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I Forge Iron

CHPerdue

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Falcon, CO.
  • Interests
    My work in my studio, Fishing

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  1. The last email I have for Paul is pbranch pbranch@nwcomm.net You mite try it. HH CH
  2. That is about the right price for a NOS PW of that size. If you adjust for infation and if it one the last anvils out of the PW factory.Gold was 17.00 an OZ. This morning Gold was 1700+ an oz. I'm 63 years old and have never seen the US dollar is worth less than the Canada dollar, think about what that means. HH CH
  3. Hi All I found this build a while ago. Not to bad of a hammer to get a few ideas from. I know you don't like the tire hammer but his one has a round tup like the hammer Murry is using in his vid's. You can do your own design and scale it to your needs and drive type. Check it out. http://www.katanabuilders.com/katanablog/2058-2/ HH CH
  4. They are boiled in a large tank of costic soda. It will remove paint, rust, and old grime. Then power wash and wiped down with oil or Carnuba wax like Johnson and Johnson. Just my guess. HH CH
  5. Count me in Tom, I would love to learn. HH CH
  6. Wood, Strait grain Hickory or Osage. :D CH
  7. Hi Gator The design I posted I'm sorry to say that it is not mine. It is the one in another post on this forum by Jason. I have a set of plans form the ABANA treadle hammer which I think is either by Clay or Rob Gunter, but it is a good treadle hammer design. I used it as a guide when I built mine. There seams to be a rush to an inline type treadle design which by it's nature is complicated. HH CH
  8. Hi All here is what I came up with it like the one that is also being talked about. There is a slot cut in the front and back of the spine of this hammer for the linkage to pass through. The treadle rod can be on the outside or in the center of the spine tube. Springs can be out of the way on the back. If this helps under stand this or if it clearsup anything feel free to use it. HH CH
  9. Hi When it comes to air hammers size does matter. With a 90lb head you should have a min of a 2.5" dia cylinder with 1/2" ports as well as a Norgren 500, 5way spool valve. I would even go as far to say a 3" cylinder and 1/2" ports would be much more in line, with that weight head. It will hit much harder and it will be much more snappy. Going to a 1/2" spool valve with 1/4" cyclinder ports will not help much if at all. Good luck CH
  10. Hi Here is how a strait line mech works. You can transfer the idea to a TH. It just takes a little figuring is all :D CH
  11. Hi John I saw that from Grant but every one said to air quench??? I do have a Heat treat oven with ramp/soak PID controler. It has 2 240 volt coils and is made from k2300 soft fire brick 3"x9"x4.5" with stainless skin. The air quench seems to have worked. I Tempered them 3 times at 1050 F for 1hr/inch thinkness. I file tested a corner and they seem a little soft to me. Not sure yet if they will work, figured they would be harder. I use the stainless foil and papper inside, that worked great for scale. I can anneal them, and do over if need be. Think the dies are so thick and they take for ever to to cool to 150 or so, just not sure they cool fast enough to harden all the way.I know they are softer than my PW anvil face. HH CH
  12. Hi I.R.B.I. I just got rid of my LG 50# that I had to fix becase of the same thing a long time ago. what I did was dowl the piece back on and vee'ed the break and used a a good Ni cast rod and welded it back with many, many passes with out getting the anvil over 450 F It took a long time to get it done but need can be a great incentive. I then made a 4"X 3/8" ring that fit real tight around the top of the block, and heated it to red heat in the forge on a cold morning and beat it down past the break. It looked like a crown pushed down past the ears of a person or one of those ear warmer bands people wear these days. Then I welded the hell out of it bottom and top. It lasted 15 yrs before it broke again in another spot. Which I fixed again and then this year it broke again in a lower spot. I no longer have the hammer or any pictures of the fix. but I have to say that hammer was used hard for over 19 yrs of heavey work every day. The fix held up with out a hitch. Some times I think the castings of these old hammers was a little light. They where sold to famers to sharpen plows on and had to be light to ship back then. I think some had less than the best cast iron in them as well. This as a comon thing, Sid now has a bolt on sow block and dies I think. That would be the best way to fix it. Saw the dove tail off and machine the top for a bolt on sow block and use Sid's bolt on dies. If you have the coin for it? HH CH
  13. Hi Backwoods Looking good. I will be glad to see it run. Your hammer is looking great. How thick is your dies and what are they made from? I'm using 2X2.5 H13. Been thinking about having mine done by the local heat treat shop also. HH CH
  14. Hi All. Ok, so the oil quench is a bad idea? I read some place that on pieces thicker than 1" cross section should be oil quenched to get full hardness through out. Because of the mass of the die will not reach full hardness do to the long quench time? I have the SS foil and can wrap it with some papper in side. to help with decarb. I found a spec sheet that said you can air quench up to 60mm(2.36") so that may work? I'm worried about the 1/2" plate holding heat or causeing a problem? I Did weld it at about 1000 F so I did that right. I used 7018 for first pass and 10018 for the other 2 passes. I stress releaved at 1100 F and slow ramp down in the furnce. I will temper 3 times to take care of any carbide boundaries. The spec sheet I have lists H13 as quenched RHC 49-50, from 1850 F, tempered at 950-1250 F. Frank: Thanks my old friend, You was my first teacher and I have always relied on ever thing you tought me. I still have and use the S7 chisel we made in class. Thank you Master Turley. Ciladog: Do you weld the dies on the 1st or last temper? I have already welded my first set of dies, before heat treat. I have another set that I plan to make combo dies out of. Hardening first sounds like the way to go KISS. HWooldridge: Thanks for the SS foil tip, I'll use it. McBruce: We have a Heat treat shop in Colorado Springs, I may just take the other set of dies to them if I flub the dub on this set. I think I will try the air quench and 3 tempers and see what the result is. I have a backup set if needed. I have looked at several other h13 heat treat sheets and they all have a little different process. Just KISS sounds like the best way. Thanks all CH
  15. I will be hardening my DIY air hammer dies.They are H13 2x2.5x6 I figured I'd ramp pre heat the dies to 1100 F and soak 2 hrs they take they up to 1800 and hold for an hour. Then oil quench to 700 F then air cool to 135 and temper at 900 for 2 hours. They are mounted on 1/2x6x6 plate and welded with 10018 rod. This will be my first time at doing dies or any thing near this large. Does anyone see a problem with doing this. I could flood the furnece with argon to help reduce decarb but if I don't need to do this then it would make life easier not to mention cheeper. I have about 12 gal of quench oil, I would like to do top and bottom at the same time if that is enough oil? Each die and plate is about 18 lbs. Is cracking going to be a problem? How about the welds? Do I even need to heat treat the dies being H13? They are anealed after welding. Thanks and HH CH
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