gmbobnick Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Thank you George. Here is the sheath. KInda rushed it, but should serve the purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anachronist58 Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Would you be MY neighbor? Very nice work! Robert Taylor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ranstang94 Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Very nice job! Leatherwork is my bane, I am completely stalled trying to make a pair of sheathes. Feel like I can't start another build till I finish the sheathes, and since they aren't coming out right... well I have done nothing for a few weeks. killing me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 More than one I've just bent the leather over and ran a line of copper rivets down the open side. They guy who trained me was adamant that no sharp blade leaves the shop without a sheathe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purple Bullet Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 21 hours ago, ranstang94 said: Leatherwork is my bane, Try Kydex. I saw some video on making sheaths with a press. It works. You don't have to worry about a welt or a snap. Friction will hold the blade until you pull it out. If you mess up the forming you can always reheat and try again. Getting wet won't hurt it, either. Most use Chicago screws to secure, but that requires a wider "seam" than I like. I drill holes after the sheath is formed to the blade and use monofilament fishing line to sew it together. I just make sure to keep it well away from the area that covers the blade so that you don't need a welt. I first made one for my "fishing equipment" knife but forgot to take a picture before giving it to my pastor. Leather is not the best choice for a knife that may be soaked in fish juice. After seeing how well it worked I made this for my every day carry from the scraps. Not fancy, but it works well so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHC Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 Gmbobnick, would you mind if I somewhat imitate that sheath design? Like ranstang, leatherwork has presented one heck of a struggle for me. I’ve managed to make a good gun belt for my 44 mag, a decent sheath for a knife and machete, and a card wallet. Four items… out of several dozen attempts at more, and each of those successful items took several tries and produced a lot of scrap. I like that minimalist design. The knife sheath I made was produced by wrapping the knife in boiled leather (about five seconds submersion), then clamping it in a press I made for my botany classes in college while still hot and soaked. It stayed there a few days to dry. The knife was coated and wrapped to protect it from rust. After it was formed, I stitched the edges and it carries the knife much like purple bullet’s kydex, retaining the knife with friction. It’s not as good at the task as kydex, it will eventually soften over time and lose it’s snugness, but it’s been fine so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmbobnick Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 SHC, Thanks for asking. I don't think I can claim any originality, yet I don't know where or how I got the idea either. I will say that careful placement of the copper rivet does wonders for a tight fit...or for that matter, rendering the thing useless for the intended blade if not careful. Let us see how yours comes out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 I have worked with leather since my Mom taught me as a kid. It isn't that bad guys, you just need some guidance. Check out the IFI of leather - Leatherworker. net . Good group over there like here, and super helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purple Bullet Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 BGD - You're right, but sometimes leather is not the best material for the job. I can do leather, but I don't get the enjoyment that I do in heating steel and bending it to my will. Heating thermoplastic and bending it to my will isn't as fun either, but it's closer <grin>. BTW gmbobnick, that IS nice work. Don't get me wrong, leather is best when you want to get fancy. I've been thinking about trying a blacksmiths blade but I'll likely use kydex for the sheath just because its quicker for me to make secure. I lost a cable Damascus knife with an antler handle from a leather sheath when I did a low-speed tumble off my Yamaha Super Tenere. If it had been kydex I believe I'd still have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davor Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 Well I haven't made a knife in years. This one was finished this week and it is a present for a coworker who is retiring next week. Forged from coil spring, leather and oak handle. Sheet also made by me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 You haven't lost your touch. That is a fine looking and practical knife. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 Davor how is the handle attacked I don't see any pins or am i just blind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davor Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 Just epoxy two component glue. It is enough, it won’t budge. I just file in some notches in the tang so it has a better hold. And the tang is full width of my palm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 ok thanks that makes sense M.J.Lampert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 Along with the notches, I usually drill several holes in the hidden tangs. That way the epoxy will go through the holes and sort of act as hidden rivets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHC Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 You ever put a smaller diameter pin through those hidden rivets? Something like pinned scales with hidden rivet combo? Would that even be more effective, or just superfluous? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 If you put pins into the holes John drills in his tangs how would you slide the handle on? If you left clearance for pins then you'd be leaving cavities between tang and handle. Epoxy adhesives have little actual structural strength themselves. "The closer the fit and thinner the layer of epoxy the stronger the bond" is the wisdom of strong glued . . . stuff. Some 17 years ago there was a pretty intense and detailed comparison done on various adhesives, gluing techniques and test methods on the Knifenetwork. It goes into great detail and sure changed my opinion in more than one product's case. You might be surprised at what they determined to be the BEST adhesive for knife handles. It IS however 17 YRO and I didn't figure out how to ask if there were updates in my brief membership activity. http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?s=2c2f23d434bcffa23eca02c6d8f7c5ad&t=27463 Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHC Posted March 11, 2022 Share Posted March 11, 2022 I haven’t explained it well enough and quite frankly I don’t have the brainpower at the moment to do so. Today’s been one of them bad days my head ain’t been right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmbobnick Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 My latest blade looks like…well, a Frito corn chip. But I want to try carving spoons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 Nice! I've wondered how to sharpen these and how sharp you make them before forging the curve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmbobnick Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 I got the edge butter knife thin, flat on one side and beveled both ways on the other. Then rolled it flat side out. It was 1084 steel. After figuring out what color wouldn’t stick to a magnet, I danced it around the edge of the burner blast until it was even color then quenched. Just work the flat side on flat sandpaper to sharpen. Learning as I go. But so far seems good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J.Lampert Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 this is what my father uses to sharpen his oval hoof knife not sure were one can buy these though. its a Dimond sharpener that has a angled and a rounded section M.J.Lampert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 Round ceramic sharpening rods AKA Crock sticks, etc. work a treat on hook knives. Just the rods not the wood stand and sticks as shown. I used to carry a diamond sharping stick similar the one above back packing and sharpened everything with it. It was too fine to be really good on a hatchet but loved sharpening my old (1964 birthday present from Dad) Buck knife. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHC Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 I’ve got a folding sharpener from DMT, it’s great. Folds up and opens like a balisong, with the diamond sharpening “stone” concealed within the handles. It seems they’ve started making them with pointy rods now! Not sure when that happened but it wasn’t available when I got mine. I usually keep mine in my work truck for touching up tools on the job. Frosty, I’ve got a couple of old Buck knives from the mid 70’s. One is a 124 I believe, the bigger bowie style they made back then. My dad gave it to me. My uncle (younger than my dad) cut grass and saved up the money and bought it for him as a graduation gift when he graduated high school. He passed it on to me when I graduated. I carried it in Iraq and it saved my butt when I had to poke a feller with it. The other is a Buck 110 I picked up CHEAP, practically for a steal, in a sportsman’s consignment shop. Their policy was that after 45 days an item gets discounted. Each additional 30 days results in another discount percentage. This one had been sitting in a case overlooked for quite some time. I paid six dollars for it. Original leather sheath and factory edge. My opinion on them, mid century was the best era for Buck. I like their new stuff, but they just don’t seem as tough as the old ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 I picked up a Buck 110 at the scrapyard for 20 USCents a pound. It was in a drawer of an old tool chest I was buying for my grandsons. Knife is going to my Daughter the veterinarian after I clean it up a bit; the handle is a bit mucky from years in an rusty/oily toolbox. That tool chest had 3 blades buried in it: the buck, a Pakistani folder and a home made dagger, looks like to have been an old file and definitely old antler handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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