What did you do in the shop today?

[jlpservicesinc]

56 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

I'll say. Wheres the side handle. That thing looks mean. 

No side handle..  you grab it right behind the wheel and put the other on the throttle.. It will also take a grinding wheel or grinding point..  No guard, no nothing..  These are the kind of grinders they were using in a foundry that went out of business back in the 90's for doing work on irregular surfaces..    I have to work out for about a month straight before I can even think about using this thing..  I was using it and I slipped falling on the ground..   It pulled me completely around the house.. LOL..  chuckle, chuckle..   

I did have a chance to film another directional forging video and then finally took the time to make a TP dishing hammer out of one of those RR bolts.. 

[JHCC]

12 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

No side handle.

As in, "side handle is missing" or "the designers didn't include a side handle"?

12 hours ago, Cade-o said:

Cool, so it's ribbon. I'll try it again soon

If you like ribbons, take a look at the work of sculptor Elizabeth Brim (easily found through Google Images or the websearch engine of your choice).

[jlpservicesinc]

No side handle was produced that I know of.   This thing is a beast..   A side handle I can't even imagine how or what angle  it would be mounted at..  it didn't even come with a guard for the wire brush models or the die grinder models..  This model was also designed to work with grinding point and has a 5/8-11thread.. 

1.5HP out of an air tool.. It's powerful enough to run the 8" wire brush without stalling it.. 

 

Tag reads:  Ingersoll Rand model 77H30B106

This info was taken from IR site.. 

RATED POWER (HP)	RATED POWER HP (KW)	MAX FREE SPEED (RPM)	EXHAUST	OUTPUT THREAD	WEIGHT (LBS)		LENGTH (IN)		VIBRATION M/S2 (UNCERTAINTY K)	SOUND PRESSURE/ POWER DBA	MIN HOSE SIZE (IN)		AIR INLET (IN)	AIR CONSUMPTION @ LOAD (CFM)	AIR CONSUMPTION @ LOAD (L/MIN)
77H30B106	1.5	3000	Side	5/8 in.- 11 Thread	7.31		17.69		5.9 (uncertainty: 2.1)	85.2 / 98.2	1/2		3/8 NPT	29	822

wire brush inline 1.pdf

[sfeile]

My big electric one is the same way. No side handle made or intended. I can't imagine how fast that would break your wrist trying to hold onto a side handle if the big wire wheels caught. Those things do NOT stall when you are hanging on to them. Mine used to see it's main use with flapper wheels for cleaning stainless pipe before TIG welding it. Although it's not as powerful as your Ingersoll it would still put a hurting on you if you aren't paying attention.

[Frosty]

I have a pneumatic die grinder very much like it and wouldn't even consider putting a wire wheel on it. I don't even know what to say about someone who WOULD misuse a tool so dangerously. I'll grant the benefit of the doubt on this one and believe you didn't know what this tool is for or how to use it. 

It's for grinding and scary enough then, if you think of it like a grown up, professional version of a Dremel, you'll have the right idea.  Even carbide burrs are hard to control in one of those. This is THE tool for turning a 3/4" dia. hole into a hardy hole. Another use would be making special swages say a dog print die that'll produce a dog print proud. It's a DIE GRINDER.

I picked up a number of bench grinders, some electric, some belt driven at yard sales for my wire wheels. Two 4.5" right angle grinders are dedicated to brushes one straight one cup. 

If I want to use a powered brass brush I have a smaller electric die grinder that the speed's much easier to control, numbered selector by the on off switch. I even have a cable for this one but it's not complete and I haven't hooked it up, I don't use a die grinder enough to justify hunting up the parts.

I'm sorry to go on but this is a scary dangerous misuse of a power tool. I don't have so many friends I can afford to lose one if I can do anything to prevent it.

Frosty The Lucky. 

 

[jlpservicesinc]

Frosty..   This is not a die grinder..   

This  model in particular was designed for wire brushes and is the reason it only turns at 3000rpm vs 5K or more for the grinding models (small air powered 1/4" die grinders are  between 15000 and 30,000 rpm for the 1/4" and they also make wire brushes designed to run on these as I have a few , wire brushes, cut off wheels,  finishing disks, surface prep disks, grinding wheels) . I own 8 or 9, 1/4" die grinders and they range from 1/8 hp to 1/2hp..  They are one of my go to's when doing fabrication work, or engine porting and polishing.. I also use a wooden hollow that I use as a hand hold on a 12" long burr for port and runner polishing.. 

