a brake on. Thanks to Sid at LG, Peacock, and McBruce by the way for your help in this endeavor. So my question is this; I’m going to make most of the tooling; swage blocks, fullers, v blocks and the like, either with spring arms or side bars to attach to the bottom die holding fixture I just machined. Most of the tools will be made of 4140 and sent out for professional heat treating, in the mid 40 RC range. I’ll try to harden and temper some of the simple, smaller tools myself, in quenching oil or canola. So, can I weld the mild steel spring arms or attachment bars on after heat treatme…

I'm ready to acquire some oil for my first oil quench tank. I'm going to make the tank out of an old fire extinguisher that is ~ 8" round and 22" tall. I will cut the top off and weld a hinged lid on it. Should be a bit over 4 gallons of quenchant. I would like to harden mostly spring steel and 4140 for things like top tools, chisels, punches and spring fullers for the PH. I would also like to try my hand at some blades. What would everybody recommend for the oil. I like the idea of vegetable oils because of the ease of getting them and the less toxic nature of the fumes and disposal, but have heard that certain kinds go rancid. How often does veggie oil need to be ch…

Good afternoon everybody, Ive been lurking around for a week or so and finally decided to join. Ive found this forum to be very helpful and look forward to be more active, mostly with questions as I am barley starting in the heat treating industry. Let me introduce myself. I am a 28 year old mechanical engineer who is the process of setting up a heat treating facility in northern Mexico. And I have to admit I am kind of new to this industry. I come from 5 years working in the Oil and Gas industry where I did mostly wellhead design but was also in charge at some point of all engineering related to all processes that took place in the plant. That included some heat treatmen…

Does anyone have experience using Soybean oil for heat treating hammers and punches?

Dear Sirs, I am working in closed-die steel forging company. Nowadays, we have problem about the production of connection rod Details are as follows: Forging Equipment: 6300 mkg Lasco Counterblow hammer Raw Mateial: SAE 4140 Forging Temperature:~ 950-1000 C 1st question: What must be the hardnees value as forged in air cooled condition? For the heat treatment, First, the part was austenized at about ~880 C during 40 minutes and quenched in 90 C oil bath. Then tempering was performed at about ~ 550 C during 1 hour. After heat treatment; Surface Hardness was 34 HRC => This is OK We have cut a tensile test sample from the body of the part as being per…

These tools both broke (chisel and punch) when I tried to use them. They were both forged from coil springs. Funny thing is, the grain patterns are so different! They were heat treated identically (quench tip in water, let it go to straw then quench tool). I think I'll order some 5160 round for tools. Would you heat treat them the way I described, or oil quench?