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I Forge Iron

What's your latest blade look like? Post em and let us see.


HondoWalker

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22 hours ago, Frosty said:

Oh come ON man, it's obviously a, "Sabre Tooth Hopper Chopper!"

If you're going to fantasize let your mind go!

Here it could be a caribou / moose splitter or a grizzly trimmer. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Well I've dubbed it the mastodon cleaver. Perhaps Giant carnivorous kangaroo cleaver fits better for the land down under though.

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I seem to be mixing up a couple of species, or the palaeontology has been revised since last I saw. There used to be a small dog sized carnivorous kangaroo as it turns out and a giant 2.5 meter tall one; which does look like the stuff of nightmares but seems to have been herbivorous.

Conveniently there is an extinct Australian crocodile species named "the cleaver headed crocodile". 

 

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Hello All. New member here and I don't know where to begin. I've been making my knives for a few years as a hobbyist and use tools I've made myself. I'll try to post my latest blades and I'm also looking for help with making a new forge. I built my 2x72 belt grinder as well as my current forge from stuff I had laying around and it definitely isn't "craftsman" level quality, but it works for me for now. I hope to up my game by learning new techniques from this site. These knives are made from a Farrier's rasp and

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Thank you! I have other knives but these are the latest. I'm currently looking for information on how to make a new forge that will work better than the Frankenstein I currently use. There's so much information here I'm a bit overwhelmed. I did just buy a Mr. Volcano Hero forge for $88 but it's pretty small and won't fully cover a longer blade so I'm still trying to figure out a new 2-burner setup.

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You only need to heat the part of the stock you plan on working. Heating more than that isn't good for the grain structure. Getting the entire blade up to critical for heat treating is really the only time you would need the entire blade. 

Pnut

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On 2/6/2022 at 11:31 AM, pnut said:

You only need to heat the part of the stock you plan on working.

But I had to anneal the rasps in order to be able to work them easier, which then necessitates the need to go back up to that critical heat  then quench and then heat treat afterwards to the 400-450F range, correct? I did a 2-hour 425F bake after quenching. I'm hoping I did what I needed to do to get them right.

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There are methods to heating long sections with a smaller hot spot.  They haven't stopped working in the last couple of thousand years.  If you are forging the rasps they do not need to be annealed before being forged.  If you are doing only stock removal than annealing will help.   If you are forging then setting up a forge to handle the common task is better than setting up the forge to do heat treat every now and then.  Actually a lot of us have several forges of different sizes and use the one best suited for the task---I once dug a 3' long trench forge in my backyard in inner city Columbus Ohio when I need to box fold some 3/8" plate. I expect I'll dig another one out here when a sword project reaches that stage.  Probably use lump charcoal rather than the "donated" coal as that filled the entire alleyway from side to side with coal smoke.

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I should've mentioned that I have a toaster convection oven that'll max out at 450F and I can use the timer or set it to stay on. I did the bake shortly after my quench and yes, I did a stock removal on them. I tested them to be sure they were NOT case hardened.

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No just the one built in. I guess I should get one to have a better idea of the actual temp. Never thought about it, really. I'm glad I found this forum now, but I wish I'd known about it a few years ago. So much information!

I just got warned about not using quotes but I'm used to using them in other forums where there were several "conversations"  to help others know "who" you were replying to so I didn't think it was a big deal...apparently it is here.

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bellssn690 Ya, seeing as we have members world wide and a lot of them have to rely on dial up internet or/and pay for data. quoting when it isn't necessary or quoting with a lot of pictures which is a waste data is frowned upon. To let others know who you are replying to just type in the name

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I rarely use the quote feature but if I think there could be confusion in who my reply is directed to I just put the person's user name in first, e.g. "Frosty, I like your idea" or "Bells, don't over quote."  Ezee Peezee, and probably less confusion and maybe fewer keystrokes.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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I agree the oven thermometer is a must. I've found that my toaster oven maintains heat very well but the tempature presets are very wrong. 

My kitchen oven on the other hand has a mind of its own and varies temperatures at random :rolleyes: I think I need a new one.

 

 

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George, I like the idea of using a name to help others know who you're replying to. I definitely don't want to make it harder for others to use the site and as a new member I don't want to start off by rocking the boat.

WRLD, that is a mighty fine looking blade! VERY nice!

Phil

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The only pic I have of my most recent blade. Forged as close as I could to finish, heat treated and tempered, then hammered it cold through a piece of 3/8 round stock without a bevel to prove it put. Drove it straight through the round stock and left a ding in my anvil #smh forged out of leaf spring, quenched in used motor oil and tempered to a lovely straw gold

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tried my hand at ye olde blacksmith knife.  Made it from a piece of leaf spring that my neighbor gave me.  Came our fair I suppose and neighbor gets part of his spring back as a knife.  Should work fine for cutting bale twine anyway. 

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