Went to an auction today and got an old electric b lower with its resistive switch and a bunch of wrought iron and a little mild steel 

Better pictures of the blower and Wrought. Most is 2 x 3/4 bar.   

Foot powered forging hammer.  Does anybody know anything about it?

Don’t know what this is, but it was lying beside the road needing salvaging. 

Vehicle driveshaft

They’re hollow?

Yup, driveshaft. And yup, tube is hollow. 

Better the driveshaft get twisted up then the other expensive parts usually the u joints blow out but if you had a solid shaft spinning around under your car you'd flip. 

1 hour ago, hamerhead73 said:

Foot powered forging hammer.  Does anybody know anything about it?

That is WAY cool.  Very very rare, and that one is a design I've not seen before.  Taper and flat die, and a shear blade behind it.  What's inside the tube?  Coil spring or something pneumatic?

Totally jazzed about that, please show us more!

 

Check for any patent info on the forging hammer; I'm coveting it just looking at it!

That is a wicked cool treadle hammer. Does it still work? Look for oil holes on the pivots and give her a squirt on each side.

I think you get today's GREAT SCORE award. That fork lift IS there loading it in your pickup truck. YES?

Frosty The Lucky.

Interesting machine. Would someone explain its mechanism?  Got to know more about that thing.

13 hours ago, hamerhead73 said:

Foot powered forging hammer.  Does anybody know anything about it?

So, there's some kind of mechanism inside the cylinder that compresses when you step on the treadle, and then pushes the arm back up when the treadle is released? The top picture kind of looks like it's a spring, but is there a pneumatic cylinder as well?

Guys this hammer is just foot powered like a lot of the treadle hammers out there. I just don’t believe it would have been a treadle hammer because the dies are to close together.  I will try to get a video up of it working.

Perhaps it was designed for a specific operation; example it wouldn't need much clear space between dies for things like billet welding if there was a heavy enough head.

13 hours ago, Frosty said:

I think you get today's GREAT SCORE award.

I'll vote for that. Would love to see it in person and take some measurements like hammer to anvil clearance.

Drive shafts being hollow they are prone to harmonic noise. To dampen that noise they are sometimes filled with something, like Styrofoam. So if you plan to cut one use a saws-all and cut of one of the yokes off to see inside, before taking the cutting torch to it. 

Interesting fact, the yokes are welded on by spinning the shaft and the yoke in opposite directions. When enough heat builds up from friction they are "jammed together" and get what i have always called a "work weld" to hold them together.  

Oh for anyone who does not know the yoke is the ends with the 2 holes to mount the u-joint into. 

Sounds pretty hollow when tapped, but I’ll doublecheck. Thanks for the tip. 

Remember the yoke flange extends about 2-3 inches into the tube. The first one I cut with a hand hacksaw like to wore me out cutting next to the weld, cut through the tube and flange.

I haven't heard of them being filled. ( I've never cut one open). I do have a few old ones saved up for some giant spider legs.

2 hours ago, BillyBones said:

Drive shafts being hollow ........

This may well be the case in some instances but not all, All my prop shafts are both hollow and arc welded (speculation on which type of arc welding) and include a sliding joint.

No not all. The ones i have run into have been mostly luxury cars. I am just saying that if it is of unknown origin it is better safe than sorry before you cut one open. That run of the mill Chevy truck is most likely hollow, but it is hard to tell the difference between that and a Cadi shaft. 

 

Found a decent (smaller) anvil now after the already mentioned 75lbs ASO disaster. A 150lbs German pattern and an UAT again.

On the pictures hi looks incredible pretty. No really a bargain at 300 dollares. Will check everything this time by myself. Only drawback is the small hardy hole (<1in) so not all of my hardy tools will fit and I have to rework some hardy’s or make them new.

Wish me look when 'it followed my home' this weekend. Cheers, Hans

Looks decent, Hans; looking forward to seeing more photos. 150 lbs is a good size, too. Do those holes (pritchel & hardy) go all the way through? 

Thanks JHCC, have to drive about 180 miles because the seller lives on the oposite side of Belgium. Hope the holes are go through the anvil, and/but find them very often filled/stocked with some piece of mild steel or mud. My 250lbs UAT was one of them. Will keep you informed. Cheers, Hans

PS. did you forge some pieces on the treadle hammer yet? 

Yes, a couple of hammers, some split-rein "universal" tongs, and a new hot-cut.