It is not for the faint of heart to use..  I've used it with wheels between 4" and 8" and the danger is there no matter what.. 

This tool was and is designed for brushes and not just a random wheel thrown on to see what it can do...   I've also used it for buffing..   The right tool for the job is the right tool for the job and this eats slag and spatter like a champ..     With any tool Common sense is needed..  

the tool sells between 1100- 1300.00.. 

Edited May 26, 2018 by Mod34
It is not necessary to use the quote feature when replying to the immediately preceding comment.

[Frosty]

I concede, it says you can put a brush on one right on the pneumatic GRINDER parts sheet. Is there a date on that sheet? From before safety glasses were required maybe?

I wouldn't allow that set up in my shop, for any reason. Too good an example of a Darwin Award tool, somebody might think it's a good idea and I like being able to look at myself in the mirror in the morning. The guilt I'd feel if somebody used a monstrosity like that based on MY example would be bad. 

If you want to take that kind of chance with your own self please do it in private. Your shop, your rules, your body parts, your life. YOU were complaining about how hard it is to control. Yes? Why encourage beginners to do something so dangerous?

As the experienced, the old timers we have responsibilities to folk just breaking into the craft. Normally I just leave how tos demonstrating poor technique, strange tool use, etc. go without comment. But I can NOT in good conscience leave this one without warning folk.

That's it I have NOTHING more to say on the subject.

Frosty The Lucky. 

 

 

[jlpservicesinc]

I'm sorry, but I don't see where i was trying to convince new or young people to use such a device..     I was just showing what it is I use and I also mentioned how dangerous it is.. 

The Parts sheet and owners manual is there..     It seems like you had a little bit of a knee jerk reaction to it which is for a good reason, but..   I too would never let anybody use it at my shop... 

Common sense allows for a lot of variation..   You would never send a newbie to walk a tight rope 10 stories up but that doesn't mean that there is no starting point..  

One could argue that a job as a farrier is or can be more dangerous than a Policeman's yet it still is a job that is done by a lot of people whom never wear safety glasses or gloves yet the occurrence of cuts is daily as well as kicks, bites, and this isn't even involving tools..  Many Policeman never have to draw their side arm in service.. 

Anything  for the most part is dangerous, driving a car, riding a bicycle,  walking on the RR tracks.. crossing the road. Etc etc..  All of these things present a problem..  Ill fitting tongs, loose or bad hammer handles..  ETC, etc..   Everybody learns to somehow cope.. 

Not sure why it seems to always become a matter of difference..     I also own a 9" disk grinder which is 3hp and will pull the arm out to the socket if not careful..   I also own a neat cement nail gun that you smack on the back of it to set the charge off and set the fastener.. 

There are so many things that are dangerous  to do that no one even thinks about till it's to late. (slipping in the shower, walking on ice).  Walking on the road with headphones on as another example..  Climbing a ladder, 

Everything a person does involves some risk... It is the reason why this world is looked at as so unpredictable..    

Sorry if this Ingersoll rand tool offends your sensibilities..  It's just a tool like any other..      I do where a face shield and welding leathers while using it.. It is not a tool for the faint at heart..  

If it seems unreasonable to you as a tool..  I'm sorry I ever mentioned it,, But it works really, really well.. 

 

[sfeile]

Actually the last place I worked we did use those all the time. With wire brushes even.

You want to add an even better thing to get people going, we threaded some of them onto a pipe instead of the air fitting then a valve at the end to turn it on and off. (those we did have a side handle on though) We have "handles" of varying lengths and used them to clean the insides of built pipe spools to be installed for testing set-ups of multi-million dollar gas compressors. 16 inch pipe up to 48 inch, you can "rock" it back and forth pretty easily to do a linear section then roll the pipe and repeat until finished. Smaller pipe you had to be careful, or it would just take off going around and around the inside of the pipe.

So Jennifer's shop isn't the only place you'll find one. They are still used in some industrial applications. It is a tool that was designed for that use. She is doing nothing wrong with it just using it as it was intended to be used. They are bigger than most people would feel comfortable with and that's absolutely fine. But they do exist, and do get used everyday.

