ThomasPowers Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 I think I would have gone with quarters rather than halves so to have closing up adjustment on both the x and y axis. Of course if it's just 2 vertical slabs then halves work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojo Pedro Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Actually 3 4x12s. It clamps real tight and I could hear them crunching as I tighted them up. Works much better than the the ratchet strap I was using. This was the first time I used my post vice to forge with, bent the corners then cleaned them up on the anvil, very fun to do, love my new hobby! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reeltree Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Just need to strap ' er down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 I hope you saved the bark and the offcuts from squaring up the block. Makes great tinder and kindling, excellent for starting the fire in your forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reeltree Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Yeppers,,,and a nice size bag of shavings for aroma satchels,,I don't let much go to waste around here,,cedar is a fav. to burn in stove during the holidays and throw a couple pieces on the fire pit for the nice colors it puts out, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 That's a beautiful chunk of wood for an anvil stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reeltree Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Speaking of cedars , just finished checking fence lines for down trees from high winds..and more cedar to be had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefse Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 It's not set in sand fite me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 If the frapping is needed I would suggest tying it off every time it goes behind the wooden piece. Otherwise the first time hot steel hits the twine you may have a unstable weight on your toes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefse Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 There's 5 or so knots in there not too worried about catastrophic failure. In such an event I have my steel toe boots to thank... hopefully... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 The downside is you can only use that one alignment, and there’s no way to use any of the other surfaces without untying the frapping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 A better hold down would be a small cable with a turn buckle to replace the frapping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 Or a welded or riveted strap that would loop over both anvil and stand and get wedged in place. Easy to knock out the wedge for repositioning, if you want to access a different face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustav Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Just made this one today. It's not beautiful by any means but the anvil isn't going anywhere! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted June 24, 2018 Share Posted June 24, 2018 Now that you have the anvil secured, your first project should be to make some nice spikes that will replace the hanger strapping you've got on there. Good practice and a nice way to dress up the whole thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyBiker Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 On 7/27/2017 at 5:18 PM, jlpservicesinc said: Nice stand,, I like the anvil also. Good job on the horn.. Are the timbers through drilled and bolted also? Is the anvil glued down? I didn't glue the anvil down. I did bolt it to the stand. Is gluing the normal thing to do? I gun blued the anvil and added a heavier chain, for weight & sound. Has more of a dead sound vs a ring now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 I don't know of anybody actually gluing an anvil down though some do bed the in silicon calking to help deaden the ring. I guess that might be gluing it down. I think screwing or bolting your's down should work nicely. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyBiker Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 I've returned to this thread for inspiration while dressing the surfaces of my new (1st actual / legit ) Anvil. While I'm anxious I am also wanting a stand that's visually interesting as well as fully functional . Im a woodworker & sign carver (by hobby) the blacksmithing aspect is for the purpose of not having to buy / order items I want . Rather I would be able to make what I need for a project , drawer pulls , cabinet door handles, gate hinges, curtain hold backs (the wife has her lists) vs buying / ordering stock Chinese made crap and adjusting my designs to fit the purportions of what's available. also I'd like to become proficient in making sign brackets for the signs I carve vs buying bland black painted stuff. So that's what's brought me to the dark side ! I'll admit to being sucked in to the historical aspect of this form of production . Much like carving, Blacksmithing is still so hands on & skill heavy that it calls to the creative person like a siren from Homers Odessey. I'm in, the bug has bitten. I feel like an info sponge, "Feed me Seymour" ! ***the surface restoration begins & the horns is there*** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 Well, I guess interesting to a wood carver lets my welded steel tripod anvil stand out eh? Carved cathedral anvil fashion would look nice. As a practical suggestion: if you cup the underside it will be much more stable than flat. A tripod is always stable, if the floor is level enough it doesn't tip over of course. A wood stand will make the anvil louder but there are any number of ways to damp the ring. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 Just made me think of a wooden carved anvil as an anvil stand. fully impractical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 I've seen carved anvil stands before including one where the anvil is held in the teeth of a mythological creature coming up out of the floor. May I suggest you look at the carvings of Sigurd and Regin forging the sword Gram that were on the medieval Stave Church at Hylestad Norway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyBiker Posted September 14, 2018 Share Posted September 14, 2018 I'm getting started but have a spinal injection scheduled today. Picked up some steel yesterday for the banding. I hope to get started drilling, bolting & gluing up the base on Saturday. Until then I'll just keep looking at all the eye candy on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado CJ Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 I am a new member here, still getting everything together to start forging. Yesterday I started in on an anvil stand, its going to look pretty much like your's. I bought 4 pressure treated 4x4x10 posts and cut them to get my anvil height up to 35" (I am 6'4"). I used construction adhesive and straps to hold it all together for the glue to dry over night. Today I used flat stock, screws and a little welding to band it all together. A bit of sanding and two coats of Danish oil and here's how it looks. I specifically built this for an anvil I am picking up tomorrow, a JHM Sharper 160 lb. anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 That'll work CJ. It's generally better to screw the banding together and not screw it to the blocks, this allows you to tighten or loosen the band as necessary. I like heating the bands in the oven and welding the join so it shrinks around the stand. However I used heavier steel to band the couple blocks I've done that to or wet weather will cause the bands to break as the block expands. When you quote a post please do NOT include all the photos. Iforge has members all around the world, many are on dial up and paying for bandwidth. Repeating the pictures from the previous post is a huge waste of bandwidth. I expect Admin will be doing some editing shortly make a habit of it and you might find yourself moderated. If you just highlight the part of a previous post you want to reference a tag will appear asking if you want to quote this. Click on it and it'll appear in the text window at the cursor. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado CJ Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Sorry about that. I am brand new to this site, most other sites allow for quoted replies. I tried to go back and edit out the photos, but the forum software doesn't allow me to edit to post, it states that too much time has past for the edit to go through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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