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What did you do in the shop today?


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I  got the stump stained today.  Turned out much darker than I'd hoped.  I was going for Golden Oak, but I didn't have enough light and ended up letting it get much darker than I expected.  My fault.  I don't normally use stains..............preferring dyes...............and just don't have enough experience with them.  I just went back with some Mineral Spirits hoping to lighten it a little.  Think I'll just have to let it dry and live with it.  I'm the only one who will ever see it, so it's not really that big a thing, I guess.  Plan on letting it dry for about 48 hours before putting a coat of Boiled Linseed Oil on it.  That will protect it and still allow the wood to dry through the finish.

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Run of pick up tongs.  2 heats per to get to this point, 2 more heats required to finish.  Starting stock 5" of 5/8" round, power hammer required.  Some of these will be forging competition prizes at the New England Blacksmiths' meet next weekend.  Be there or be a rectangular thing!

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Nice work Judson.  See you next weekend.  I'll be forging a fancy carving hatchet at green coal. 

I today cut a piece of between wood for the Refflinghaus stand and then proceeded to make the hold down bolts. 

I measured 5 times and while the length is supposed to be right they are to short as there is a funky jog on the upsetting block side. I will have to cut them in half and make 2 new ends on  longer shafts to make up the 1" needed to get them where they go. 

5/8" cross bars with 3/4" bolt sections. 

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You know, Judson.................all kidding aside, I've a whole lot to learn and have not seen a lot of power hammering.  With accolades such as JHCC as poured on you, I'd love to see your control of the hammer if you have any videos.  (That's why my handle is Chris the Curious!)

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Just a question to everyone out there. What are you’re thoughts on the end of the hold fast? The one shown about has a flat holding surface. The ones I’ve made have a vertical end with a “V” notch to hold rounds better. My thought is that the flat surface would draw more heat out of the pat, but it also tends to mar the work occasionally. They do seem to hold much better that chain hold downs though.

To those with more experience, what do you all think?

(gburgsmith, please don’t take this the wrong way. I’ve seen this style of hold down done several different ways, some no so good, and you did a good job with yours! I’m just looking for more input..)

Thanks,

David

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Goods, 

No worries, I think your question is definitely valid and I'm interested to hear any input as well. 

This hold fast is an expedient tool for the bottle opener I was working on and is based on a simple design I found online. Adding a v or notch would be little work an may be advantageous.

Looking forward to further thoughts. 

Cheers, 

Zach

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I have several hold fasts, one very like Zach's and another I swaged the foot to hold rounds. Neither of them was worth spit for holding stock on the anvil's edge as the foot either stuck over the edge or didn't reach far enough into the anvil's sweet spot. So I made one with a foot at an angle that parallels the anvil's edge but it REALLY stinks on the other edge so I made another one. Then I bade one with a wider foot on an arm that reaches well past the hardy hole so I could hold work while drifting or on a block in a swage. That long reach wasn't stiff enough to hold well and the long "arc welded on:o foot) was also too flexible. So I made another one from coil spring and thicker strap stock for the foot. 

I have others but I don't recall just what they are or what mistake led me to make that version. 

At any rate, hold fasts are fast and easy to make when you need one, just make one. B)

Frosty The Lucky.

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Well it is Sept. and here in the state of Ohio squirrel season has kicked off. Gotta have a way to cook them oh so tasty tree rats. So i made a squirrel cooker and one of them adjustable pot hangy things. 

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Not the prettiest things but functional. And seeing as how they are for my own use i do not care about pretty. I did however burn off the end of one tine, but again it works for me. 

Funny how those wierd rust rings follow me to my sittin table.

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got a little work done today.  Its tough taking off so much time in-between forging sessions.  Got lucky.  2 Days in a row.  the NEB meet is coming up next weekend and gotta get some time in the forge if I don't want to be completely out of shape. 

I have the 3/4" sections all ready done for the other side of the anvil. Just one more center link to make. 

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JHCC.  How much 4140 did you buy?  Is there really a market for it at quad state.. I mean is there money in selling steel?  

Looks like your saw has worked out well. The new motor fixed it up well by the looks of it. 

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13 minutes ago, JHCC said:

Gave the bandsaw a bit of a workout, cutting 4140 hammer blanks to sell at Quad-State. 

I salivate every time I see a bunch of your hammer head blanks, JHCC!

 

7 minutes ago, jlpservicesinc said:

I have the 3/4" sections all ready done for the other side of the anvil. Just one more center link to make.

Jennifer, those have to be the neatest hold-downs I've ever seen anyone make.  Always admired them.

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On ‎9‎/‎7‎/‎2019 at 5:36 PM, JHCC said:

Worked on The Pressciouss: switched out the 1.5hp/1725rpm motor for a 3hp/3450rpm and attempted (unsuccessfully) to switch in a higher-displacement pump. Currently working on putting the original pump back. 

Forgot to post a picture of the finished re-assembly:

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When  I connected up the new pump, the cylinder did not move, although in retrospect, I may simply not have had enough fluid in the system. Also, because its inlet and outlet ports were a different size than the old pump, I had to use a horrible jumble of fittings and bits and pieces of pipe to splice it into the existing hydraulic system, which may have contributed to the problem. I decided to put the old pump back in (since I knew that one worked) and to see about getting the correct fittings for the new pump later. 

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