[Hans Richter]

Finished the first two hardy tools with a ¾ hardy square for the 150lbs UAT (Anvil hardy & Bottom fuller). And more to come, as an swage swans neck, an anvil horn and a bottom anvil tool. Also prepared the blanks of two springer fullers (cutting & offset). After that I think I can tackle the most common work steps on the ‘Benjamin’ UAT to.

As you see I use chains (for the first time) to make the little boy quiet, he was singing and ringing on his metal stand like an ‘opera diva’ to entertain the whole neighbourhood.

Accomplished the two other fire keeper toolsets on him, and feel (with the light material) no difference between the impact and usability with his bigger 250lbs UAT brother standing next to him.

[Daswulf]

Nice Hans. I used thinner rubber mat under the two I have on metal stands. Seems to have quieted them down a good bit but they are not cast steel either. 

[jlpservicesinc]

• Hans nice tooling.. Well done..   Do did you mig weld then and then clean up the bottoms? 

[Hans Richter]

Hi Das-thankx, used a rubber mat to,  you see them hiding under foot between anvil and stand. In my case with the cast anvil that seams not enough. Will add 3 pieces of 1 ½ in thick wooden footplates under the stand legs also. I build the height on this stand and anvil up to my fist (when I’m standing next to him). All the other anvils are 2in higher. Now I have the idea to must bend over while forging.

Hallo Jennifer, indeed will weld the mild steel hardy squares trough the 13ChroMo hardy heads. But will use the stick welder with AISI 309 electrodes to make a decent ‘black & white’ filled weld. Like I did with the dies sets for the air hammer with a FW multilayer and pre-heating. This requires a decent welding preparation with a serious bevel on the hardy squares of at least two times the welding stick diameter on an angle of 38°. Good result on the dies –use them now for more than a year without any ruptures or cracks. Ditto for welding joints between air hammer fullers and rebar handles.

[bubba682]

I use 309 alot on the exotic metals in my shop it saves on pre heat and post heat as long as its not a critical weld its also great on piston rams on backhoes and boats ,etc for repairs. I used it on the anvil and ram dies on my power hammer when i cut and welded the rail track to mild steel plates.

[Hans Richter]

Booked some progress on the hardy tools and springer fullers. From left to right – mild steel cutting plate fits on hardy hole, an bottom anvil springer fuller offset, bottom fuller, bottom anvil, bottom anvil cutter, bottom fuller springer fuller offset. Anvil horn and turning hardy ready to come. Made all from 13 ChroMo and mild steel hardy square welded together with already mentioned 309 sticks.

If you count approx. 70 dollares for each piece I saved several hundred dollars on it.

The springer fullers will look like the same I already made for the bigger brothers of the ‘Benjamin’ anvil.

[bubba682]

There nice lookin hardies Hans im goin to check out a machine shop here and see if i some chrome or stainless end cuts cause your idea will save alot of time and money [plus make some nice tools..

[58er]

Rose lamp. 

[jlpservicesinc]

Beautiful.   How long did it take to make?

[58er]

Thanks. I would say I have 10 hours into it. Over a period of 2 days. 

[Daswulf]

Beautiful lamp 58er. 

[bubba682]

Nice work 58er how many hours...

[JHCC]

Finished welding up an upsetting swage for making a flatter, a la Torbjörn Åhman (IFI member Tubbe):

Now all I need is some stock with thick enough starting dimensions. 

[Nick Owen]

Herb chopper V1. 

Its full of cold shuts and it's ugly but not bad for a first attempt. It was my first attempt at forging a blade and my first proper heat treat and temper. If I hadn't screwed up getting so many cold shuts as I put a shoulder in to draw the handle out I also wouldn't have ended up with such deep hammer marks that scarred the surface. V2 will be much better!  

[SFC Snuffy]

JHCC, that's an impressively-sized swage! What sort of interior dimension do you have, and how big do you want/need your starting stock to be?

Nick, I made a couple of similar choppers for family members and had many of the same issues with cold shuts. The one that I started for myself I snapped the handle/"tang" right off of it. I'll probably make it into an ulu, but for now it's languishing in project limbo.

[BryanL]

Hey folks,

Went for a double hook this time. Made a set of 5 to trade to a buddy for some engine work.

Bryan