SLAG Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Co. c j, Some of the I.f.i. have the dial up type internet connection. Quoting a long description; or worse, a series of pictures takes forever to download. It also eats up a lot of bandwidth. That's why it got edited. You can use the quote function here, but please edit the quote. This site has only a 30 minute time span within for editing. That is why you were not "allowed" to edit your entry. Regards, SLAG. Oops, Frosty pre-posted the content of my response. Sorry folks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 No big deal, we all had to do the learning curve and just wait till you discover the OS upgrades itself now and then and we all get to learn new rules. Cool, it's not often I can beat Slag to the draw! Not actually, I submitted my reply before CJ replied so Slag is commenting to your reply. Fun keeping this stuff straight ain't it? Keeps us sober just to keep our brain circuitry from tangling worse than it is. It's all good CJ, you'll get the hang of the forum. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyBiker Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 Mine is getting close to being finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 Nice anvil stand but all the 4 x 4s are the same color. could be pretty psychedelic, give folks something to remember you by or distract them from THAT mark . Just something to think about you know. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado CJ Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 I completed my anvil stand yesterday. The anvil is sitting on a bed of silicon and held down by 6" x 1/2" lag bolts and 1/4 strapping. There is no ring at all when hammering on the anvil. I also used some flat stock and tigged up some hammer/tong/hardy hangars and bolted them to each side of the stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 That looks really great. Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 Nicely done CJ but once again all the posts are the same color. What is it with you new guys? Good move putting the racks on the ends of the anvil. I put them on the sides on my stands and it's possible to get close enough they're in the way. Not much but I prefer zero in the wayness. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyBiker Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 Sealed it with linseed oil & it darkened up way more than I'd wanted or expected. But I'm sure once it has some slag on it it won't matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC Hammer Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 I like the dark look. Reminds me of those old stumps that were in a blacksmith shop for 50 years and the scale / coal dust turns them black almost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlight Tools Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Been trying to combine anvil stand styles I have found perusing the internet and come up with a design to build to support the anvil I am going to get. Aiming for a 275 Lbs but may end up larger. Any thoughts on the design I have come up with? Aim to use material I already have in inventory, 2" hitch Tube and 2" x 2" x 1/4 HSS Tubing to make an adjustable height stand. Which would put the top of a 12-1/4 in high anvil at between 27-1/4" to max height of 36-1/4" My "optimal" height by the closed fist knuckle loosley at the side is 29" I have three different foot options, Option one - 1/2" thick steel plate, 2" x 6", this allows the stand to be bolted down, but doubt it would be as it will be a finished concrete floor with in-floor heating. Option two - Hockey puck bolted to the bottom of the foot. These make excellent non slip feet and would protect the concrete floor. Option three - Hockey Puck leveling foot. I have used this design a lot and allows the stand to be adjusted for uneven floors. Thanks for your opinions. Walter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranchmanben Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Walter, I don't like anything under the hardie hole or directly under the horn as these areas tend to be used for pass thru or long sections over the horn.. Sides are ok to put tooling and find this to be optimal after 42 years of service.. Stacking tooking on the sides works well on the standing side.. The off side also but might want to see what types of things you like to forge and then put things there.. I use a shelf that I can move tight to the stand on 270Degrees around the far side from heel to horn and this allows for me to have a quench bucket under the hardie or pritchel for drifting or handy for holding items needed at either end of the anvil with just an easy swing of the arm/tray.. Check out the videos for JLP services Inc or look at the trailer build.. I think the stand is included in the last pages.. As for bolt down.. Nice.. I also like a stand like JHCC's built as it offers a good solid profile.. I want a stand that has no bounce or give.. I worked on a stand that would walk around the shop even with a flat floor anytme I worked on the horn or hardie hole.. For light work a stand less than stellar rigidity works but ideally a stand that offeres the same stiffness as a stump is what I prefer.. My only real problem with this stand Ben is there is no ability to pass a rod down though the hardie hole that will reach the floor.. it is one of the most fustruating things about the Peddinghaus anvil in the new design.. the hardie hole is directly over the feet as is the pritchel hole.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starlight Tools Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 Thanks There will be a hole directly under the hardie hole to pass stuff through, once I determine where the hardie hole will be located, as the anvil is not here yet, I can only work out the details that I have available, if the hardie hole is not directly in line with the feet as you have mentioned, which I would not be surprised if it is. The side slots are 1" wide so they can be used to hold tongs or to hold hardies. The basic concept for this stand was one that was posted on millerwelds.com It was made with 2x3 HSS and 1x3 HSS tubing with the 1" plate top and has four legs. I figured the three leg style would be more self leveling. I doubt this stand will bounce around as it will be well stiffened and made form fairly heavy material, all welded together. I will look at how to incorporate a swinging tray. Anybody attempted to drill out a hole under the Hardy on the new Peddinghaus design? I have drill bits that drill Hardened steel in the 42-65 Rockwell "C" range. Thanks Walter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranchmanben Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 Jennifer, I’ve never had much of an issue with not being able to pass material through the hardy hole. If I need that kind of room I go to the post vise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 I"ve used it to hold bars while upsetting the ends.. It's rare but it comes in handy.. the other part is when you have a hold fast.. The bottom half of a peddinghaus is soft.. a die grinder would fix it, but I hate to do work that should have been designed in at the factory.. The Reflinghaus has the holes so bars will pass right by the feet.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranchmanben Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 I could see that use. Luckily I’ve got other anvils I can use for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 I"m not sure how many people would actually use it this way, so in thought it's a concept of use for most.. At the last NEB event they have been trying to standardize the equipment and moving into tubular stands with sand or gravel in them.. They have racks on each end under the heel and horn and I was forging a pair of bolt tongs and the jaw would get hooked on the rack under the horn each and every time I used the horn the way it should be.. It's things like this that are easy to fix or not to make to begin with.. But again.. not a lot of people will even use the hardie hole for such a thing as holding a bar.. It's funny now that when I design something I try to think of all the things I don't want in it vs the things I do.. When all things get added up this method usually leaves me with the better design before I even get started.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawk18 Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 Just finished this for my new anvil. I like it so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 Very nice! Did you put anything (thin rubber, silicone caulk) between the anvil and the stand to mute the ring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawk18 Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 There's a 1/4" rubber casket under the anvil. I wish I had square tubing but the 2" X 1/4" angle iron was all I had. It probably would have been quieter if I could have packed the legs with sand. It's not too bad with the rubber and the magnet. Those darn bicycle lock people made that cable about 6 or 8" too short. I may have to use a piece of chain. Hawk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 Funny place to keep them....welcome to the typo club! (Yes we know you meant gasket.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 I don't know.. I figured maybe a pet spider, or caterpillar or the like put in the casket under the anvil.. My hay budden could easily hold a mouse casket or bat casket.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 Trentons' caplet could store stuff. My HB is nearly flat on the bottom. You can just barely see the remains of the hourglass. I guess we could stick the odd 5 caret flawless blue white diamond in the handling holes---for luck of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawk18 Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 Yup. Fat fingers for sure. Also meant the cable is too long. And, if you're bothered by my typing skills, don't look too close at my welding. Hawk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimpickins Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 New stand. 1 inch plate on 1/4 inch wall, 2 in. x 3 in. legs, which sit 9 deg. off vertical (no sand). 5/8 in. bolts with hardwood wedges to hold down extra tight. No caulk between Anvil and plate, but magnet under heel with kids bouncy balls jammed in handling holes keeps it all quiet with no ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.